Tips for tether training?

G

GSD_Knot_Lover

Tourist
Does anyone have any tips on how to train a dog not to run to the end of the tether and basically clothesline himself?

I just recently picked up a dog from someone and he is not very well trained. I have training classes scheduled, but in the meantime, we are just working on the very basics like sit, lay down, etc. He is a Saint Bernard mix, a bit over a year old, and over 120 lbs. His previous owner had a fenced-in yard so he never had to be on a tether. The first time I tried as soon as I unclipped the leash he took off and almost hurt himself when he hit the end of the tether. I really don't want him to hurt himself so I've been taking him out on a leash now, but if it's raining hard or just bad weather I would like to be able to just clip him to the tether so he can do his business. He doesn't seem interested in doing his business in the yard either, only while we are on walks. Maybe that's because he wants to explore this new area? Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Does anyone have any tips on how to train a dog not to run to the end of the tether and basically clothesline himself?

I just recently picked up a dog from someone and he is not very well trained. I have training classes scheduled, but in the meantime, we are just working on the very basics like sit, lay down, etc. He is a Saint Bernard mix, a bit over a year old, and over 120 lbs. His previous owner had a fenced-in yard so he never had to be on a tether. The first time I tried as soon as I unclipped the leash he took off and almost hurt himself when he hit the end of the tether. I really don't want him to hurt himself so I've been taking him out on a leash now, but if it's raining hard or just bad weather I would like to be able to just clip him to the tether so he can do his business. He doesn't seem interested in doing his business in the yard either, only while we are on walks. Maybe that's because he wants to explore this new area? Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
The realistic chance of him doing damage to himself is pretty small, and frankly, pain is natures way of telling you "you done screwed up - don't do that again" - If he slams himself when he hits the end of the line a few times, he'll figure it out sooner or later (assuming he's not too stupid to make the connection)

If you're particularly worried that he'll actually do himself damage, put him on a line short enough that he can't "get up to full speed" before he hits the end, and gradually extend it to whatever the full length you want to give him happens to be.

All of the dogs I've dealt with that needed to be put on a chain (and as a side-note, be damned sure it IS a chain - I haven't met a dog yet that can't figure out "Hey, if I chew on this rope, I can be off into the big wide world!" - On the other hand, a dog stupid enough to break his teeth trying to chew through a chain is too stupid to keep in the first place) for whatever reason only needed a few times to figure out for themselves that it wasn't a good idea to hit the end when moving fast. A couple of them flipped themselves ass-over-teakettle 3-4 times before it sunk in, but eventually, they got the idea. Unless yours is a particularly brain-dead specimen (which can't be ruled out - like people, dogs come in varying degrees of "brainy") I expect he'll do the same.
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Does anyone have any tips on how to train a dog not to run to the end of the tether and basically clothesline himself?

I just recently picked up a dog from someone and he is not very well trained. I have training classes scheduled, but in the meantime, we are just working on the very basics like sit, lay down, etc. He is a Saint Bernard mix, a bit over a year old, and over 120 lbs. His previous owner had a fenced-in yard so he never had to be on a tether. The first time I tried as soon as I unclipped the leash he took off and almost hurt himself when he hit the end of the tether. I really don't want him to hurt himself so I've been taking him out on a leash now, but if it's raining hard or just bad weather I would like to be able to just clip him to the tether so he can do his business. He doesn't seem interested in doing his business in the yard either, only while we are on walks. Maybe that's because he wants to explore this new area? Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Maybe not tether him? A fenced in yard is convenient, but taking fido for walks gives more opportunities for building a positive relationship.
If you absolutely must tether him, I would work with him at the end of the tether when there's only a bit of slack left. I would get him close to the limit and slowly let him discover it's bounds gently while walking around the perimiter of where it can reach; let him learn where the limit of it is at leisure.
In some of my homes there was no yard whatsoever, so walking was our only option. In rainy weather I have found a good quality poncho to be preferable to an umbrella and one for the dog too.
 
egoldstein said:
Maybe not tether him? A fenced in yard is convenient, but taking fido for walks gives more opportunities for building a positive relationship.
Click to expand...
This. 12 years I had my boy. With the exception of the time I had a breakin and they let him out, and the handful of times I kenneled him, every single time he was outside I was there with him on leash. Rain or shine, 100 degrees or 20 below, it's part of having a dog.
 
originalnamehere said:
Yeah, because having your dog escape and get hit by a car is great. A dog can go under, over, or even chew through a fence.
Click to expand...

