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The ultimate guide: How to make love to big cats
This guide was written and copyrighted by TheTiger. This guide was originally posted on TheTigers-den.com.
When re-posting this article on your website, please keep the entire article intact, including this header and contacting details. Thank you.
Comments, notices, questions and hate mail may be send to: [EMAIL REMOVED - USE THE PM SYSTEM].
Version: 1.0
Revision History:
Version 1.0 – Original Release
Content
1. Welcome and Intro
2. How this guide came to be
3. Feedback
4. Warning & Disclaimer
5. Other Guides
6. Species
7. Is it possible to have sex with a big cat?
8. Access to big cats
9. Preparing for an experience…
10. The start of a beautiful friendship
11. Two months old
12. Six months old
13. Sexual Comfort
14. Growing… Growing… Growing…
15. Staying in control
16. The waiting game
17. Oral Sex – Receiving
18. Oral Sex – Giving
--18.1. Giving – Male Cats
--18.2. Giving – Female Cats
19. Sexual Maturity
20. Sexual Intercourse – General
--20.1. Male Human / Female Cat (Giving)
--20.2. Male Cat / Male or Female Human (Receiving)
--20.3. Male Human / Male or Female Cat (Giving Anal)
21. After Word
1. Welcome and Intro
In a few minutes we will start learning the interesting and fascinating world of big cats and how to get them to be sexually active with a human being. But before we dive into that, I want to take some time out to get some stuff out of the way. Make sure you read everything because it is all equally important.
First off, I want to take some time out to explain the difference between zoophilia and bestiality, as there are many different stories about it.
Zoophilia in short means the love, passion and care for an animal, usually love on the same level as an average person would feel for a human partner. It doesn’t always have to involve sex; some people have a real relationship with their animal, or even get married with their animal, without a sexual relation ever being there.
Then there is bestiality; this is basically the sexual side of zoophilia. Unlike zoophilia, however, bestiality comes in many different forms. The one you will usually find around the internet is the pornographic form - Girls being f***** by dogs, horses and the like, usually for commercial purposes. This kind of bestiality is often paired with downright animal abuse, as the larger animals are often drugged and prepared in other cruel ways for the sexual acts.
There is also the loving side of bestiality however, which is one not many people seem to know. Having sex with an animal that you love, and which loves you back is not at all bad; It’s a little out of the ordinary at the most.
Just keep in mind that having sex with animals is not by definition bad and is not by definition animal abuse. This guide will explain in detail how to have sex with big cats, but this guide will at all times put the welfare of the animal above everything else.
If you are going to read this guide without having any knowledge of what it means to be a zoophile – for whatever reason you might do so - I ask you to at least gather some knowledge about the subject first before jumping to conclusions about me, or zoophilia as a whole.
Also, this guide is written with the use of ‘sexual training’, meaning you basically train the animal to have sex with human beings. This is a very grey area, even for a lot of zoophiles, as it is often believed that training an animal to have sex with a human is abusing it’s ‘low intelligence’. I for one don’t completely agree with this, as you can’t force an animal to do something no matter how good you train it, especially not a big cat. But I will let everyone have their own view on that matter, as long as you realize that never in this guide I will tell you to force anything on the animal. If you follow this guide correctly, the animal will be doing everything out of free will, and pressure will never be involved.
2. How this guide came to be
I have had a love for cats in general for about my entire life, but my love and sexual attraction to tigers started developing when I was around 11 years of age. The same as with many zoophiles, at first I thought I was strange and weird or sick until I learned there were many more people like me. In the course of time I accepted my sexual preference as I met other people who were sexually attracted to big cats and slowly the topic of having sex with big cats became as normal as talking about having sex with a hot girl.
Many often wonder if it’s possible to have sex with a big cat, given the killer instinct these animals carry with them.
There is a guide over at zoophilia.net instructing on how to approach a big cat to have sex with it, but it was so incomplete that I decided to write up my own guide, using the knowledge I have about these wonderful animals to a great advantage.
Because I have been so fond of cats all my live, I know a lot about them; big cats, with tigers in particular, rank very high on my knowledge list and I dare to say I have enough knowledge about these animals to call myself at least a semi-expert in their behaviour. With that I started writing on this guide, in the first place for myself, as there will be a day where I want to test this all out, but also for anyone who has the will and means to give it a try but is looking for a good foundation to start on.
3. Feedback
I would like to ask anyone who is going to make use of this guide to keep me up to speed on your progress because I’m realy interested in how this will turn out for others. You can mail me with your experiences from this guide, as well as questions you might have about a certain part, to [EMAIL REMOVED - USE THE PM SYSTEM].
4. Warning & Disclaimer
The use of this guide is completely at your own risk. Please keep in mind that these are still (semi-)wild animals you will be working with and that the chances for injury or death are quite real. I have written this guide with the safety of the user in mind but the risk will always be present. I cannot be held responsible for your injuries or possible death!
All species of big cats should be handled with extreme caution, and their behaviour must never be taken for granted.
In addition, please keep in mind that there are no existing stories or reports about anyone ever having (attempted) sex with a big cat. Therefore this guide is based completely on theory and even though I know a lot about these animals I am not to proud to say that there are things I don’t know. Therefore not all info in this guide will be 100% accurate. Improvisation from your part WILL be required at certain points.
The chance of injury or even death is very real when being in direct contact with a big cat!
5. Other Guides
To this day I have only seen one other guide to having sex with big cats, and it’s located at zoophile.net. I absolutely urge anyone reading this, to NOT follow that guide. It is very inaccurate, incomplete and attempting to follow the instructions in that guide WILL get you killed without a doubt. I’m sure the author of the guide in question meant well, but you simply can’t explain how to have a sexual relation with a big cat in only 2 paragraphs. I just wanted that to be clear before moving on.
6. Species
Even though this guide can, in theory, be used with any kind of big cat, it has been written for use with only certain species. These being:
- Liger
- Siberian Tiger
- Bengal Tiger
- Sumatran Tiger
- African Lion
- Asiatic Lion
- Tigon
- Mountain Lion (Puma)
As said, this guide can be used with other big cat species as well. But I recommend against this for the following reasons:
Leopards & Jaguars (Incl. all sub species) - Leopards and Jaguars are the most vicious and homicidal species in the big cat family. Even if it has been raised from day one, the odds of these animals turning against you and killing you are almost three times higher then with any of the other species. This is a general statement and can of course vary from animal to animal.
Cheetahs – While Cheetah’s are technically part of the Big Cat family, they belong in a different branch. They also have a different behavioural pattern and slightly different body built. Therefore some parts in this guide may not be accurate for the cheetah.
Now, with all the formalities and warnings out of the way, let’s get started. Please note that I wrote this guide using my knowledge of tigers as a foundation. General behavior can be different for each species and even the behaviour of a tiger is different from animal to animal. For that reason it is good to treat this guide as just that; A guide, a foundation for your own experimentation. Almost every situation described in this guide will call for some improvisation from your side to match your animal’s behaviour. For that reason, I expect anyone following this guide to have basic knowledge about big cats. Do NOT attempt to use this guide if you know nothing about big cats and have no idea what you’re doing!
You can use this guide on your own, but for safety purposes it’s better to use this guide with a second person present.
7. Is it possible to have sex with big cats?
The main question, is it at all possible to have sex with a wild animal like a big cat? At first glance you would be tempted to say that a big cat is a dangerous wild animal which will kill you the second you step into its cage. Anyone studying these animals however, would know that big cats are never always mindless killing machines. Big cats can be very affectionate to whoever is taking care of them. They know who is bringing them food every day, who keeps their cages clean and who entertains them and when a normal caretaker relationship is expanded to a more direct one, where the animal and the caretaker are in direct contact, that affection can only grow. When handled right, big cats can become very friendly live partners, which will actually be willing to have sex with you. All you have to do is teach them how.
But that’s all theory; fact is that there are no reports at all of a human being having a sexual relationship with a big cat. There have been reports and pictures of people masturbating big cats such as lions. I myself have had the privilege of masturbating a tigress; but actions often don’t go much further then that.
The only story that I know is from Mable Stark - She was and still is known as one of the best big cat trainers the world has ever known. The story has it, that she had such a good relation with her tigers that they occasionally mounted her. This happened both in private, but also during shows.
In the book “The last confessions of Mabel Stark”, this subject is briefly discussed. It is said that after being mounted by her tiger Rajah during shows a few times, she changed her all black outfit to an all white outfit, to conceal the white semen from the crowds. From a distance (unless you knew what to look for) it looked just like the wrestling match that was promised.
Next to the alleged sexual relation Mabel had with her tigers, no reports or stories have ever been shared.
But in theory it should be perfectly possible to have a sexual relation with a tiger, or any other kind of big cat for that matter. When a big cat fully trusts you, it will never attack you without a reason. But more important, if you manage to win the full trust of a big cat in such a way it allows you to play with his/her privates, getting him/her to trust you enough to have a sexual relation with him/her is not to big of a step. So long as you keep in mind that an animal's definition of trust isn’t necessarily the same as the human definition. Never take your relation with your animal for granted.
To answer the initial question; is it, in theory, possible to have sex with a big cat without drugging or abusing it? Yes, it is.
8. Access to big cats
Use of this guide naturally requires that you have access to big cats. However, we do seriously NOT recommend 'fence hopping'. Fence hopping means entering/breaking into other people's property to have sexual intercourse with their animals. The term fence hopping is mostly used when entering a field of horses belonging to someone else to have sexual intercourse with them.
Of course in this case, we are not talking about horses; we are talking about animals which can be extremely dangerous not only to you, but also to people living around the property. Therefore do not attempt to break into a zoo or a sanctuary with the idea to attempt sex with a tiger or any other big cat. I guarantee it will get you and in turn also the animal in question KILLED.
Zoos and sanctuaries usually have tight security, so if you're not killed you will be caught.
With that said, you will understand that this guide is only useable for those who actually own a big cat, either as the owner of a sanctuary or privately. If you work at a zoo, you're out of luck. Not only do you not actually own the animals, zoo animals are usually kept wild for show and can therefore be extremely dangerous to humans.
Sanctuary employees and private owners could make use of this guide, but do note that we do not recommend attempting anything sexual with the animals if you don't own them. If you meet the requirements the rest of the guide points out, you can likely do it. But if you are caught doing this by the owner, know that you will be in deep, deep trouble.
9. Preparing for an experience from heaven, or a one way ticket to hell?
First off, let me tell you right now how long it will take to complete this training with a big cat. From start to finish, if you follow this guide correctly, it will take 3 to 4 years before you actually have sexual intercourse with a big cat. However after this you can continue to have sex with him/her for all the years to come after that without any real need for more training.
If you were ever under the assumption you could train a big cat to have sex with you in a few hours, you are deadly mistaking and attempting to do this will most likely get you killed.
Understanding why it takes such a long time is maybe the biggest part in the entire guide. Biggest part of the relation between you and an animal are created in the first two years of the animal’s life and you will need to know your future sex partner from the very beginning of his/her life. This will increase your chances a lot and make any training, sexual or not, a lot easier.
If you feel that the relation with an already adult animal you own is already good enough then you can attempt skipping the chapters about the cub training and jump right to the chapter you want. Your animal will have missed a lot of preparation however and it cannot be guaranteed he/she will accept any sexual advances from you in the first place.
Before we can do anything you obviously need the cub we will be training. Whether you want to breed for this purpose or let nature take its course and see what happens is up to you and your morals. When you have a pregnant tigress, make the preparations for the cub’s birth and when the big day comes we can move on.
10. The start of a beautiful friendship
After the cub is born, don't go be all loving and pull the little critter away from its mom just after its birth. This can both be traumatic for the cub, as can it completely ruin the relationship you have with the mother. The mother will not be pleased if you take her cub away this early after birth, so to avoid both these problems, give mother and cub some time with each other and wait until both are ready to be separated for small amounts of time. Since cubs are born with their eyes closed and only open then after a week or so, wait at least one month before actually getting the cub close and personal with you and spend frequent time with them on a daily basis in the meantime.
This is probably a good time to point out that when you have cubs, you should not consider them living objects you will eventually have sex with. When taking care for and raising the cubs, consider them as your own little furry pets, a life friend and the cutest thing alive. Just as you would consider any other pet you had in the past. The sexual side of things won't even show in a year or two, maybe even three. So until then, take care of your little furry friends without even thinking of that.
Waiting at least two months for personal contact is the minimum (except for the medical shots and other essential stuff you might have to take them out for) but six months is preferred. Make sure that you hang out with them plentiful in the mean time. Spend at least a couple of hours with them every single day, but keep in mind that you have more souls to think about then just the cubs. With the new strain of young ones, the mother might want some time for herself every now and then, so be a nice chap and let her have it when you notice her getting annoyed by your presence. A fun and educational thing to do, is making a video diary. Station a video camera somewhere around the exhibit, and make daily recordings of the cubs as they spend their first two months. This is both fun to watch back in a few years time, and it is useful to big cat behaviour study, be it personal or for third parties.
11. Two months old
Okay, so your cubs are now two months old and can halfway take care of themselves. Their eyes are now open and their vision is now clear. Now they will be able to identify you not only by smell, but also by vision.
Before you do anything else, know that two months is the absolute minimum. If you want to keep the risk of having any complications to minimum, wait until they are at least six months old. By this time, the mother will stop nursing them in any case and you won’t have to worry about her rejecting them. It’s your judgement. It’s understandable that you want to start interacting with your cubs as fast as possible, but never forget that their welfare goes first, your desires come way second.
If you are going to play it safe you can skip the next bit if you want, and read on at ‘Six months old’.
Now, if you insist on starting interaction at the two month mark, you should realize a few things. I don’t recommend it for various reasons. First of all, the cub is very vulnerable; it still has a very fragile body. Secondly, this early on the mother will identify her own cubs by her own scent. Taking them out of the cage and in direct contact with yourself will put your scent on them and the mother is likely to reject the cubs for any future nursing if she can no longer detect her own scent. You can of course nurse the cubs yourself which in turn will give you even more interaction with them, but it is in the cub’s best interest if he/she is nursed by its mother.
When you want to take the cub out of the cage for the first time, separate it from the mother using a second cage. Make sure there are open bars between the two cages so the mother can still see how her cub is doing. Remember that the mother will at all times decide whether or not you are allowed near the cub. Keep a close eye on her behaviour. You can now enter the cage holding the cub and SLOWLY advance to it. While doing this, keep a very close eye on the mother. If she starts to become wild, angry or nervous, back off from the cage and reunite her with her cub. If she does react fierce, then just leave them be and come back the next day and try again. Keep trying once a day until the mother allows you to be near the cub.
Note: It can happen that the mother will not allow you near the cub at all. This will depend, among other things, on your relationship with the mother. The better the relation, the better she will trust you to be near her cubs.
When you get near, kneel down next to the cub and carefully extend your arm to pet it softly. The cubs are still young and still very little. So be careful, also keep watching the mother to see how much she will allow.
Notch up the interaction with the cub slowly, day by day. Start out with some very gentle petting, and very slowly trough the course of weeks work your way up to where you can pick the cub up and have it on your lap. Never, while the cub is this young, take it out of the cage and out of the mother’s sight. This can be traumatic for the cub, and can make the mother be very mad at you.
Keep interacting with the cub, paying attention to the mother and building relation with both, until the cub is six months old.
12. Six months old
Around the six month mark, the mother will usually stop nursing the cubs and they will be able to eat and digest solid foods such as small pieces of meat. This does not mean the mother doesn’t take further care of them, however. She will keep looking out for them and protecting them for another year or so, but the cubs will no longer depend on her for their food. They now depend on you. So make sure you take proper care for them.
By now the playfulness of the cubs should surface and if you already started interaction with them at the two month mark, you might just become their playing friend whenever you're around. Have some fun with them, but don’t forget that for now you are still stronger then they are. They will be stronger then you in a few months, but for now play carefully.
Here is where it gets a tad more fun for you. If you want, you can now take one cub along with you for short periods of time. The goal here is to make the cub get trusted with you by itself, and be comfortable with you without the protection of the mother being present. Don’t take multiple cubs at the same time and never take them with you if either the mother or the cub shows clearly that it doesn’t want you to.
Fair warning; Tigers can't exactly be house broken like dogs can. Especially when their young, be prepared to clean up a bit after them and preferably don't take them inside your house or anything like that.
Make sure you have a special room where you can perform all future training and – when the training is complete – to have sex. Make sure you have privacy and make sure to have the following items present in the room: blankets, a chair, a lockable door, a phone, a first aid kit and if you really don’t want to take any chances with the animal you could choose to have a dart gun with a sedation dart in case things get out of hand at some point. Put the emergency number on speed dial on the phone in case you need it quickly. If available, it would be good to have a sink with some anti-bacterial soap standing by as well. But it isn’t a needed requirement as you can just walk to a nearby sink if you don’t have one in the room.
Let’s move on. When you have the cub alone in the room, sit down on the chair and take it on your lap. Let it wander around a bit and pet it a bit while it does so. If the cub wants to get off your lap, carefully put it back on the ground. Don't try to hang on to it and force it to stay there. That will only make any future bonding harder.
Keep taking the cub separate a few minutes a day. Always take it to the same place and don't do anything extremely out of the ordinary. After a while when it starts to get trusted and comfortable with you, you can extend the time. Keep the cub with you a few minutes longer and slowly build up the time. Add about a minute and a half to the interaction every second day until you can keep the cub with you for 20 minutes. Don't forget to see how the mother reacts to the absence of her cub. If she doesn't like it, notch the time down a bit until she settles down and try going up again. Getting to the 20 minute mark can take as little as two weeks, but can just as easy take two months. It depends on the cub, the mother and the relation you have with both.
13. Sexual Comfort
When you eventually reach the 20 minute mark with success (the cub is comfortable on your lap and the mother is calm) you can start extending your interaction. Petting the cub is important because it lets the animal get used to you touching him/her. But to eventually have sex with this animal in a few years, it will have to be comfortable with you touching everywhere, including the genitals.
When you have the animal on your lap, take your hands of it to make sure it's comfortable and has no intent of wanting to move anywhere else. When it's comfy, start petting it softly over the head. Carefully extend your petting strokes to the neck and to the full length of the back until you are petting it from the head to the base of the tail. Keep doing this for a bit and see how your cub reacts to it. Since you have been petting the cub for quite some time now, it should be fine with it, but if it isn't comfortable with the petting for whatever reason, stop and try again tomorrow.
When the cub likes the petting, keep it up for a small while and then extend your petting strokes to the tip of the tail. See how the cub likes it, and act accordingly if it gets uncomfortable.
Keep this up for a small while again then return the cub to its cage. The next day you go a step further. Again stroke the cub from head to tail, but this time when your hand reaches the tail, close your hand around it and let it slide trough, don't pull it!
Note: Doing this can be slightly arousing to some people. The second you start feeling aroused, stop what you're doing and return the cub to the cage. Being aroused can in some cases blur your ability to think straight because all you can think about is sex, which might result in doing stuff to/with the cub you might regret. Getting a 'blur' while being aroused is a perfectly normal reaction. Some have it, some don't. But you don't want to get a 'blur' when that cub is around. So in its best interest, return it to its cage when you start getting aroused, masturbate somewhere if you want, and then try again. Make sure to wash your hands after you're done though as scent can play a large part in the training.
Keep sliding the cubs tail trough your hand for the next three to four sessions you have with the cub. Remember that I recommend only one session each day, so that would make four days.
After those four days, things will get a little (just a little) more 'fun'. Start out by stroking the cub and sliding its tail trough your hands again a few times. Make another stroke from head to tail, but this time when you reach the base of the tail, go past it and briefly stroke the cub over his/her genitals. Don't grab the penis or the balls. Don't try to stimulate the vagina with a finger. Just stroke over the genitals with a flat hand like you petted the rest of the body. Don't pay any special attention to the genitals either in terms of keeping your hand down there tad longer. The strokes need to be fluid and constant without interruptions.
Doing this is merely meant for the cub to get comfortable with you touching his/her genitals. The fact remains that the cub is still way too young to even be thinking about reproducing so do not go any further then stroking.
Note: Again, if you feel you are getting aroused, return the cub to the cage.
14. Growing… growing… and growing…
By the time you made it this far, your cub will probably have reached the age of at least eleven months, depending on how much time it took for the cub to get comfortable with you. I'm going to assume the cub is around one year old right now. It will by now barely be able to fit on your lap, so to save you a pair of broken legs lets not do that any more.
When you made it this far, you have successfully laid a foundation for a 'sex training'. If your cub is already past the age of one and still isn't comfortable with you touching its genitals, don't worry. It will be another few years before the animal is ready to have sex anyway, so you have plenty of time to get it right. Once the animal is comfortable (or even enjoying) you touching its genitals, you can move on.
When the animal has had its first birthday, you can start worrying a little less about the mothers influence. She will be a lot less protective over the cub, but will still look out for it from time to time. If you did everything correct and you kept the mother on your good side, everything should be fine and you won't have to worry about her at all anymore.
Keep having your daily sessions with the animal. You can expand the time little by little if you want, or break up the sessions into two parts a day. Just make sure you have enough time left to do other work such as feeding and cleaning. The training of the animal should never become your first priority. Your first priority should be taking good care of them. Second priority should be taking good care of yourself and training the cub to have sex with you can then be a third priority.
Now, you have at least two more years to go before your trainee is ready to 'graduate'. So let’s make the meantime useful and teach the cub as many cool tricks as we can.
For the next six months you will thicken the bond you have with your animal. Keep stroking the animal's privates in the daily sessions, but don't restrict yourself to sitting down anymore. Get up and move around. Play around with your cub a bit, wrestle, chase, etc.
Note: Be careful though, your cub is growing fast and will continue to do so for the next two years. He will soon become (or already is) a lot stronger then you. Always make good judgements about the emotions of your animal and make sure you can play with him in a save way. A wrestle match with a tiger can end very bloody when done at the wrong time.
While playing with your cub, make an occasional stroke over its genitals. By now you can also start spending a bit more time on them. Never keep your hand back there for more then a few seconds though.
Keep this up until the animal reaches the age of 1 year and 6 months. Around this age you might start to notice that your animal is in fact enjoying being stroked down there. This doesn't mean the animal is sexually mature, mind you. It's just starting to enjoy the feeling.
This is where you can go up a level. Keep doing your daily sessions as you have been doing them for the past six months, but now spend one session a week specifically on stimulating that nice feeling your animal has been having. Remember that stimulation is something different then masturbation… masturbation is for when the animal is sexually mature.
In case of male cats, stroke your hand over the genitals like you normally would, but this time keep your hand in place longer then normally and see how your animal reacts. When he likes what you are doing, use the back of two fingers to stroke the length of his penis. Keep stroking up and down from his balls to the tip of his penis softly and slowly. Occasionally stroke his balls as well. Do not attempt to pull the sheath back, as your animal might not be ready for that just yet and it could cause permanent damage to the penis as the sheath and penis are still joined together for now.
In case of female cats, stroke your hand over the genitals like you normally would, but this time keep your hand in place longer then normally and see how your animal reacts. When she is enjoying your presence back there, use a finger to carefully massage her vagina; you could choose to use some spit to smoothen things up a bit. Keep massaging her vagina, but do not shove your finger inside. She is not mentally and not physically ready for that at this age.
While you are stimulating either gender, there is a third option you may want to try. If you want to try giving your cats anal intercourse in the future, then now is the time to start getting them used to it. Do note that cats (or any animal for that matter) are very unlikely to accept anal sex or stimulation, but it can never hurt to see how they will react to it. Start by wetting all fingers but your thumb with spit. You can choose to use a little bit of lube as well if your mouth starts to feel dehydrated. Now use one finger to start out with and carefully massage the cat's anus. If he/she doesn't appear to shy away from that just yet, you can keep adding some fingers to the massaging until you're using all four. Do NOT enter a finger inside. Doing that might just give the animal reason enough to pull away and slap you silly.
Anal stimulation should be handled extremely careful, as animals don't usually use that part of their body for sexual purposes, meaning they will actually have to be taught that. And of course they will need to like it in the first place.
Don't enter anything in either the vagina or the anus and also refrain from pulling back a male cat's sheath, the animal is not ready for this and your sexual relation with the animal might not be tight enough yet to permit this. Entering fingers and the like should only be done when the animal has reached sexual maturity. I will cover that part once we get to it.
Note: Make sure your hands and fingers are firmly cleaned with anti bacterial soap when actively stimulating any of the genitals. Infections can be lethal to the animal and if you're down on your luck your vet might start asking you very uncomfortable questions.
In addition, when stimulating the anus, never start stimulating the vagina directly after that. Always approach the vagina with clean hands!
15. Staying in control
Merely stimulating a big cat is probably enough to get you aroused. You could stop doing what you're doing when you start feeling aroused, but from here it will be as much of training for yourself as much as it will be for the animal. If you are serious about wanting to make love to a big cat, you need to be able to fully control yourself when horny. It's more important then you might think, because failure to do so might get you killed one day.
If you're not completely sure if you have what it takes to control yourself when your horny, try writing down the things you want to get done and putting the paper in a spot where you can see it. For example:
- Stroke and pet
- Massage vagina
- DO NOT ENTER A FINGER!
This might sound extreme, but you can seriously lose the ability to think clearly when you're extremely horny. And I can guarantee you that if you are stroking your fingers over a tigress's vagina; you'll become extremely horny in an instant.
Another (much more easier and pleasing) way to avoid losing control is masturbating before you go to stimulate the animal, although this does not teach you to stay in control when you do get horny. It simply eliminates the problem, which is good for now, but is not always as reliable. Make sure to wash your hands when you do this though.
16. The waiting game
From this point onward, it will be another long wait until you can take the lessons up a level. Keep doing the daily sessions and the one special weekly session with the animal where you actively stimulate the genitals. Continue this for a whole year. No matter how eager you are to take it to the next level, the animal is not ready for this yet and you can’t do anything more then stimulating until the animal is sexually mature. You might want to try doing two special sessions each week instead of one, but two should be the absolute maximum and should also depend on the animal’s reaction to the stimulating. Remember to keep a close eye on emotions, don’t force anything!
I should also note that, if possible, it’s best to change the times you have your sessions every day. This to make sure that the animal won’t start to see sexual stuff as a routine rather then a pleasure. Vary the times, one day have a session in the morning, next day have a session in the evening etc.
A year can go by very fast as long as you’re having fun. And what is more fun then having a cat around you that allows you to play with its privates once or twice a week? Just sit out the year and keep doing your stuff like you always do. I must say this again though: Do not make this guide a priority when taking care of your cats.
One short year later, when the animal has reached the age of 2 years and 6 months, you can make an attempt at going up a level. This still won’t involve any actual sex or masturbation, but it will get you closer then you have been so far.
Again, first make sure that the animal is comfortable with what you have been doing so far. If you see signs that show this isn’t the case, then you should wait with going up a level until the animal is comfortable with it.
At the current age, your animal is now getting closer and closer to their sexual maturity. You’re far from reaching your goal though, you still have an entire year to go, but all the training you did the last two years should start to show off little by little.
So, whenever you’re ready, let’s proceed.
The goal of the next and hopefully last year of the training will be to make the animal comfortable with your sexual advances, as well as teach the animal on how to behave when making sexual advances of its own. We will cover the acceptance of oral sex, mounting behaviour and other side stuff that might be interesting to know.
Before we do anything however, I remind you again that you are dealing with an animal that by now is probably twice your size, five times your own weight and twenty times as strong as you. And it’s still growing! Needless to say, be extremely careful. No matter how good the relationship is between you and your animal, it only takes one mistake to get yourself killed or seriously wounded.
Before we go on with any of the guides below, it is important that the animal is comfortable with you while you are naked. As this is the eventual goal, getting this right is crucial, and it’s not as easy as you might think.
The animal is in fact likely to almost ignore the fact that you’re naked in the first place. Having clothes on or being totally naked means very little to an animal. The thing that makes this tricky is that you are likely to become very nervous and maybe even a little bit fearsome. Clothing has become an extra layer of skin to humans in the past few million years. It keeps us warm, it can function as a very thin body armour and it generally just makes you feel save to have clothing on. When you are naked, you feel vulnerable. No matter if you get naked to take a shower, or to make love to your wife or husband.
When you are standing naked in the same room as a large predator which could possibly kill you, that is both arousing and extremely scary; the problem is that animals can sense if a person is nervous or scared, and their instinct might act on this. For that reason, you need to get used to being naked around the animal just as much as the animal has to get used to it. You need to get to a point where you can enter the room with your animal and take off your clothes without having any sign of major fear. It’s okay to be a little nervous, but no more then just a little.
The best way to get you both used to that situation is to take things step by step, just as we have been doing for the last few years.
Next time you take the animal in for one of its ‘special’ sessions, do what you normally do, but take your shirt off in the process so that you have a naked chest. Sit back for a bit, and if the animal is interested let it explore your naked chest. If it’s not directly interested, see if you can get it interested by keeping your chest close to its head. Don’t force yourself onto the animal, but give it a fair opportunity to explore you. When it loses interest, or won’t show any interest at all, you’re on the right track. Finish the session normally, and then repeat this again the next day.
The goal is to make sure that the animal doesn’t have a sudden change of behaviour when you get naked, as this could put you in unexpected situations. Therefore, when the animal is not interested, or surprised, to see you naked, you are on the right way.
When the animal has shown a total lack of interest for one or two ‘special’ sessions, you can move on to your pants.