I was not implying that the dog should be turned out unrestrained into a non-fenced yard, but rather that instead of using a tether he be walked. I'm not a fan of turning dogs out into fenced yards either, but if the fence is good and the dog understands it is to be respected, it might not be the worst, but not what I would do. When my dogs are out, I am out; I trust my dogs to be good, but they are dogs and cannot recognize some dangers so they need to be watched, plus I tend to use that time for exercise and training.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
LuvelyLeda said:
Mine doesn't do that, and he hangs out in our backyard all the time. I don't have any experience with breeds other than mine so maybe I can't say much, but it might be a sign that he's just really bored, or maybe he isn't getting enough attention from you and he's getting antsy to get out and socialize with someone else. There could also be something bothering him outside your yard that he feels the need to take care of. Digging is a natural behavior and some dogs just like to do that, but I'd be worried if he was doing it to try and escape.
Click to expand...
I never said my dogs are escaping lol. But, I live in a place where I am constantly returning peoples' escaped dogs.
 
originalnamehere said:
I don't trust high drive hunting dogs not to go after the first coon or yote they see on the other side of a fence, sorry.
Click to expand...

Depends on the dog. I've had hunting breeds stand and watch, knowing they aren't allowed to chase.....without a fence or even leash, but I understand that I put a lot more time into training and proofing my dogs than most do.

There are other solutions for diggers and climbers, but I think a simple walk on a leash is easier and more beneficial.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
egoldstein said:
Depends on the dog. I've had hunting breeds stand and watch, knowing they aren't allowed to chase.....without a fence or even leash, but I understand that I put a lot more time into training and proofing my dogs than most do.

There are other solutions for diggers and climbers, but I think a simple walk on a leash is easier and more beneficial.
Click to expand...
Guessing you don't work lurchers.
 
UR20Z said:
The realistic chance of him doing damage to himself is pretty small, and frankly, pain is natures way of telling you "you done screwed up - don't do that again" - If he slams himself when he hits the end of the line a few times, he'll figure it out sooner or later (assuming he's not too stupid to make the connection)

If you're particularly worried that he'll actually do himself damage, put him on a line short enough that he can't "get up to full speed" before he hits the end, and gradually extend it to whatever the full length you want to give him happens to be.

All of the dogs I've dealt with that needed to be put on a chain (and as a side-note, be damned sure it IS a chain - I haven't met a dog yet that can't figure out "Hey, if I chew on this rope, I can be off into the big wide world!" - On the other hand, a dog stupid enough to break his teeth trying to chew through a chain is too stupid to keep in the first place) for whatever reason only needed a few times to figure out for themselves that it wasn't a good idea to hit the end when moving fast. A couple of them flipped themselves ass-over-teakettle 3-4 times before it sunk in, but eventually, they got the idea. Unless yours is a particularly brain-dead specimen (which can't be ruled out - like people, dogs come in varying degrees of "brainy") I expect he'll do the same.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info. I was just super worried about him hurting his neck. I think he already learned from the first time, as the last time I clipped him to the tether after our walk he took it way easier. I kinda used it like a leash and slowly let out more line as he went. As for the tether itself, it's not a chain, but that plastic-coated steel cable. Rated for 250lb.
 
egoldstein said:
Maybe not tether him? A fenced in yard is convenient, but taking fido for walks gives more opportunities for building a positive relationship.
If you absolutely must tether him, I would work with him at the end of the tether when there's only a bit of slack left. I would get him close to the limit and slowly let him discover it's bounds gently while walking around the perimiter of where it can reach; let him learn where the limit of it is at leisure.
In some of my homes there was no yard whatsoever, so walking was our only option. In rainy weather I have found a good quality poncho to be preferable to an umbrella and one for the dog too.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the tip. I don't mind taking him out for walks, it's nice to actually see what's around here lol, but it is a nice option to have. Also nice so I can let him play around the yard without having to keep him on the 6 foot leash.
 