Strip down to the point where you are wearing nothing but your underwear. If you are getting horny by getting naked in front of this large predator, he/she will pick up on it even with your underwear still on. When the animal detects that you’re getting horny, it might start sniffing around between your legs. Don’t shy away, the odds of something bad happening are very low at this point, especially if the past two years of training went as they should have. Instead, just try and enjoy having a mighty big cat sniffing around in your crotch, but don’t get carried away!
As the animal is exploring you, you can continue the special session as you normally would. Mess around with the animal’s privates a bit as you are being explored, then end the session.
17. Oral Sex – Receiving
Alright, let’s get this one out of the way first.
I’ll start from a male’s point of view. Some say they would absolutely love to receive oral sex from a big cat. The truth however, is that a big cat giving you oral sex will leave you sore for hours, after which you will probably never do it again. And those who own a housecat who likes to lick your hand know exactly why that is.
Any cat’s tongue is designed with sandpaper like texture, meant to scrape flesh remains off of bones. Now picture a tongue that is meant to scrape meat off of bones, licking over your penis. Had some time to picture it? Not a very pleasant thought after all, is it? And on top of that, if you would like to try it anyway, the training methods required to make this work are enough to make any average guy pass out. But I will cover that in a moment.
Now, for the ladies, this might be a different story. The sandpaper like texture of a feline’s tongue could actually be a very pleasing sensation to a female. This might differ from person to person though.
Alright, now that we got the theoretical stuff out of the way, let’s get busy. How do you get a feline to give you oral sex? There isn’t really a standard way to do it. It depends completely on the animal to what triggers it to start licking you down there. For some the scent of your genitals is enough to make them curious, if that’s the case you are in luck. If not, then try using a form of lure. As you can use peanut butter for dogs, you can use a piece of meat to attract a big cat.
Note: Do NOT use raw meat for this. It can get you very nasty infections! Preferably use meat you buy at a store, such as a slice of sausage. This can still get you an infection, but it’s not as risky as using the raw meat you feed your cats. Always be sure to firmly clean yourself after bringing your genitals in touch with (raw) meat.
Once you have the animal's attention, let it have its way with you as far as you want to allow. When you had enough, slowly back off and push the animal away. If you two have a good relation, it will get the hint and stop what it’s doing. From here you need to decide if you want to repeat what you just did or not. For some it can be to painful, for some it can be extremely pleasing. If you liked it and want to train the animal in doing this more often, get a small piece of meat (no more then a little ‘block’ the size of a brownie) to reward the animal. If you don’t want to continue training the animal in doing this, just zip up and finish the session.
Note: When rewarding your animal in training, not only sexual training but also everyday normal training, keep your animal’s health in mind. The meat rewards may seem like a snack, but just like with us humans, too many snacks make you fat. So if you give your animal a lot of meat rewards on a day, decrease the amount of meat the animal gets for dinner, to meet the normal daily total average.
Continue your sessions, and continue training your animal in giving you oral. Feel free to have it lick you to an orgasm but be careful not to lose your guard when you climax. Surprising the animal might trigger a fierce or sudden reaction which you do not want with a feline’s head in your crotch.
The animals training in giving oral sex can be stopped when you no longer need to lure it any more. You might want to create a certain gesture or sign to show your animal what it is expected to do, since merely standing there naked can mean multiple things as you teach it to do more stuff. To teach the animal to associate a certain sign with a certain action, you make sure you give that sign every time you start the training. After a few sessions, also teach the animal not to do anything unless you give that certain signal. If you have a good relation with your animal, it won’t be much harder then training a dog.
Getting your animal to give you oral on command is your first major accomplishment. From now on you can just let your animal give you oral when you want, just don’t forget to reward it. The animal is expecting to get a reward for its efforts, so make sure he/she gets it. Also, don’t overdo the oral bit. You still have other things to train.
18. Oral Sex – Giving
A much more fun thing to do if you ask me. Pleasure the animal by using your mouth on those sweet spots. Unfortunately, getting to the point where you can actually do this is as hard as the final result is fun. Big cats, especially the males, are usually not very fond of having others sniffing around at their privates, let alone it involving one’s mouth. Basically, the better your relation with the animal, the easier and faster this will go.
Before we go on, you need to realize very well that when you give oral to a big cat, you are in a VERY vulnerable position. When the animal is standing or lying on its stomach, it takes him/her less then a second to turn around, slap you silly or lunge at your throat. And maybe a millisecond longer when he/she is on it’s back. So when you give oral, you better make damn sure the animal is enjoying itself and that you don’t hurt it. This is a literal case where one mistake can be fatal!
Also, having a second person present to monitor is not required but it is recommended for your own savety.
Note: There is no real ‘save’ way to approach a big cat’s genitals with your mouth or your own genitals. The risk of it getting pissed at you will always be there, and that’s a risk you will have to be willing to take. All you have to trust on is the relationship you have with the animal. Which basically should be enough, but you can never forget about the animal’s instinct. Never take anything for granted when handling big cats, be it normally or sexually.
18.1. Giving - Male Cats
What’s more fun then sucking on that pink delight? Getting f***** by it, probably, but we’ll get to that later. Right now, we want to know how you can safely give a male cat a blowjob without it biting your head off.
Everything leads back to trust on this one. The cat needs to know you won’t hurt it back there and it needs to know that having your mouth that close to his tool is actually a very nice feeling. Screw this up the first time and your chances of ever getting it right drop down dramatically. Just remember this very easy rule: Teeth = possible death. If possible, practise giving blowjobs to a human partner first, to get a good feel on how to keep your teeth out of reach. It’s very easy to make a slip up with your teeth, so if you can give a toothless blowjob to a human partner, a big cat should be relatively easy, as their penis is a lot smaller.
Now, on to the actually training. First of all your head needs to gain access to the area underneath the tail. To get there, you first need to raise the tail. And that already it a lot harder to do then you might think. If you’re lucky, the cat will raise his tail by itself when you start stroking his privates. But if he doesn’t, you will need to lift it. Depending on what the cat allows you to do, it might stand still or it might turn away from you. But if the training and the special sessions went as they should have, he should be realy enjoying you stroking him over his privates and lifting his tail in the process.
Pay close attention to his behaviour as you stroke. The position of his ears, the sounds he might be making, the behaviour of his tail. Make sure he’s happy with what you are doing, then make a ‘screenshot’ of his behaviour in your mind. You will soon be advancing your mouth to his privates and you need to make sure the behaviour on that screenshot doesn’t change drastically as you advance downwards.
While you are stroking his privates, move your other hand to the far end of his back, to the base of his tail. Stroking him there might call a reaction of raising his tail completely and curling his back a little. That’s fine, the important part is that he doesn’t turn around or pull away. Stroke him there a few times with your other hand, and if he hasn’t moved, or changed behaviour, then you’re free to move on.
Now use that same hand to stroke his left hind leg flank (or the right one, if you’re stroking his penis with your left hand), while slowly getting on your knees. Keep a close eye on his behaviour, if it makes a drastic change, get back up and try again, more subtle.
Once you are down on your knees, keep stroking the animals flank, and then slowly rest your chin on the far end of his back where you were stroking him earlier. Keep in mind that this probably calls the same reaction as your hand, so don’t accidentally bite your tongue when he arcs up his back and tail. Again, watch his reaction and behaviour and act appropriately when necessary. When again there is no big behaviour change, you are clear to move on.
Keep stroking his privates while you gently slide your head down to his flank which you were stroking with your hard earlier. Place this hand somewhere on the ground preferably, with a tight grip so you can get up fast if needed. Things are getting risky now, so be prepared to dodge an angry reaction, but as stated before, try not to show you’re afraid.
As you slide your head to his flank, keep brushing your cheek against his fur and see how he reacts. Major behaviour change? Back off, repeat everything again until you’re in the clear.
Now this is where it gets fun, but this is also the most risky part. When you’re in the clear, slowly move your stroking hand away from his privates, and advance your head to it very gently. You’re going to lose sight of his head for a bit as you get behind him, so pay extra attention to the tail. If it suddenly start swaging after it has been still, or vice versa, stop what you are doing and get up to see what’s wrong. Take a close look at the animals head and ears. See if it’s still happy, and track the position of the ears. Up is good, flat is bad.
When you are sure you’re in the clear, get back down there and carefully move your mouth to his sheath. Don’t cling your hands on his sides, but try holding on to a wall, gate or table to keep your balance.
If you are still certain that the animal is still enjoying itself, you can give the opening of his sheath a small lick with your tongue. Look up to see his head and note his reaction. Repeat licking his sheath a few times, doing it a little longer and a little firmer each time, and check his reaction after each lick.
This might be the part where the fun ends and the animal starts to get annoyed. If that’s the case, just back off, end the session for the day and give the animal a reward for allowing you to get this close. This will show the animal that it did well by allowing you to do that, and maybe next time you get an opportunity to go further.
When you still are in the clear, however, you can start the real deal. Keep monitoring the animal's reaction, and use a free hand to gently pull his sheath back. This should be the very first time you’re pulling his sheath back, if you followed this guide correctly, so keep a very close eye on his behaviour. You know the drill when you get the red light.
When you pulled his sheath back enough to expose the majority of his penis (be careful not to hurt him) make a quick note to see if it’s erect or not. With all the stroking, you have a nice chance that it is. If it’s not, that’s not a big deal for now, as long as you managed to get it out of the sheath.
Here comes the fun part. Even though the animal is not yet truly ready for sex, we’re going to give him a little preview of it by giving him a real actual blowjob. This is the most important moment of the entire oral giving training. Since your mouth is not a natural way for his penis to be stimulated, it’s very new to him. How he will associate a blowjob with good or with bad in the future, is up to how you perform the very first time. Give him a very good time, and he will not mind doing it again some day. Hurt him, and you don’t even have to bother starting over.
Slowly move your lips to his tip, and make sure you use plenty of saliva. Soak your mouth and lips until you’re pretty much drooling. The more the better, chewing gum helps a lot in getting extra saliva, should you have trouble getting a lot of it. Then push your mouth over his shaft, to give him the feeling he’s penetrating a vagina. This is a safer way then just opening your mouth and taking it in, as this might have the nasty side effect of him being surprised and pulling back.
Once you’re busy, you’re busy. If you have a second person watching, make that person watch the animal's behaviour. If you’re alone, get up for short times in a row to check for yourself.
Be aware that a feline's penis is very flexible. It can move flat in almost every direction. For this reason, be careful when he twitches. If he hits your teeth, it could be game over.
Keep sucking him gently and with plenty of saliva for about a minute. Then stop, and get up. Pull his sheath back over his penis again and take a small break from touching him at all. Use this break to give him a reward for his efforts. After a few minutes, try seeing if you can go right for the prize without taking the detour around the back and flank. Just get your face right underneath his tail, gently pull back his sheath and continue where you left off. If you can duck into his crotch a few times in a row, in a few different sessions, the training is complete. HOWEVER! If the animal is not sexually mature at the time you complete this training, don’t start giving him blowjobs just yet. The only reason we did this now, is to make him associate your mouth around his penis with something good. It’s much easier to do that then when he’s sexually mature. You can give him some small 30 second blowjobs every once in a while, just to not make him forget. But that’s optional. Of course, don’t forget to reward, and think about creating a signal for him to show what you are going to do.
18.2. Giving – Female Cats
Using your mouth to pleasure a female cat is hardly any different then giving pleasure to a male cat, with the exception that the genitals are different. Also, getting to the point of acceptance is a lot easier because unlike males, females are used to having a muzzle underneath their tail every once in a while. They are more likely to just accept that.
You don’t have to worry about your teeth here either. That is, if you’re doing it the way you should. When licking a female’s vagina, don’t use anything other then your lips and tongue. If your teeth are involved you’re seriously doing something wrong. Again you would do good to practise giving oral to a female human partner before going down on your cat.
Now, let’s start the training. Unlike the male cat, you can try going right for your target with a female. Start out by just rubbing your fingers over her vagina for a while; this should make her raise her tail if she likes it. When you are clear to proceed, you can get on your knees and advance your head to her vagina. Don’t forget to keep your eye on her behaviour!
Give a few kisses on her vagina and see how she reacts. When for whatever reason she doesn’t want you around and moves away, try using the same tactic we used for a male cat. Base of the tail, flank, backside. If you still get the red light, you know the drill. Back off, give her a reward and try again some other time.
Once you are accepted by her to do what you came down there to do, you can just experiment a bit with things she might like. Keep in mind that a felines vagina is different from a human one. To my knowledge there is no clitoris, nor are the outside walls as sensitive to stimulation. She still experiences pleasure from oral stimulation, but her main area of stimulation is inside the vagina rather then outside. And unless you have a realy firm, long and flexible tongue you won’t reach that for now anyway.
Since your cat has never mated before, and is not even sexually mature on top of that, expect her to be very tight. You probably won’t be able to get your tongue in at the first place. You can try, but don’t try to force it. Also don’t think about stretching her out with your fingers, because that will only hurt her and she will in turn hurt you. Just enjoy the bittersweet taste of her jewel, let your tongue go wild down there and enjoy.
Giving oral to a female is more fun when the cat is on her back, as you won’t have your nose in her butt and you have more room. So if possible, try getting her to lay on her back and give oral that way. Also don’t forget to reward her after each successful time.
19. Sexual Maturity
We have now done everything we can do while your animal is still sexually immature. Going any further, such as actual penetration, will really have to wait until your animal starts to become sexually active.
By the time you finished the above trainings however, your animal is probably already around the age of 3, so it’s not that far away anymore. Actually, if you’re in luck your animal is already sexually active. Generally big cats become sexually active between 3 and 4,5 years of age. This is different for every cat species however, so you will have to look that up for yourself.
If you want to realy play save, you can wait with taking the next step until the animal is around 4 years of age. Then you can be pretty sure the animal is ready for sexual intercourse, be it with a human or a fellow cat.
You will have to make the judgement yourself. There isn’t realy a set age, so you can either look at behaviour around other cats (are females in heat? Are male tigers mounting females or humping objects? Ect.). When you think the animal is ready, go for it. But if you have even the slightest doubt, just wait a bit longer. You really don’t want to risk it.
For the sake of this guide, we are going to assume your animal has passed the age of 4. By this time it’s almost certain that the animal is sexually mature and ready for more intercourse, both with you as well as other animals.
For males it is not a problem to see if they are in heat, because males don’t go in heat. When a male is sexually mature, he will mount whenever he gets the chance. Their like a 24/7 walking sex machine just waiting until a female comes along and lets them do their thing.
The problems arise with females, as they only go into heat for small periods of time throughout the year and there is no set time for this to happen like with other mammals. One year it can happen 4 times in all seasons, next year it only happens 3 times in 2 seasons, for example.
To see if a female is in heat, there are a few things you can do. First of all you can check the female’s vagina. When she is in active heat it might appear somewhat swollen and it will stand out more so then usual. But this is never something you should solely base your decision on. Next you should see how she behaves around mature males. When she is in heat, she will squirm on the ground near the male, chuff repeatedly and will lie down on the ground inviting the male to mount her.
When those two things are happening, you have confirmed the female is in heat and ready to go.
A nice note is that females don’t always necessarily have to be in heat to accept sexual approaches from a human partner. It will help a great deal if they are, but when they genuinely enjoy the sexual contact they won’t mind having sex outside their heat.
[Last part of the guide, first post got cut off...]
20. Sexual Intercourse – General
Having intercourse with males and females is very different and one is much more dangerous then the other. Therefore both genders will obviously have their own guides, but there are some things you need to secure before getting down and dirty with either gender. Unlike the training, the actual intercourse is going to be a lot more dangerous and the risks of a fatal accident are a lot higher if you don’t know what you are doing, or don’t do it properly. Keep these things in mind before going any further.
1. You have to be absolutely sure that the animal trusts you with sexual advances. If at any point in the last 4 years you felt that the animal was not comfortable, especially the last year, do not make any attempts to have intercourse and continue with the training until you are absolutely sure the bond is strong enough to proceed.
2. Always make sure the animal trusts you, but never fully trust the animal. With the positions you are going to be in, it would be a foolish thing to take 100% trust in the animal. No matter how good friends you are, big cats are wild animals who still have unpredictable behaviour, no matter how much training they have had. Never assume anything and judge situations at that time instead of looking at previous ones to make a judgement.
3. The animal is always in control. You might be able to have your tiger give you a blowjob on command, and you might be able to have it lay down on its back on command. But when it comes to actual intercourse, you are the one taking commands. Try to force a tiger into sex and you won’t even have time to regret it. It is not your call when to have sex, that’s the animal’s call. And if complete the next training the right way, there is a good chance the animal will ask you for sex on a regular basis. Basically it should not be a matter of ‘I’m going to have sex with that tiger’. It should be: ‘I’m going to see if that tiger is in the mood to have sex with me’.
4. Keep your partner animal out of sight from other animals. When having intercourse with your animal, make sure other animals are not around to watch. Especially in male/female combinations, one could perk the interest of the other and trigger instincts you do not want triggered at that time. Also when taking the animal separate for a session, give it 10 minutes to adjust to the situation. The animal should recognize the difference between normal everyday life and the sex sessions. Both have their own rules and the animal should have picked up on that during the 4 years of training. There is no true way of making sure of this however, so always be on guard for significant behaviour changes.
5. And last but not least, always inform someone about where you are. You don’t necessarily have to tell them exactly what you are going to do, but when something goes wrong you will want people to be able to find you no matter how embarrassing the situation is. Something along the lines of ‘I’m going down to the tiger cages for some training, if I’m not back within an hour come check on me’. This of course works a lot better when you have a second person who helped you with the training in the first place.
Those are the things you need to remember for now and the future. Depending on the situations or things not described here you might need to create additional matters to pay attention to every time.
20.1. Sexual Intercourse – Male Human / Female Cat (Giving)
Let’s start with the most obvious combination.
One of the biggest obstacles to overcome here is to teach the female cat not to react aggressively while having intercourse. During natural mating between two cats it is believed that the aggressive reaction is caused by the barbs on the male’s penis that hurt the female. Even though this is a fair assumption, it is not for certain this is the case. Another theory is simply that the female is in charge of the mating and that the aggression is her way of telling the male to stop it.
Now, a females mating aggression can be anything from simple growling to downright attempts to maul her mate with complete use of claws and teeth. Because you are going to be the one having intercourse with her, you want to be absolutely sure this kind of behaviour does not happen. Even though you can never assume (see rule 2) it won’t, we can at least try to keep it to a minimum. The key to doing this is trust. Just like when giving oral to a male cat, the female needs to know that if she gives the red light, you will stop what you are doing immediately. If she knows this, she is unlikely to resort to violence to get her point across. Getting this right requires a lot of discipline and time from you. Every single time she gives you a red light, you need to be able to walk away immediately, even when you’re two seconds away from an orgasm. It requires huge control over your arousal and this might require some practise. I will share some methods to get good control over your arousal when we get to the point where we need it. But basically the same rules apply as in the early days of training.
Now, let’s get on with the best but hardest training so far.
When your female cat is 4 years old, she is likely to be sexually mature and will experience her first heat soon. When she gets in heat, bring her inside to the area where you always do training. Get naked, grab a chair and sit down. Don’t do anything. Just sit there with her in the same room and let her adjust to the situation for a while.
Because of her heat she is in deep want of sex. And right now she is in the same room where she just had 4 years of sexual training. If you’re lucky, she will add 1 + 1 together and come to the conclusion that she might be able to get what she wants from you. Let her wander around for a while and see if she works it out. If she does, she will soon be squirming on the floor, begging you for attention, maybe even bluntly offering herself to you.
If she doesn’t, however, you could try to see if you can hint her. Try rubbing your hand over her vagina a bit to see how she reacts, then sit back and wait a few minutes again. Repeat this until she gets the point and offers herself.
You can not continue the training unless she offers herself to you, as this is the only natural thing. She instinctively knows she is only going to get sex when she offers herself. No male is going to risk getting bitchslapped in 17 different ways just to get laid.
The time it takes for her to offer herself to you can vary a big deal. It depends on a lot of things; how much training you guys went trough, how good the bond is, how needy she actually is and if she is filling to accept a human partner in the first place. If you’re lucky you hit the jackpot the first heat. If you’re not lucky, it can take you another year of trying before you finally get to a point where she will consider having sex with you.
Note: When you seem to be low on success, and have to wait out various heats, do not let her be in contact with any males. Not even trough the fence as this kind of defeats the purpose of the training. She needs to realize that the only chance of having sex lies with you. It is a bit of a grey area and you as the trainer needs to decide for yourself if you want to ‘trick’ her this way.
When she offers herself to you, try to judge how ‘bad’ her heat is. The more she wants sex, the bigger your chances for success. If you want to try to raise your chances a bit, you could just tease her a bit now, and get on with the actual deed tomorrow. This is likely to make her even hornier, and it shows her that you are interested in her. That in turn might make it faster for her to offer herself the next time. But, it can just as easy work the other way around and makes her loose interest in you. So carefully judge the situation she is in and decide if it would be best to act now or a day later.
When ready to proceed, take a deep breath and make sure you have your arousal under control. Make sure you realize that you are either a few minutes away from having sex with a tigress, or a few minutes away from death or serious injury. Realize the risks attached to this and make sure you are prepared to take them. And if at the last second you decide you don’t want to take the risk; no-one is going to call you a pussy for it. It’s already a very big achievement that you have come this far.
When ready, approach her and use your hand to stroke over her vagina. She’ll likely arc her back, lie down or roll around on the floor. When she stays steady and is giving you full access, have some lubricant ready and lube up a few fingers. Rub your fingers together a bit so that the lubricant warms up a bit. This way you won’t startle her to bad. Rub a bit more over her vagina, then when you feel ready and you think she is ready, slowly and carefully try to enter your pinkie. By now you should know that big cats don’t exactly honour their name when it comes to their equipment. Therefore the female’s vagina will be quite tight.
When the tip of your finger is inside, carefully slide it in deeper and keep monitoring her reactions at all time. As much as you would like to watch at what you are doing, you need to constantly keep her reactions under observation by looking at her head, ears, whiskers and tail. When you see any form of resistance, even when you’re not sure, stop what you are doing and make sure.
Try to insert the entire length of your finger, but don’t force anything. I can not give you any guarantees as to how much a female can take in terms of depth/length. It differs from animal to animal and I simply don’t know for sure how the female’s vagina is put together, so the more reason to proceed with caution. When you hit resistance inside, it doesn’t automatically mean that’s all she can take. Try to see if you can very gently stretch her out bit by bit. But take your time, take hours for all I care, but be very careful not to hurt her. You should be able to insert your entire pinkie sooner or later without hurting her. When you do, slide it in and out a couple of times. Make good use of lubricant and continue to monitor her reactions.
When you can smoothly slide your pinkie in and out without resistance, lube up your index finger and go in again. Same story, slowly, gently and stop as soon as you doubt. Repeat the procedure with your index finger, ring finger and middle finger.
There might be a point where you run into resistance and you will not be able to stretch it up anymore. Then that point is as deep as you can go. Remember that point, as you will need it for the actual deed. If you don’t run into a point where you can’t stretch, you’re in luck. But like I said, I can not give you any guarantee as to how deep on average you can go, because I simply don’t know.
When you reach the point where you can insert your middle finger completely (or as far as you can go) and slide it in and out without problems, you can go up a step. Retract your finger and review her reaction.
Mating usually doesn’t take any longer then a few seconds. Getting to the point where you can have intercourse with her will take at least half an hour. But all we can do is hope she will stay in the mood for as long as we need her to be. But when there comes a point she isn’t in the mood anymore and is letting you know it, you need to stop right away. Then you can just wait a while. A female's heat is a very strong instinct. A female generally offers herself to a male every 10 to 15 minutes for 3 to 5 days. So you won’t have to wait that long when she gets out of the mood. Just make sure you grant her every wish. Because getting this right is vital. Better be too careful and get it right then be too greedy and have your head bitten off.
What we are doing now is figuring out how far we can go, and if she will be able to take the size of your own penis. While men usually proud themselves for having big equipment, it’s actually the men with small equipment that are best suited for intercourse with a big cat. In fact, if you have big equipment there is a fair chance you are not able to have intercourse because of your size.
The finger routine doesn’t have to be done every time, but it is good for stretching her out a bit. Going right in will just hurt her and put you in unnecessary danger.
Now that we know how deep you can go without hurting her, we need to stretch her out a bit in width. Since a male cat’s penis is usually no thicker then your pinkie, your partner will shred you to pieces if you just attempt to insert that human penis into that tight space. So, lube up your index and middle finger and repeat the routine we did earlier. Do not go to fast, make good use of lube, and take pauses each time you go deeper. The deeper you go, the more her vagina will be stretched out because of the base of your fingers. Proceed with jumps of about a centimetre, and then take a 30 second pause after each jump. This will give the vaginal walls the chance to adjust to your fingers. There is going to be a point somewhere where you can stretch no more. Be very careful with finding this point because when you go past it you can seriously hurt your partner, with all consequences along with it.
You will only need to stretch her far enough so she can accommodate the width of your penis. Generally the index and middle finger next to each other are about the width of the average penis. Don’t go further then you need to, that way you avoid taking unnecessary risks.
Note: Those familiar with anal intercourse with human partners are bound to know a thing or two about stretching the anus. Since the human anus and the big cat’s vagina are similar in tightness, a few similar techniques can be used.
When you can smoothly insert your both those fingers inside without hurting her, the hardest part is over. Take a good note of the depth and width to which you can stretch, write it down if needed, so you won’t forget for future use.
What we did now was a one time thing only. Of course feel free to masturbate her this way as much as you want, but for intercourse it’s no longer required to stretch her on a finger by finger basis. Because you now know her measurements you can (in the future) enter one finger, wiggle around to stretch her a bit, and then add a second finger as soon as her width allows that.
If everything went well, your female partner is still enjoying your company and your actions. As long as she is enjoying herself it’s all fine. Just make sure you keep it that way.
Alright now, we are getting ever closer to the real deal, just a tad longer. After you have stretched her to an acceptable level, sit back and let her recover from any exhausting feelings you gave her. If she is not exhausted, then she will immediately beg for more, but take the time anyway to recover a bit yourself and to prepare yourself for what is yet to come. Take a small 5 minute break, and then get back to work.
When your girl offers herself to you again, take her offer and approach her. She will lay down on the ground, tail erect, offering her stretched opening to you. Stroke her flanks as you sit on your knees behind her, then slide a finger up and down her vagina once more.
Before we go on, I advice you to use a condom. Not only will a condom minimize the chance for any kind of infection, it will also prevent the placement of ‘evidence’. Should you have sex with your tigress, and suddenly she does get an infection for whatever reason, and the vet examines her and finds human semen, you have a lot of explaining to do. For that reason, use a condom. It’s little trouble.
When ready, lube up your penis and her vagina. Then, while closely monitoring her, push the head of your penis into her. This is the tensest moment of all. This is where you will find out if all those years of hard work are going to pay off, and if you are going to repeat this experience.
Very VERY slowly penetrate her. Go in an inch, and then pull back. Go in two inches, and then pull back. Repeat this until you reach the point you marked earlier. If you didn’t mark a point, carefully explore how deep you can go. But if you don’t want to take any risks, go in until about half of your penis is inside.
Each time you go in, monitor how she reacts and act according to it. If you’re not sure, pull back and stand back. If your doubts turned out to be wrong she will simply offer her self again in a while and you can pick up where you left off. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
When you reach the desired depth, hold still a moment. Keep your penis inside her and let her vagina get adjusted to your penis size. About 15 to 30 seconds should do.
Always be on guard for the red light, especially when you are keeping still. Since in nature this is usually the point where the male is ejaculating and the female is known to chase him off directly after that. This should occur about 10 seconds into holding still. But, it could very well not happen at all. Just be on guard for it.
After the 15 to 30 seconds pause, carefully start to thrust into her. But don’t go wild. Be very aware of every movement you make. You can not close your eyes and throw your head back when having sex with a tigress. You have to constantly pay attention to a dozen of things. It’s like driving a car, there’s never a point where you can just sit back and relax because there are always stuff to look out for.
From here, feel free to go on long enough to orgasm. But like I said earlier, you need to be able to stop in a split second, even if you feel your orgasm building up you need to be able to pull back immediately without hesitation. Thinking ‘she wants to stop but I only need two more seconds’ is going to get you killed. If not now it will be later. Stop is stop. Not stop 20 seconds later.
If you don’t get a red light, continue until you orgasm (if you want) and then pull back. Sit back, recover from what you just did, give her a big reward and let the realisation sink in that you just f***** a tigress and survived. Congratulations on your first time!
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Especially when a female approaches you for sex outside of her heat, her mood can suddenly change in the middle of it. Always be careful, over and over again.
20.2. Sexual Intercourse – Male Cat / Female or Male Human (Receiving)
Letting a male cat have sex with you is a lot easier to generally accomplish then having sex with a female cat. After all a male cat will never pass a chance to get laid. However, sex with male cats is also twice as dangerous. Because you are going to have to be mounted, you will either be on your knees or on your back. Both are positions where you have little chance of escape if things go bad. Another thing that makes matters complicated is the fact that males are usually very aggressive when mating and have a habit of biting their lover’s neck. While this is not a problem with members of their own species, if he bites your neck you’re dead, period.
Teaching a male cat not to bite down requires extreme amounts of training and it takes a lot of risks. And even then it is not sure if it can be done in the first place. It’s one of those instincts that don’t go out so easy. But let’s give it a try anyway.
Warning: The following training method required a lot of improvisation. I have no idea if this is even remotely going to work but it is the best I could come up with next to just getting on your knees and hoping he leaves your neck alone. Use this method at your own risk!