dartel said:
To quote the simpsons, "take the dog for a walk, he's a furry little fitness machine".
Click to expand...
I don't know about fitness machine lol. He's pretty lazy most of the time. Likes to just lounge around and act like a 120+ lb lap dog. Probably taking after the St. Bernard half, but he does like the walks. I have to almost jog to keep up with his casual stroll lol. I do try to take him out often and wear him out though. Just have to be careful right now as it is pretty hot in the afternoon and I can tell he's slowing down after just a few blocks. I'll even offer water but he doesn't seem interested till we get back home. When it's cool in the morning and evening he has a lot more energy, so we usually go for longer.
 
egoldstein said:
Maybe not tether him? A fenced in yard is convenient, but taking fido for walks gives more opportunities for building a positive relationship.
If you absolutely must tether him, I would work with him at the end of the tether when there's only a bit of slack left. I would get him close to the limit and slowly let him discover it's bounds gently while walking around the perimiter of where it can reach; let him learn where the limit of it is at leisure.
In some of my homes there was no yard whatsoever, so walking was our only option. In rainy weather I have found a good quality poncho to be preferable to an umbrella and one for the dog too.
Click to expand...
I would be attracted by a larger breed, but I have no experience and I don't dare to do it myself, I would be happy for some advice
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Does anyone have any tips on how to train a dog not to run to the end of the tether and basically clothesline himself?

I just recently picked up a dog from someone and he is not very well trained. I have training classes scheduled, but in the meantime, we are just working on the very basics like sit, lay down, etc. He is a Saint Bernard mix, a bit over a year old, and over 120 lbs. His previous owner had a fenced-in yard so he never had to be on a tether. The first time I tried as soon as I unclipped the leash he took off and almost hurt himself when he hit the end of the tether. I really don't want him to hurt himself so I've been taking him out on a leash now, but if it's raining hard or just bad weather I would like to be able to just clip him to the tether so he can do his business. He doesn't seem interested in doing his business in the yard either, only while we are on walks. Maybe that's because he wants to explore this new area? Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Best tip I've found is actually a lack of reinforcement.

If they're tugging, stop.

Do not move an inch until he stops and starts searching with a reasonable slack. Don't speak, don't tell him anything. Just sit there and stare into space or look at your phone. May take 10-15 mins if he's stubborn to get him to do it once. Never met a dog that didn't get the message after a few days. Most get it within a single 30-45 min walk.

Reinforcement isn't necessary.

Sorta like nobody has to teach you that what goes up comes back down. He'll learn "When I tug at the leash, we stop."

Make it a law in his brain, and he'll stick to it without realizing it.

Some dogs tend to be stubborn about rules, but if you approach it as it's not your rule, they won't be as likely to resist just as they don't try and fight the temperature outside. The key is to be non-reactive.
 
Last edited:
Yaboiwut said:
Best tip I've found is actually a lack of reinforcement.

If they're tugging, stop.
Click to expand...

That is good advice, but also rewarding desirable behavior helps speed the process and reduces frustration for the dog.
If I say "No" to something you're doing, you have little context to figure out what's right, so you might start trying other things; however, if I add in signalling when you're doing it right, things tend to go smoother because you have guidance on what is wanted and get feedback to help shape it.
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Does anyone have any tips on how to train a dog not to run to the end of the tether and basically clothesline himself?

I just recently picked up a dog from someone and he is not very well trained. I have training classes scheduled, but in the meantime, we are just working on the very basics like sit, lay down, etc. He is a Saint Bernard mix, a bit over a year old, and over 120 lbs. His previous owner had a fenced-in yard so he never had to be on a tether. The first time I tried as soon as I unclipped the leash he took off and almost hurt himself when he hit the end of the tether. I really don't want him to hurt himself so I've been taking him out on a leash now, but if it's raining hard or just bad weather I would like to be able to just clip him to the tether so he can do his business. He doesn't seem interested in doing his business in the yard either, only while we are on walks. Maybe that's because he wants to explore this new area? Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Step 1: Take 1 foot of tether, fold up, attach rubber cord to it, now you have a shock absorber.
 