It is believed males bite down the neck of their partner to keep them still for as long as possible. The longer the female stays in place, the more time the male has to ejaculate thus the higher the chance of the female getting pregnant. Since we are more then willing to stay in place, we are going to try and use that to our advantage. We are going to apply the ‘trust technique’ again, with the idea that if the male knows we are going to stay in place no matter what, he won’t bite down. It’s a long shot, but let’s try it anyway.
When the male is sexually mature, take him into the training area you have been using for the past 4 years. Just like with the female, the male should be able to make the link between this room and sexual stimulation. Though unlike the female, it’s not required for him to make the link in order to have sex with him. If he does make the link though, he might already get excited when you get naked. Big cats are not stupid and they will more then likely remember you giving them some oral pleasure a year or so ago. Or just yesterday, depending on how much you like doing it. If you already have been sexually active with your male cat in terms of giving him oral, then hopefully he will already have a good deal of trust in you, which will make this part of the training a lot easier.
Now, when you are naked, spread a blanket out somewhere and lie down on your back. Put your arms next to your body and just lie there doing nothing.
When your animal comes around, curious to why you are lying there so stupid, stay still. Soon, his interest might be perked further and he might start sniffing around your body, despite the fact that your scent is one of the most known one’s in his system. Don’t be scared when he sniffs your genitals, it’s part of the process and isn’t a direct danger of any sort unless his behaviour tells you it is.
While he is sniffing around reach out to him and pet him a bit to comfort him.
When your feline is comfortable he might decide to lie down next to you. Or, if he’s feeling particularly lucky and confident, might even make an attempt to mount you. This is the eventual idea. While you are lying on the ground on your back, we need to get him to try and mount you. Should he not get the hint by himself at first, try stimulating him a bit by rubbing over his penis a bit, maybe give him a blowjob if you think that will get him excited enough to attempt a mount. When you got him excited enough to mount you, make sure you are down on your back like I described earlier. Make sure your legs are closed.
He is now likely to stand over you and crouch down. Since this is the first time mounting a human, he might be totally off on direction. Chances are that he’ll be rubbing his penis over your legs or stomach instead of your crotch. But that is not a problem for now. He will soon start to thrust away in the general area of where he ended up, looking for something to penetrate. But since you have your legs closed, the closest he will come to penetrating anything is your belly button.
The point of all this is not to actually let him succeed in his mounting, but to show him that you are going to stay where you are.
After a while he will give up, and back off. If you are halfway unlucky he might lie down right on top of you, in which case you should just stay where you are unless his weight is preventing you to breathe. If you don’t have any serious problems with him using you as a bed however, don’t push him off and just enjoy having a big cat right on top of you. But eventually, one of you will get bored. If it’s him, he’ll stand up and wander away. If it’s you who is getting bored, try to make clear to him that he needs to move. Be careful in the way you do this however and do not panic when he doesn’t want to move at first. He’s in the perfect position to bite your head off right now and he doesn’t even have to get up to do it. Take your time, he’ll move eventually and he won’t get angry at you if you don’t give him reason to. So don’t go poke him around in his side hoping it will encourage him to move or gently kick him in the stomach. He will so seriously not appreciate that.
Now, assuming everything went okay and no blood was spilled, end the session and repeat what we just did the next day.
When you repeated this routine once or twice more in the following days, you are up to make an important judgement. One which I can impossibly make from here (should you be in serious doubt and want a detailed answer, feel free to drop a mail in my mailbox asking for advise). You need to judge whether or not you think you are both ready to proceed to the real thing.
If your cat has attempted to mount you in the past couple of days without any sign of aggression at all, I’d say you have a fairly good chance that he realizes he should be careful with you.
If you did catch him being a little bit aggressive before, during or after mounting, you might want to spend a few more days doing the ‘pre-humps’ and see if he stays aggressive. And if he does, there’s not much you can do about it. Sometimes that’s just something you can’t get out, that’s the instinct making this all so troublesome.
From here you will have to make the judgement to whether you want to take the risk or not. The behaviour does not automatically mean he will bite down when he actually penetrates. But needless to say there’s a bigger chance.
There’s not much more you can do from here then to just go for it and hope for the best. I wish there was more security I could offer here. But unfortunately I can’t. This is simply one of the biggest risks in this guide, and it is up to you as a trainer if you want to take it. Again, if you decide at the last minute you don’t want to take the risk, no-one will call you a coward for it. You already came a very long way.
When you are sure the chances of him biting down are to a minimum, we can proceed. Do what we did before to get ready for him to mount you. Bring him into the training room, get naked, spread a blanket and lie down on your back, legs closed. When needed, stimulate your cat a bit by rubbing his penis or giving him some oral pleasure. Lie back down when your cat is getting excited enough to mount you.
Now, spread your legs when he wants to mount, so that your legs are around his body. Soon he should start to thrust at you a bit and it is up to you to help him find his target. The best way to give him as much access as possible is to pull your legs back as far as possible so that your rear end is up to about the same height as a female’s vaginal opening. Use your arms to hold your legs back and wait for him to take a good position.
Note: This part of the guide is written for both human genders. While females should have no problem guiding the cat to the vagina, males might have to do a little bit of stretching before having the cat take you anal. Not because of the size of the cat’s equipment, but because stretching a bit will make penetration a bit easier for the cat. Also, both genders will benefit from applying lube to the area that is going to be penetrated.
The cat should find its target a lot faster with your rear end in the air like this. However, pay close attention when you are a female ‘candidate’, because in your case the cat will have the option to penetrate either the vagina or the anus. Apply any corrections to your body position if he is going for the wrong target, and then let him do the rest.
Eventually the cat will find its target. When he does, the tip of his penis will rub over it before he lines up and penetrates. Even though the average feline penis is quite small, don’t expect a careful penetration. As soon as a tiger finds a hole to f***, he jams it in there and it won’t come out until he wants it to. Especially with anal penetration that could be a bit painful when it happens in the wrong way at the wrong time. So relax your muscles, take a breath and prepare for the penetration.
When the male cat has penetrated you, enjoy the feeling of him inside you for a moment.
Note: As your will no doubt have figured out by now, a cat’s penis has barbs on it. These barbs are there to stimulate the female into ovulating and are guessed to be quite painful for the female. It is unknown if this has to do with the sensitivity of the female’s vaginal walls, or if the barbs are actually that sharp. In any case, the barbs on the cat’s penis can either be a great feeling or a bit painful. You won’t have to worry about internal injuries however; it’s not razorblades we are talking about here.
As soon as he is inside you, you will have to pay close attention to his behaviour. Depending on the size of the animal, you are likely to have your face across from his chest. Have a look up at his head and see if he is even remotely bothered by the fact that he can’t reach your neck. If everything went okay with all the other parts of the training, he should be quite okay with it as long as he has something to f***. If you are not really sure however, be ready to relocate your arms over your throat. You knew there would be a risk when you started this, but if something does happen it would be better if he shred up your arms instead of your throat. Generally you should relocate your arms when his chin is above your forehead as this still gives you a bit of a time window.
Cats usually ejaculate a few seconds after penetration and dismount another few seconds after that. Mating usually doesn’t take longer then 20 seconds with another cat. With a human partner however, it might be a lot longer since he doesn’t have to worry about a claw in his face if he stays in to long. In any case, enjoy it for as long as it lasts, and pay close attention to when he withdraws. Obviously watch his behaviour, but also keep your own body under control. The barbs might twitch your body a bit, in turn spooking the male for whatever reason.
When he has withdrawn, he is likely to simply wander away without giving any major problems and lie down somewhere, maybe cleaning his genitals. This gives you a moment to just lay there and enjoy the aftermath. The size was probably not so intense, but having a massive animal such as a tiger fucking you silly is bound to be enough to make you at least pant.
If this all went without a problem, then you can now pride yourself on just having been f***** by a tiger a survived. Congratulations on your first time!
If you enjoyed it so much that you want to go again right after it, feel free to seduce the male again after 10 minutes or so. He is likely to be more then willing to go again. Repeat the experience as much as you like for now, but never lose your guard!
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Males can be more aggressive at times. Always be careful, over and over again.
20.3. Sexual Intercourse – Male Human / Male or Female Cat (Giving)
Last but not least, giving anal intercourse to a big cat. Out of all the intercourse guides, this part is probably the most challenging to accomplish. Therefore please understand right now that the odds of this working are quite small and that the cat always has the final say in if it wants to receive anal intercourse.
For the sake of the guide, I will be referring to the feline partner as a him. But almost the exact same logic goes for female cats as well, should you want to try it with a female.
Before we start I want to make clear that anal intercourse is obviously not a natural way of mating for a feline. Attempts to approach the anus of a cat with the intent to insert something can trigger quite a sudden and aggressive response, even when done in small steps. A big cat will have to like anal stimulation from the start, otherwise it will have to be taught to like it and in my books that crosses the line of abuse. With that bit of moral out of the way, let us begin.
Bring the animal into the training area and get naked. Give him some time to get comfortable and link the area with sexual stimulation like before. This guide will work better when in the middle of doing sexual stuff, as the animal might then associate it with sexual stimulation and is in turn more likely to accept it then when you would go right for it. So, instead of going right for the anus, we are going to do a little bit of foreplay. Make sure you have plenty of time for this one session, as you will need it.
Start the foreplay any way you like. Play around with him a bit, masturbate him, give some oral, stroke him here and there and every once in a while make a stroke near and over his anus.
Note: If you already get the red light right now for doing that, then you can stop reading this part of the guide right now and just carry on with regular intercourse instead. Your cat is obviously not interested in anal stimulation if it already gets angry for rubbing.
Do whatever you want to make him cum, including having him mount you if you so desire. In case of females, you could continue until you cum yourself or just spend a nice amount of time masturbating her.
After you made the male cum once or spend a good 15 minutes pleasuring the female, wait until the animal is back up and ready to go again. With both genders it should take about 10 to 15 minutes before they are ready for another round.
Now that he’s getting into the pleasure, start round two. Stroke, masturbate, lick, do whatever you want but don’t let him mount you again. Instead, keep doing the foreplay and occasionally keep rubbing over his anus. If he doesn’t object to this touching, he probably doesn’t mind it. After you have been doing that for a while, lube up your fingers a bit and warm it up a bit so you don’t startle him. For hygienic purposes I personally recommend also wearing a latex glove as it also makes the lubricant more effective. Keep masturbating him, but as you are doing so rub your lubed up finger over his anus and keep rubbing it. The idea is to have him link the pleasant feeling of masturbation with the touch of the anus; in turn he should link it to sexual pleasure. So keep masturbating him unless you are told to do otherwise.
If he still doesn’t object to anything, try to see what happens when you put pressure on the anus. Don’t insert a finger just yet, but gently push on the opening a bit and carefully monitor his response. Should he draw away from you, follow him and try once more. If then still he doesn’t want to, then consider it a red light and end the training. Should he react with aggression however, then end the training immediately.
If everything remains to go well and the animals shows no sign of objection, keep putting pressure on the anus a little longer while still masturbating him. After having done this for another five minutes, you can see if you are allowed to insert the tip of your finger. Add some extra lube and carefully push it inside. This could make him go crazy, so be on your highest guard when doing this. If it doesn’t, however, it becomes saver and saver to say that you are in luck and he actually likes anal stimulation.
Proceed to slide the tip of your finger, no more then a nail’s length, in and out of his anus for about five minutes. Should no problems arise, increase the length and slide half your index finger inside and keep it there for about half a minute. Remember, if at any time you get the red light, stop what you’re doing.
After the 30 seconds, pull it back out and gently proceed to finger him for another five minutes, while still masturbating him. Try to see if you can go deeper each time you go in, but do it in very little steps!
When the five minutes are over, remember how deep you managed to go with him and remember that point. If you were in luck, you managed to insert your entire finger. This is possible in theory but the animal might not like it that deep, so we’ll go with the depth you marked earlier. Write it down somewhere, and then go back to your animal and lube up a second finger to stretch him out a bit. While the feline anus is generally less tight then the feline vagina, it can still do with some stretching. If you have any ‘stretch’ toys, feel free to give them a try. Carefully insert your two fingers or the toy, use plenty of lube and slowly slide your fingers deeper inside. When you feel resistance, stop right there and keep your fingers where they are for about 30 seconds. This should give the anal muscle some time to adjust to the width of your fingers.
Carefully go deeper, take your time, until you reach the depth point we marked. Should you still haven’t received a red light, it’s save to say you have one of the few felines that likes anal stimulation! Lucky you!
Now, have a check to see if your feline is still in the mood for more. After all this it wouldn’t be surprising if he was getting a bit bored or lost interest. If this is the case, leave him be for now. Instead, proceed with the next bit the next day after you have done the required stretching. Obviously it doesn’t have to be as lengthy as we just did, but do make sure you take your time in stretching him properly or you might hurt him.
When your feline is ready for more, it’s time for the real deal. Rid yourself of the glove you were wearing, quickly wash your hands if you can and then return to your feline lover. With him now being stretched to an acceptable width, he should be able to cope with the size of your penis. And if he didn’t mind the fingers in his rear, he should have little problems with having your penis in there instead.
When you are ready, take position behind him and be sure to wear a condom to avoid infections. If he enjoyed the anal stimulation, he might arc his back or even raise his tail by himself and encourage you to give more. But even if this doesn’t happen, it doesn’t mean he isn’t okay with it. So, lift the tail out the way and curl it so that the tip comes near to his spine, as this gives better access to the anus. Hold it in place with one hand and masturbate him with the other. Now, when ready you can lube up your penis and his anus and prepare for the penetration. Rub your penis’ tip over his entrance and if no objections arise, carefully push your tip inside. Remember to always keep a close eye on his behaviour as it can always just change in a second. Just like with your fingers, carefully and slowly go deeper, using the step by step method. Don’t go past the point you marked earlier, since we do not know how he will react to this. Carefully start to thrust, but keep masturbating him while you are doing so.
Feel free to keep going until you orgasm, but be careful not to get carried away and make to hard thrusts. You are already very lucky if your cat is letting you do this, don’t test your luck.
When you are done, gently pull back and step back so both of you can clean up. Don’t forget to give your cat a reward. As for training him, if he genuinely liked it then he might ask you for more at a later time. But a good way to let him know you would like to take him anal is to simply rub over his anus like we did at the start. Now that he knows what the idea is, his behaviour should easily tell you if you have a red or green light. If he raises his tail, he’s obviously interested. If he turns away, there’s a big chance he’s not. Anal intercourse with a big cat is quite a special matter and should be carefully considered each and every time.
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Males can be more aggressive at times. Always be careful, over and over again.
21. After word
By the time you finish all the above training, your animal should already be well underway to it’s 5th birthday, if not already it’s 6th. In the past years you have build up such a relation with your cats that they allow you to have sex with them. This is a very special thing and don’t be afraid to be proud of it. Outsiders might find the idea disgusting but we all know better. And besides, disgusting or not, being able to train a tiger to give you a blowjob is a pretty big achievement if you ask me.
Anyway, having a big cat to play around with is the dream of many zoos’ out there. But with lack thereof, many will settle for pictures. If you one day choose to be a nice guy/girl and provide the community with some very unique pictures of your adventures with your cat, keep a few things in mind.
1. First and most obvious, make sure you can not be recognized on the picture. Use Photoshop to blur your face if you need to. This is very important because if you don’t, you will have animal rights and the police on your doorstep within days.
2. Mind the background. Remember that there are more people working at your facility then just you (usually). If someone happens to identify the room the pictures were taken in, you’ll be in trouble. To avoid that, put up a sheet or a green screen in the background so that the room you are in isn’t visible.
3. Also mind stuff like tattoos on your body. No two tattoos are the same and they are a dead giveaway. Wear something like a patch over them while taking the pictures, or blur them out in Photoshop later. This also goes when you have certain details of the animal on the picture. While to the untrained eye all tigers look alike, there are people who can identify the animal in question. If possible, keep the animal’s face out of the picture and focus on the interesting parts instead.
4. Last but not least, when posting the pictures be very careful about your identity. Don’t post under your usual name and if possible don’t post them from your own computer. Because if someone tracks your IP, that’s a dead giveaway. Your best bet is to send the pictures to someone else, a friend in another country all together who can in turn post them using a computer in a library or an internet café. This way the trail will go in the entire opposite direction.
The above obviously also goes for video recordings. The community will be very thankful for contributions you make, but don’t let your well doing compromise you and your lover.
If at anytime during your training you have any questions about something in this guide, feel free to drop a mail at [EMAIL REMOVED - USE THE PM SYSTEM]. I will try to help you out the best I can. Also please use this address to keep me up to date on your progress, as I will be very interested to see how it goes.
For now, have a lot of fun with your feline partner and thank you for your interest in this guide!
TheTiger
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The ultimate guide: How to make love to big cats
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Version: 1.0
Revision History:
Version 1.0 – Original Release
Content
1. Welcome and Intro
2. How this guide came to be
3. Feedback
4. Warning & Disclaimer
5. Other Guides
6. Species
7. Is it possible to have sex with a big cat?
8. Access to big cats
9. Preparing for an experience…
10. The start of a beautiful friendship
11. Two months old
12. Six months old
13. Sexual Comfort
14. Growing… Growing… Growing…
15. Staying in control
16. The waiting game
17. Oral Sex – Receiving
18. Oral Sex – Giving
--18.1. Giving – Male Cats
--18.2. Giving – Female Cats
19. Sexual Maturity
20. Sexual Intercourse – General
--20.1. Male Human / Female Cat (Giving)
--20.2. Male Cat / Male or Female Human (Receiving)
--20.3. Male Human / Male or Female Cat (Giving Anal)
21. After Word
1. Welcome and Intro
In a few minutes we will start learning the interesting and fascinating world of big cats and how to get them to be sexually active with a human being. But before we dive into that, I want to take some time out to get some stuff out of the way. Make sure you read everything because it is all equally important.
First off, I want to take some time out to explain the difference between zoophilia and bestiality, as there are many different stories about it.
Zoophilia in short means the love, passion and care for an animal, usually love on the same level as an average person would feel for a human partner. It doesn’t always have to involve sex; some people have a real relationship with their animal, or even get married with their animal, without a sexual relation ever being there.
Then there is bestiality; this is basically the sexual side of zoophilia. Unlike zoophilia, however, bestiality comes in many different forms. The one you will usually find around the internet is the pornographic form - Girls being f***** by dogs, horses and the like, usually for commercial purposes. This kind of bestiality is often paired with downright animal abuse, as the larger animals are often drugged and prepared in other cruel ways for the sexual acts.
There is also the loving side of bestiality however, which is one not many people seem to know. Having sex with an animal that you love, and which loves you back is not at all bad; It’s a little out of the ordinary at the most.
Just keep in mind that having sex with animals is not by definition bad and is not by definition animal abuse. This guide will explain in detail how to have sex with big cats, but this guide will at all times put the welfare of the animal above everything else.
If you are going to read this guide without having any knowledge of what it means to be a zoophile – for whatever reason you might do so - I ask you to at least gather some knowledge about the subject first before jumping to conclusions about me, or zoophilia as a whole.
Also, this guide is written with the use of ‘sexual training’, meaning you basically train the animal to have sex with human beings. This is a very grey area, even for a lot of zoophiles, as it is often believed that training an animal to have sex with a human is abusing it’s ‘low intelligence’. I for one don’t completely agree with this, as you can’t force an animal to do something no matter how good you train it, especially not a big cat. But I will let everyone have their own view on that matter, as long as you realize that never in this guide I will tell you to force anything on the animal. If you follow this guide correctly, the animal will be doing everything out of free will, and pressure will never be involved.
2. How this guide came to be
I have had a love for cats in general for about my entire life, but my love and sexual attraction to tigers started developing when I was around 11 years of age. The same as with many zoophiles, at first I thought I was strange and weird or sick until I learned there were many more people like me. In the course of time I accepted my sexual preference as I met other people who were sexually attracted to big cats and slowly the topic of having sex with big cats became as normal as talking about having sex with a hot girl.
Many often wonder if it’s possible to have sex with a big cat, given the killer instinct these animals carry with them.
There is a guide over at zoophilia.net instructing on how to approach a big cat to have sex with it, but it was so incomplete that I decided to write up my own guide, using the knowledge I have about these wonderful animals to a great advantage.
Because I have been so fond of cats all my live, I know a lot about them; big cats, with tigers in particular, rank very high on my knowledge list and I dare to say I have enough knowledge about these animals to call myself at least a semi-expert in their behaviour. With that I started writing on this guide, in the first place for myself, as there will be a day where I want to test this all out, but also for anyone who has the will and means to give it a try but is looking for a good foundation to start on.
3. Feedback
I would like to ask anyone who is going to make use of this guide to keep me up to speed on your progress because I’m realy interested in how this will turn out for others. You can mail me with your experiences from this guide, as well as questions you might have about a certain part, to [EMAIL REMOVED - USE THE PM SYSTEM].
4. Warning & Disclaimer
The use of this guide is completely at your own risk. Please keep in mind that these are still (semi-)wild animals you will be working with and that the chances for injury or death are quite real. I have written this guide with the safety of the user in mind but the risk will always be present. I cannot be held responsible for your injuries or possible death!
All species of big cats should be handled with extreme caution, and their behaviour must never be taken for granted.
In addition, please keep in mind that there are no existing stories or reports about anyone ever having (attempted) sex with a big cat. Therefore this guide is based completely on theory and even though I know a lot about these animals I am not to proud to say that there are things I don’t know. Therefore not all info in this guide will be 100% accurate. Improvisation from your part WILL be required at certain points.
The chance of injury or even death is very real when being in direct contact with a big cat!
5. Other Guides
To this day I have only seen one other guide to having sex with big cats, and it’s located at zoophile.net. I absolutely urge anyone reading this, to NOT follow that guide. It is very inaccurate, incomplete and attempting to follow the instructions in that guide WILL get you killed without a doubt. I’m sure the author of the guide in question meant well, but you simply can’t explain how to have a sexual relation with a big cat in only 2 paragraphs. I just wanted that to be clear before moving on.
6. Species
Even though this guide can, in theory, be used with any kind of big cat, it has been written for use with only certain species. These being:
- Liger
- Siberian Tiger
- Bengal Tiger
- Sumatran Tiger
- African Lion
- Asiatic Lion
- Tigon
- Mountain Lion (Puma)
As said, this guide can be used with other big cat species as well. But I recommend against this for the following reasons:
Leopards & Jaguars (Incl. all sub species) - Leopards and Jaguars are the most vicious and homicidal species in the big cat family. Even if it has been raised from day one, the odds of these animals turning against you and killing you are almost three times higher then with any of the other species. This is a general statement and can of course vary from animal to animal.
Cheetahs – While Cheetah’s are technically part of the Big Cat family, they belong in a different branch. They also have a different behavioural pattern and slightly different body built. Therefore some parts in this guide may not be accurate for the cheetah.
Now, with all the formalities and warnings out of the way, let’s get started. Please note that I wrote this guide using my knowledge of tigers as a foundation. General behavior can be different for each species and even the behaviour of a tiger is different from animal to animal. For that reason it is good to treat this guide as just that; A guide, a foundation for your own experimentation. Almost every situation described in this guide will call for some improvisation from your side to match your animal’s behaviour. For that reason, I expect anyone following this guide to have basic knowledge about big cats. Do NOT attempt to use this guide if you know nothing about big cats and have no idea what you’re doing!
You can use this guide on your own, but for safety purposes it’s better to use this guide with a second person present.
7. Is it possible to have sex with big cats?
The main question, is it at all possible to have sex with a wild animal like a big cat? At first glance you would be tempted to say that a big cat is a dangerous wild animal which will kill you the second you step into its cage. Anyone studying these animals however, would know that big cats are never always mindless killing machines. Big cats can be very affectionate to whoever is taking care of them. They know who is bringing them food every day, who keeps their cages clean and who entertains them and when a normal caretaker relationship is expanded to a more direct one, where the animal and the caretaker are in direct contact, that affection can only grow. When handled right, big cats can become very friendly live partners, which will actually be willing to have sex with you. All you have to do is teach them how.
But that’s all theory; fact is that there are no reports at all of a human being having a sexual relationship with a big cat. There have been reports and pictures of people masturbating big cats such as lions. I myself have had the privilege of masturbating a tigress; but actions often don’t go much further then that.
The only story that I know is from Mable Stark - She was and still is known as one of the best big cat trainers the world has ever known. The story has it, that she had such a good relation with her tigers that they occasionally mounted her. This happened both in private, but also during shows.
In the book “The last confessions of Mabel Stark”, this subject is briefly discussed. It is said that after being mounted by her tiger Rajah during shows a few times, she changed her all black outfit to an all white outfit, to conceal the white semen from the crowds. From a distance (unless you knew what to look for) it looked just like the wrestling match that was promised.
Next to the alleged sexual relation Mabel had with her tigers, no reports or stories have ever been shared.
But in theory it should be perfectly possible to have a sexual relation with a tiger, or any other kind of big cat for that matter. When a big cat fully trusts you, it will never attack you without a reason. But more important, if you manage to win the full trust of a big cat in such a way it allows you to play with his/her privates, getting him/her to trust you enough to have a sexual relation with him/her is not to big of a step. So long as you keep in mind that an animal's definition of trust isn’t necessarily the same as the human definition. Never take your relation with your animal for granted.
To answer the initial question; is it, in theory, possible to have sex with a big cat without drugging or abusing it? Yes, it is.
8. Access to big cats
Use of this guide naturally requires that you have access to big cats. However, we do seriously NOT recommend 'fence hopping'. Fence hopping means entering/breaking into other people's property to have sexual intercourse with their animals. The term fence hopping is mostly used when entering a field of horses belonging to someone else to have sexual intercourse with them.
Of course in this case, we are not talking about horses; we are talking about animals which can be extremely dangerous not only to you, but also to people living around the property. Therefore do not attempt to break into a zoo or a sanctuary with the idea to attempt sex with a tiger or any other big cat. I guarantee it will get you and in turn also the animal in question KILLED.
Zoos and sanctuaries usually have tight security, so if you're not killed you will be caught.
With that said, you will understand that this guide is only useable for those who actually own a big cat, either as the owner of a sanctuary or privately. If you work at a zoo, you're out of luck. Not only do you not actually own the animals, zoo animals are usually kept wild for show and can therefore be extremely dangerous to humans.
Sanctuary employees and private owners could make use of this guide, but do note that we do not recommend attempting anything sexual with the animals if you don't own them. If you meet the requirements the rest of the guide points out, you can likely do it. But if you are caught doing this by the owner, know that you will be in deep, deep trouble.
9. Preparing for an experience from heaven, or a one way ticket to hell?
First off, let me tell you right now how long it will take to complete this training with a big cat. From start to finish, if you follow this guide correctly, it will take 3 to 4 years before you actually have sexual intercourse with a big cat. However after this you can continue to have sex with him/her for all the years to come after that without any real need for more training.
If you were ever under the assumption you could train a big cat to have sex with you in a few hours, you are deadly mistaking and attempting to do this will most likely get you killed.
Understanding why it takes such a long time is maybe the biggest part in the entire guide. Biggest part of the relation between you and an animal are created in the first two years of the animal’s life and you will need to know your future sex partner from the very beginning of his/her life. This will increase your chances a lot and make any training, sexual or not, a lot easier.
If you feel that the relation with an already adult animal you own is already good enough then you can attempt skipping the chapters about the cub training and jump right to the chapter you want. Your animal will have missed a lot of preparation however and it cannot be guaranteed he/she will accept any sexual advances from you in the first place.
Before we can do anything you obviously need the cub we will be training. Whether you want to breed for this purpose or let nature take its course and see what happens is up to you and your morals. When you have a pregnant tigress, make the preparations for the cub’s birth and when the big day comes we can move on.
10. The start of a beautiful friendship
After the cub is born, don't go be all loving and pull the little critter away from its mom just after its birth. This can both be traumatic for the cub, as can it completely ruin the relationship you have with the mother. The mother will not be pleased if you take her cub away this early after birth, so to avoid both these problems, give mother and cub some time with each other and wait until both are ready to be separated for small amounts of time. Since cubs are born with their eyes closed and only open then after a week or so, wait at least one month before actually getting the cub close and personal with you and spend frequent time with them on a daily basis in the meantime.
This is probably a good time to point out that when you have cubs, you should not consider them living objects you will eventually have sex with. When taking care for and raising the cubs, consider them as your own little furry pets, a life friend and the cutest thing alive. Just as you would consider any other pet you had in the past. The sexual side of things won't even show in a year or two, maybe even three. So until then, take care of your little furry friends without even thinking of that.
Waiting at least two months for personal contact is the minimum (except for the medical shots and other essential stuff you might have to take them out for) but six months is preferred. Make sure that you hang out with them plentiful in the mean time. Spend at least a couple of hours with them every single day, but keep in mind that you have more souls to think about then just the cubs. With the new strain of young ones, the mother might want some time for herself every now and then, so be a nice chap and let her have it when you notice her getting annoyed by your presence. A fun and educational thing to do, is making a video diary. Station a video camera somewhere around the exhibit, and make daily recordings of the cubs as they spend their first two months. This is both fun to watch back in a few years time, and it is useful to big cat behaviour study, be it personal or for third parties.
11. Two months old
Okay, so your cubs are now two months old and can halfway take care of themselves. Their eyes are now open and their vision is now clear. Now they will be able to identify you not only by smell, but also by vision.