Attachments

  • New Bitmap Image.jpg
    New Bitmap Image.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 9
Yaboiwut said:
Best tip I've found is actually a lack of reinforcement.

If they're tugging, stop.

Do not move an inch until he stops and starts searching with a reasonable slack. Don't speak, don't tell him anything. Just sit there and stare into space or look at your phone. May take 10-15 mins if he's stubborn to get him to do it once. Never met a dog that didn't get the message after a few days. Most get it within a single 30-45 min walk.

Reinforcement isn't necessary.

Sorta like nobody has to teach you that what goes up comes back down. He'll learn "When I tug at the leash, we stop."

Make it a law in his brain, and he'll stick to it without realizing it.

Some dogs tend to be stubborn about rules, but if you approach it as it's not your rule, they won't be as likely to resist just as they don't try and fight the temperature outside. The key is to be non-reactive.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice. I was asking more about like a tether for the yard, but this has definitely helped with going on walks. He would pull so hard and so much on the leash that he was choking himself and my arm would hurt after like 10-15 minutes. We are still working on it, but he is much better about pulling on the leash now.
 
egoldstein said:
That is good advice, but also rewarding desirable behavior helps speed the process and reduces frustration for the dog.
If I say "No" to something you're doing, you have little context to figure out what's right, so you might start trying other things; however, if I add in signalling when you're doing it right, things tend to go smoother because you have guidance on what is wanted and get feedback to help shape it.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the tip. I've been trying both of your advice and it is working for the most part, but every time I praise/reward him he starts tugging again. It's only been about a week, so maybe he just needs more time at it.
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Thank you for the tip. I have some bungee cords lying around. Maybe I can just use those. Do you think hose clamps would be good enough to secure them?
Click to expand...
depends what you use, I use light chain, and shackles, as large males get to stay out side when the girls are in heat.
 
GSD_Knot_Lover said:
Thank you for the tip. I've been trying both of your advice and it is working for the most part, but every time I praise/reward him he starts tugging again. It's only been about a week, so maybe he just needs more time at it.
Click to expand...

Are you rewarding him when he is tugging? If so, only reward when he isn't, perhaps try getting him to sit first. In it's most basic form, whatever the dog (horse, fish, human) is doing at the moment they get a reward, will increase in frequency. Since it is easier to train an incompatible behavior than it is to stop an unwanted one, rewarding him for doing something other than being at the end of the lead and withholding rewards while he's doing what you don't want as @Yaboiwut first suggested. This is foundational behavior tech and will work when applied, keep at it.
It is hard to guess who knows what in regard to behavior modification, but if a person wants to learn how to shape behavior effectively, I highly recommend Karen Pryor's "Don't Shoot the Dog".
 
egoldstein said:
Are you rewarding him when he is tugging? If so, only reward when he isn't, perhaps try getting him to sit first. In it's most basic form, whatever the dog (horse, fish, human) is doing at the moment they get a reward, will increase in frequency. Since it is easier to train an incompatible behavior than it is to stop an unwanted one, rewarding him for doing something other than being at the end of the lead and withholding rewards while he's doing what you don't want as @Yaboiwut first suggested. This is foundational behavior tech and will work when applied, keep at it.
It is hard to guess who knows what in regard to behavior modification, but if a person wants to learn how to shape behavior effectively, I highly recommend Karen Pryor's "Don't Shoot the Dog".
Click to expand...
No, I reward him when he stops tugging, but as soon as I say good boy or something he tries to go. I will try to get him to sit in the future, but we are still working on that. He really only sits if he knows I have treats at the moment. I have heard that book recommended a few times. I will look into that.
 
Another thing I might try would be if he strained at the tether when I approached, I'd try stopping and ignoring him until he's not pulling.
I would start from as far away as I could to keep his excitement down and approach only when he's not pulling. It takes a lot of patience when doing this and you have to do it consistently for it to be most effective since disregarding it reinforces the behavior you don't want and makes it more resilient.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top