Before you do anything else, know that two months is the absolute minimum. If you want to keep the risk of having any complications to minimum, wait until they are at least six months old. By this time, the mother will stop nursing them in any case and you won’t have to worry about her rejecting them. It’s your judgement. It’s understandable that you want to start interacting with your cubs as fast as possible, but never forget that their welfare goes first, your desires come way second.
If you are going to play it safe you can skip the next bit if you want, and read on at ‘Six months old’.
Now, if you insist on starting interaction at the two month mark, you should realize a few things. I don’t recommend it for various reasons. First of all, the cub is very vulnerable; it still has a very fragile body. Secondly, this early on the mother will identify her own cubs by her own scent. Taking them out of the cage and in direct contact with yourself will put your scent on them and the mother is likely to reject the cubs for any future nursing if she can no longer detect her own scent. You can of course nurse the cubs yourself which in turn will give you even more interaction with them, but it is in the cub’s best interest if he/she is nursed by its mother.
When you want to take the cub out of the cage for the first time, separate it from the mother using a second cage. Make sure there are open bars between the two cages so the mother can still see how her cub is doing. Remember that the mother will at all times decide whether or not you are allowed near the cub. Keep a close eye on her behaviour. You can now enter the cage holding the cub and SLOWLY advance to it. While doing this, keep a very close eye on the mother. If she starts to become wild, angry or nervous, back off from the cage and reunite her with her cub. If she does react fierce, then just leave them be and come back the next day and try again. Keep trying once a day until the mother allows you to be near the cub.
Note: It can happen that the mother will not allow you near the cub at all. This will depend, among other things, on your relationship with the mother. The better the relation, the better she will trust you to be near her cubs.
When you get near, kneel down next to the cub and carefully extend your arm to pet it softly. The cubs are still young and still very little. So be careful, also keep watching the mother to see how much she will allow.
Notch up the interaction with the cub slowly, day by day. Start out with some very gentle petting, and very slowly trough the course of weeks work your way up to where you can pick the cub up and have it on your lap. Never, while the cub is this young, take it out of the cage and out of the mother’s sight. This can be traumatic for the cub, and can make the mother be very mad at you.
Keep interacting with the cub, paying attention to the mother and building relation with both, until the cub is six months old.
12. Six months old
Around the six month mark, the mother will usually stop nursing the cubs and they will be able to eat and digest solid foods such as small pieces of meat. This does not mean the mother doesn’t take further care of them, however. She will keep looking out for them and protecting them for another year or so, but the cubs will no longer depend on her for their food. They now depend on you. So make sure you take proper care for them.
By now the playfulness of the cubs should surface and if you already started interaction with them at the two month mark, you might just become their playing friend whenever you're around. Have some fun with them, but don’t forget that for now you are still stronger then they are. They will be stronger then you in a few months, but for now play carefully.
Here is where it gets a tad more fun for you. If you want, you can now take one cub along with you for short periods of time. The goal here is to make the cub get trusted with you by itself, and be comfortable with you without the protection of the mother being present. Don’t take multiple cubs at the same time and never take them with you if either the mother or the cub shows clearly that it doesn’t want you to.
Fair warning; Tigers can't exactly be house broken like dogs can. Especially when their young, be prepared to clean up a bit after them and preferably don't take them inside your house or anything like that.
Make sure you have a special room where you can perform all future training and – when the training is complete – to have sex. Make sure you have privacy and make sure to have the following items present in the room: blankets, a chair, a lockable door, a phone, a first aid kit and if you really don’t want to take any chances with the animal you could choose to have a dart gun with a sedation dart in case things get out of hand at some point. Put the emergency number on speed dial on the phone in case you need it quickly. If available, it would be good to have a sink with some anti-bacterial soap standing by as well. But it isn’t a needed requirement as you can just walk to a nearby sink if you don’t have one in the room.
Let’s move on. When you have the cub alone in the room, sit down on the chair and take it on your lap. Let it wander around a bit and pet it a bit while it does so. If the cub wants to get off your lap, carefully put it back on the ground. Don't try to hang on to it and force it to stay there. That will only make any future bonding harder.
Keep taking the cub separate a few minutes a day. Always take it to the same place and don't do anything extremely out of the ordinary. After a while when it starts to get trusted and comfortable with you, you can extend the time. Keep the cub with you a few minutes longer and slowly build up the time. Add about a minute and a half to the interaction every second day until you can keep the cub with you for 20 minutes. Don't forget to see how the mother reacts to the absence of her cub. If she doesn't like it, notch the time down a bit until she settles down and try going up again. Getting to the 20 minute mark can take as little as two weeks, but can just as easy take two months. It depends on the cub, the mother and the relation you have with both.
13. Sexual Comfort
When you eventually reach the 20 minute mark with success (the cub is comfortable on your lap and the mother is calm) you can start extending your interaction. Petting the cub is important because it lets the animal get used to you touching him/her. But to eventually have sex with this animal in a few years, it will have to be comfortable with you touching everywhere, including the genitals.
When you have the animal on your lap, take your hands of it to make sure it's comfortable and has no intent of wanting to move anywhere else. When it's comfy, start petting it softly over the head. Carefully extend your petting strokes to the neck and to the full length of the back until you are petting it from the head to the base of the tail. Keep doing this for a bit and see how your cub reacts to it. Since you have been petting the cub for quite some time now, it should be fine with it, but if it isn't comfortable with the petting for whatever reason, stop and try again tomorrow.
When the cub likes the petting, keep it up for a small while and then extend your petting strokes to the tip of the tail. See how the cub likes it, and act accordingly if it gets uncomfortable.
Keep this up for a small while again then return the cub to its cage. The next day you go a step further. Again stroke the cub from head to tail, but this time when your hand reaches the tail, close your hand around it and let it slide trough, don't pull it!
Note: Doing this can be slightly arousing to some people. The second you start feeling aroused, stop what you're doing and return the cub to the cage. Being aroused can in some cases blur your ability to think straight because all you can think about is sex, which might result in doing stuff to/with the cub you might regret. Getting a 'blur' while being aroused is a perfectly normal reaction. Some have it, some don't. But you don't want to get a 'blur' when that cub is around. So in its best interest, return it to its cage when you start getting aroused, masturbate somewhere if you want, and then try again. Make sure to wash your hands after you're done though as scent can play a large part in the training.
Keep sliding the cubs tail trough your hand for the next three to four sessions you have with the cub. Remember that I recommend only one session each day, so that would make four days.
After those four days, things will get a little (just a little) more 'fun'. Start out by stroking the cub and sliding its tail trough your hands again a few times. Make another stroke from head to tail, but this time when you reach the base of the tail, go past it and briefly stroke the cub over his/her genitals. Don't grab the penis or the balls. Don't try to stimulate the vagina with a finger. Just stroke over the genitals with a flat hand like you petted the rest of the body. Don't pay any special attention to the genitals either in terms of keeping your hand down there tad longer. The strokes need to be fluid and constant without interruptions.
Doing this is merely meant for the cub to get comfortable with you touching his/her genitals. The fact remains that the cub is still way too young to even be thinking about reproducing so do not go any further then stroking.
Note: Again, if you feel you are getting aroused, return the cub to the cage.
14. Growing… growing… and growing…
By the time you made it this far, your cub will probably have reached the age of at least eleven months, depending on how much time it took for the cub to get comfortable with you. I'm going to assume the cub is around one year old right now. It will by now barely be able to fit on your lap, so to save you a pair of broken legs lets not do that any more.
When you made it this far, you have successfully laid a foundation for a 'sex training'. If your cub is already past the age of one and still isn't comfortable with you touching its genitals, don't worry. It will be another few years before the animal is ready to have sex anyway, so you have plenty of time to get it right. Once the animal is comfortable (or even enjoying) you touching its genitals, you can move on.
When the animal has had its first birthday, you can start worrying a little less about the mothers influence. She will be a lot less protective over the cub, but will still look out for it from time to time. If you did everything correct and you kept the mother on your good side, everything should be fine and you won't have to worry about her at all anymore.
Keep having your daily sessions with the animal. You can expand the time little by little if you want, or break up the sessions into two parts a day. Just make sure you have enough time left to do other work such as feeding and cleaning. The training of the animal should never become your first priority. Your first priority should be taking good care of them. Second priority should be taking good care of yourself and training the cub to have sex with you can then be a third priority.
Now, you have at least two more years to go before your trainee is ready to 'graduate'. So let’s make the meantime useful and teach the cub as many cool tricks as we can.
For the next six months you will thicken the bond you have with your animal. Keep stroking the animal's privates in the daily sessions, but don't restrict yourself to sitting down anymore. Get up and move around. Play around with your cub a bit, wrestle, chase, etc.
Note: Be careful though, your cub is growing fast and will continue to do so for the next two years. He will soon become (or already is) a lot stronger then you. Always make good judgements about the emotions of your animal and make sure you can play with him in a save way. A wrestle match with a tiger can end very bloody when done at the wrong time.
While playing with your cub, make an occasional stroke over its genitals. By now you can also start spending a bit more time on them. Never keep your hand back there for more then a few seconds though.
Keep this up until the animal reaches the age of 1 year and 6 months. Around this age you might start to notice that your animal is in fact enjoying being stroked down there. This doesn't mean the animal is sexually mature, mind you. It's just starting to enjoy the feeling.
This is where you can go up a level. Keep doing your daily sessions as you have been doing them for the past six months, but now spend one session a week specifically on stimulating that nice feeling your animal has been having. Remember that stimulation is something different then masturbation… masturbation is for when the animal is sexually mature.
In case of male cats, stroke your hand over the genitals like you normally would, but this time keep your hand in place longer then normally and see how your animal reacts. When he likes what you are doing, use the back of two fingers to stroke the length of his penis. Keep stroking up and down from his balls to the tip of his penis softly and slowly. Occasionally stroke his balls as well. Do not attempt to pull the sheath back, as your animal might not be ready for that just yet and it could cause permanent damage to the penis as the sheath and penis are still joined together for now.
In case of female cats, stroke your hand over the genitals like you normally would, but this time keep your hand in place longer then normally and see how your animal reacts. When she is enjoying your presence back there, use a finger to carefully massage her vagina; you could choose to use some spit to smoothen things up a bit. Keep massaging her vagina, but do not shove your finger inside. She is not mentally and not physically ready for that at this age.
While you are stimulating either gender, there is a third option you may want to try. If you want to try giving your cats anal intercourse in the future, then now is the time to start getting them used to it. Do note that cats (or any animal for that matter) are very unlikely to accept anal sex or stimulation, but it can never hurt to see how they will react to it. Start by wetting all fingers but your thumb with spit. You can choose to use a little bit of lube as well if your mouth starts to feel dehydrated. Now use one finger to start out with and carefully massage the cat's anus. If he/she doesn't appear to shy away from that just yet, you can keep adding some fingers to the massaging until you're using all four. Do NOT enter a finger inside. Doing that might just give the animal reason enough to pull away and slap you silly.
Anal stimulation should be handled extremely careful, as animals don't usually use that part of their body for sexual purposes, meaning they will actually have to be taught that. And of course they will need to like it in the first place.
Don't enter anything in either the vagina or the anus and also refrain from pulling back a male cat's sheath, the animal is not ready for this and your sexual relation with the animal might not be tight enough yet to permit this. Entering fingers and the like should only be done when the animal has reached sexual maturity. I will cover that part once we get to it.
Note: Make sure your hands and fingers are firmly cleaned with anti bacterial soap when actively stimulating any of the genitals. Infections can be lethal to the animal and if you're down on your luck your vet might start asking you very uncomfortable questions.
In addition, when stimulating the anus, never start stimulating the vagina directly after that. Always approach the vagina with clean hands!
15. Staying in control
Merely stimulating a big cat is probably enough to get you aroused. You could stop doing what you're doing when you start feeling aroused, but from here it will be as much of training for yourself as much as it will be for the animal. If you are serious about wanting to make love to a big cat, you need to be able to fully control yourself when horny. It's more important then you might think, because failure to do so might get you killed one day.
If you're not completely sure if you have what it takes to control yourself when your horny, try writing down the things you want to get done and putting the paper in a spot where you can see it. For example:
- Stroke and pet
- Massage vagina
- DO NOT ENTER A FINGER!
This might sound extreme, but you can seriously lose the ability to think clearly when you're extremely horny. And I can guarantee you that if you are stroking your fingers over a tigress's vagina; you'll become extremely horny in an instant.
Another (much more easier and pleasing) way to avoid losing control is masturbating before you go to stimulate the animal, although this does not teach you to stay in control when you do get horny. It simply eliminates the problem, which is good for now, but is not always as reliable. Make sure to wash your hands when you do this though.
16. The waiting game
From this point onward, it will be another long wait until you can take the lessons up a level. Keep doing the daily sessions and the one special weekly session with the animal where you actively stimulate the genitals. Continue this for a whole year. No matter how eager you are to take it to the next level, the animal is not ready for this yet and you can’t do anything more then stimulating until the animal is sexually mature. You might want to try doing two special sessions each week instead of one, but two should be the absolute maximum and should also depend on the animal’s reaction to the stimulating. Remember to keep a close eye on emotions, don’t force anything!
I should also note that, if possible, it’s best to change the times you have your sessions every day. This to make sure that the animal won’t start to see sexual stuff as a routine rather then a pleasure. Vary the times, one day have a session in the morning, next day have a session in the evening etc.
A year can go by very fast as long as you’re having fun. And what is more fun then having a cat around you that allows you to play with its privates once or twice a week? Just sit out the year and keep doing your stuff like you always do. I must say this again though: Do not make this guide a priority when taking care of your cats.
One short year later, when the animal has reached the age of 2 years and 6 months, you can make an attempt at going up a level. This still won’t involve any actual sex or masturbation, but it will get you closer then you have been so far.
Again, first make sure that the animal is comfortable with what you have been doing so far. If you see signs that show this isn’t the case, then you should wait with going up a level until the animal is comfortable with it.
At the current age, your animal is now getting closer and closer to their sexual maturity. You’re far from reaching your goal though, you still have an entire year to go, but all the training you did the last two years should start to show off little by little.
So, whenever you’re ready, let’s proceed.
The goal of the next and hopefully last year of the training will be to make the animal comfortable with your sexual advances, as well as teach the animal on how to behave when making sexual advances of its own. We will cover the acceptance of oral sex, mounting behaviour and other side stuff that might be interesting to know.
Before we do anything however, I remind you again that you are dealing with an animal that by now is probably twice your size, five times your own weight and twenty times as strong as you. And it’s still growing! Needless to say, be extremely careful. No matter how good the relationship is between you and your animal, it only takes one mistake to get yourself killed or seriously wounded.
Before we go on with any of the guides below, it is important that the animal is comfortable with you while you are naked. As this is the eventual goal, getting this right is crucial, and it’s not as easy as you might think.
The animal is in fact likely to almost ignore the fact that you’re naked in the first place. Having clothes on or being totally naked means very little to an animal. The thing that makes this tricky is that you are likely to become very nervous and maybe even a little bit fearsome. Clothing has become an extra layer of skin to humans in the past few million years. It keeps us warm, it can function as a very thin body armour and it generally just makes you feel save to have clothing on. When you are naked, you feel vulnerable. No matter if you get naked to take a shower, or to make love to your wife or husband.
When you are standing naked in the same room as a large predator which could possibly kill you, that is both arousing and extremely scary; the problem is that animals can sense if a person is nervous or scared, and their instinct might act on this. For that reason, you need to get used to being naked around the animal just as much as the animal has to get used to it. You need to get to a point where you can enter the room with your animal and take off your clothes without having any sign of major fear. It’s okay to be a little nervous, but no more then just a little.
The best way to get you both used to that situation is to take things step by step, just as we have been doing for the last few years.
Next time you take the animal in for one of its ‘special’ sessions, do what you normally do, but take your shirt off in the process so that you have a naked chest. Sit back for a bit, and if the animal is interested let it explore your naked chest. If it’s not directly interested, see if you can get it interested by keeping your chest close to its head. Don’t force yourself onto the animal, but give it a fair opportunity to explore you. When it loses interest, or won’t show any interest at all, you’re on the right track. Finish the session normally, and then repeat this again the next day.
The goal is to make sure that the animal doesn’t have a sudden change of behaviour when you get naked, as this could put you in unexpected situations. Therefore, when the animal is not interested, or surprised, to see you naked, you are on the right way.
When the animal has shown a total lack of interest for one or two ‘special’ sessions, you can move on to your pants.
Strip down to the point where you are wearing nothing but your underwear. If you are getting horny by getting naked in front of this large predator, he/she will pick up on it even with your underwear still on. When the animal detects that you’re getting horny, it might start sniffing around between your legs. Don’t shy away, the odds of something bad happening are very low at this point, especially if the past two years of training went as they should have. Instead, just try and enjoy having a mighty big cat sniffing around in your crotch, but don’t get carried away!
As the animal is exploring you, you can continue the special session as you normally would. Mess around with the animal’s privates a bit as you are being explored, then end the session.
17. Oral Sex – Receiving
Alright, let’s get this one out of the way first.
I’ll start from a male’s point of view. Some say they would absolutely love to receive oral sex from a big cat. The truth however, is that a big cat giving you oral sex will leave you sore for hours, after which you will probably never do it again. And those who own a housecat who likes to lick your hand know exactly why that is.
Any cat’s tongue is designed with sandpaper like texture, meant to scrape flesh remains off of bones. Now picture a tongue that is meant to scrape meat off of bones, licking over your penis. Had some time to picture it? Not a very pleasant thought after all, is it? And on top of that, if you would like to try it anyway, the training methods required to make this work are enough to make any average guy pass out. But I will cover that in a moment.
Now, for the ladies, this might be a different story. The sandpaper like texture of a feline’s tongue could actually be a very pleasing sensation to a female. This might differ from person to person though.
Alright, now that we got the theoretical stuff out of the way, let’s get busy. How do you get a feline to give you oral sex? There isn’t really a standard way to do it. It depends completely on the animal to what triggers it to start licking you down there. For some the scent of your genitals is enough to make them curious, if that’s the case you are in luck. If not, then try using a form of lure. As you can use peanut butter for dogs, you can use a piece of meat to attract a big cat.
Note: Do NOT use raw meat for this. It can get you very nasty infections! Preferably use meat you buy at a store, such as a slice of sausage. This can still get you an infection, but it’s not as risky as using the raw meat you feed your cats. Always be sure to firmly clean yourself after bringing your genitals in touch with (raw) meat.
Once you have the animal's attention, let it have its way with you as far as you want to allow. When you had enough, slowly back off and push the animal away. If you two have a good relation, it will get the hint and stop what it’s doing. From here you need to decide if you want to repeat what you just did or not. For some it can be to painful, for some it can be extremely pleasing. If you liked it and want to train the animal in doing this more often, get a small piece of meat (no more then a little ‘block’ the size of a brownie) to reward the animal. If you don’t want to continue training the animal in doing this, just zip up and finish the session.
Note: When rewarding your animal in training, not only sexual training but also everyday normal training, keep your animal’s health in mind. The meat rewards may seem like a snack, but just like with us humans, too many snacks make you fat. So if you give your animal a lot of meat rewards on a day, decrease the amount of meat the animal gets for dinner, to meet the normal daily total average.
Continue your sessions, and continue training your animal in giving you oral. Feel free to have it lick you to an orgasm but be careful not to lose your guard when you climax. Surprising the animal might trigger a fierce or sudden reaction which you do not want with a feline’s head in your crotch.
The animals training in giving oral sex can be stopped when you no longer need to lure it any more. You might want to create a certain gesture or sign to show your animal what it is expected to do, since merely standing there naked can mean multiple things as you teach it to do more stuff. To teach the animal to associate a certain sign with a certain action, you make sure you give that sign every time you start the training. After a few sessions, also teach the animal not to do anything unless you give that certain signal. If you have a good relation with your animal, it won’t be much harder then training a dog.
Getting your animal to give you oral on command is your first major accomplishment. From now on you can just let your animal give you oral when you want, just don’t forget to reward it. The animal is expecting to get a reward for its efforts, so make sure he/she gets it. Also, don’t overdo the oral bit. You still have other things to train.
18. Oral Sex – Giving
A much more fun thing to do if you ask me. Pleasure the animal by using your mouth on those sweet spots. Unfortunately, getting to the point where you can actually do this is as hard as the final result is fun. Big cats, especially the males, are usually not very fond of having others sniffing around at their privates, let alone it involving one’s mouth. Basically, the better your relation with the animal, the easier and faster this will go.
Before we go on, you need to realize very well that when you give oral to a big cat, you are in a VERY vulnerable position. When the animal is standing or lying on its stomach, it takes him/her less then a second to turn around, slap you silly or lunge at your throat. And maybe a millisecond longer when he/she is on it’s back. So when you give oral, you better make damn sure the animal is enjoying itself and that you don’t hurt it. This is a literal case where one mistake can be fatal!
Also, having a second person present to monitor is not required but it is recommended for your own savety.
Note: There is no real ‘save’ way to approach a big cat’s genitals with your mouth or your own genitals. The risk of it getting pissed at you will always be there, and that’s a risk you will have to be willing to take. All you have to trust on is the relationship you have with the animal. Which basically should be enough, but you can never forget about the animal’s instinct. Never take anything for granted when handling big cats, be it normally or sexually.
18.1. Giving - Male Cats
What’s more fun then sucking on that pink delight? Getting f***** by it, probably, but we’ll get to that later. Right now, we want to know how you can safely give a male cat a blowjob without it biting your head off.
Everything leads back to trust on this one. The cat needs to know you won’t hurt it back there and it needs to know that having your mouth that close to his tool is actually a very nice feeling. Screw this up the first time and your chances of ever getting it right drop down dramatically. Just remember this very easy rule: Teeth = possible death. If possible, practise giving blowjobs to a human partner first, to get a good feel on how to keep your teeth out of reach. It’s very easy to make a slip up with your teeth, so if you can give a toothless blowjob to a human partner, a big cat should be relatively easy, as their penis is a lot smaller.
Now, on to the actually training. First of all your head needs to gain access to the area underneath the tail. To get there, you first need to raise the tail. And that already it a lot harder to do then you might think. If you’re lucky, the cat will raise his tail by itself when you start stroking his privates. But if he doesn’t, you will need to lift it. Depending on what the cat allows you to do, it might stand still or it might turn away from you. But if the training and the special sessions went as they should have, he should be realy enjoying you stroking him over his privates and lifting his tail in the process.
Pay close attention to his behaviour as you stroke. The position of his ears, the sounds he might be making, the behaviour of his tail. Make sure he’s happy with what you are doing, then make a ‘screenshot’ of his behaviour in your mind. You will soon be advancing your mouth to his privates and you need to make sure the behaviour on that screenshot doesn’t change drastically as you advance downwards.
While you are stroking his privates, move your other hand to the far end of his back, to the base of his tail. Stroking him there might call a reaction of raising his tail completely and curling his back a little. That’s fine, the important part is that he doesn’t turn around or pull away. Stroke him there a few times with your other hand, and if he hasn’t moved, or changed behaviour, then you’re free to move on.
Now use that same hand to stroke his left hind leg flank (or the right one, if you’re stroking his penis with your left hand), while slowly getting on your knees. Keep a close eye on his behaviour, if it makes a drastic change, get back up and try again, more subtle.
Once you are down on your knees, keep stroking the animals flank, and then slowly rest your chin on the far end of his back where you were stroking him earlier. Keep in mind that this probably calls the same reaction as your hand, so don’t accidentally bite your tongue when he arcs up his back and tail. Again, watch his reaction and behaviour and act appropriately when necessary. When again there is no big behaviour change, you are clear to move on.
Keep stroking his privates while you gently slide your head down to his flank which you were stroking with your hard earlier. Place this hand somewhere on the ground preferably, with a tight grip so you can get up fast if needed. Things are getting risky now, so be prepared to dodge an angry reaction, but as stated before, try not to show you’re afraid.
As you slide your head to his flank, keep brushing your cheek against his fur and see how he reacts. Major behaviour change? Back off, repeat everything again until you’re in the clear.
Now this is where it gets fun, but this is also the most risky part. When you’re in the clear, slowly move your stroking hand away from his privates, and advance your head to it very gently. You’re going to lose sight of his head for a bit as you get behind him, so pay extra attention to the tail. If it suddenly start swaging after it has been still, or vice versa, stop what you are doing and get up to see what’s wrong. Take a close look at the animals head and ears. See if it’s still happy, and track the position of the ears. Up is good, flat is bad.
When you are sure you’re in the clear, get back down there and carefully move your mouth to his sheath. Don’t cling your hands on his sides, but try holding on to a wall, gate or table to keep your balance.
If you are still certain that the animal is still enjoying itself, you can give the opening of his sheath a small lick with your tongue. Look up to see his head and note his reaction. Repeat licking his sheath a few times, doing it a little longer and a little firmer each time, and check his reaction after each lick.
This might be the part where the fun ends and the animal starts to get annoyed. If that’s the case, just back off, end the session for the day and give the animal a reward for allowing you to get this close. This will show the animal that it did well by allowing you to do that, and maybe next time you get an opportunity to go further.
When you still are in the clear, however, you can start the real deal. Keep monitoring the animal's reaction, and use a free hand to gently pull his sheath back. This should be the very first time you’re pulling his sheath back, if you followed this guide correctly, so keep a very close eye on his behaviour. You know the drill when you get the red light.
When you pulled his sheath back enough to expose the majority of his penis (be careful not to hurt him) make a quick note to see if it’s erect or not. With all the stroking, you have a nice chance that it is. If it’s not, that’s not a big deal for now, as long as you managed to get it out of the sheath.
Here comes the fun part. Even though the animal is not yet truly ready for sex, we’re going to give him a little preview of it by giving him a real actual blowjob. This is the most important moment of the entire oral giving training. Since your mouth is not a natural way for his penis to be stimulated, it’s very new to him. How he will associate a blowjob with good or with bad in the future, is up to how you perform the very first time. Give him a very good time, and he will not mind doing it again some day. Hurt him, and you don’t even have to bother starting over.
Slowly move your lips to his tip, and make sure you use plenty of saliva. Soak your mouth and lips until you’re pretty much drooling. The more the better, chewing gum helps a lot in getting extra saliva, should you have trouble getting a lot of it. Then push your mouth over his shaft, to give him the feeling he’s penetrating a vagina. This is a safer way then just opening your mouth and taking it in, as this might have the nasty side effect of him being surprised and pulling back.
Once you’re busy, you’re busy. If you have a second person watching, make that person watch the animal's behaviour. If you’re alone, get up for short times in a row to check for yourself.
Be aware that a feline's penis is very flexible. It can move flat in almost every direction. For this reason, be careful when he twitches. If he hits your teeth, it could be game over.
Keep sucking him gently and with plenty of saliva for about a minute. Then stop, and get up. Pull his sheath back over his penis again and take a small break from touching him at all. Use this break to give him a reward for his efforts. After a few minutes, try seeing if you can go right for the prize without taking the detour around the back and flank. Just get your face right underneath his tail, gently pull back his sheath and continue where you left off. If you can duck into his crotch a few times in a row, in a few different sessions, the training is complete. HOWEVER! If the animal is not sexually mature at the time you complete this training, don’t start giving him blowjobs just yet. The only reason we did this now, is to make him associate your mouth around his penis with something good. It’s much easier to do that then when he’s sexually mature. You can give him some small 30 second blowjobs every once in a while, just to not make him forget. But that’s optional. Of course, don’t forget to reward, and think about creating a signal for him to show what you are going to do.
18.2. Giving – Female Cats
Using your mouth to pleasure a female cat is hardly any different then giving pleasure to a male cat, with the exception that the genitals are different. Also, getting to the point of acceptance is a lot easier because unlike males, females are used to having a muzzle underneath their tail every once in a while. They are more likely to just accept that.
You don’t have to worry about your teeth here either. That is, if you’re doing it the way you should. When licking a female’s vagina, don’t use anything other then your lips and tongue. If your teeth are involved you’re seriously doing something wrong. Again you would do good to practise giving oral to a female human partner before going down on your cat.
Now, let’s start the training. Unlike the male cat, you can try going right for your target with a female. Start out by just rubbing your fingers over her vagina for a while; this should make her raise her tail if she likes it. When you are clear to proceed, you can get on your knees and advance your head to her vagina. Don’t forget to keep your eye on her behaviour!
Give a few kisses on her vagina and see how she reacts. When for whatever reason she doesn’t want you around and moves away, try using the same tactic we used for a male cat. Base of the tail, flank, backside. If you still get the red light, you know the drill. Back off, give her a reward and try again some other time.
Once you are accepted by her to do what you came down there to do, you can just experiment a bit with things she might like. Keep in mind that a felines vagina is different from a human one. To my knowledge there is no clitoris, nor are the outside walls as sensitive to stimulation. She still experiences pleasure from oral stimulation, but her main area of stimulation is inside the vagina rather then outside. And unless you have a realy firm, long and flexible tongue you won’t reach that for now anyway.
Since your cat has never mated before, and is not even sexually mature on top of that, expect her to be very tight. You probably won’t be able to get your tongue in at the first place. You can try, but don’t try to force it. Also don’t think about stretching her out with your fingers, because that will only hurt her and she will in turn hurt you. Just enjoy the bittersweet taste of her jewel, let your tongue go wild down there and enjoy.
Giving oral to a female is more fun when the cat is on her back, as you won’t have your nose in her butt and you have more room. So if possible, try getting her to lay on her back and give oral that way. Also don’t forget to reward her after each successful time.
19. Sexual Maturity
We have now done everything we can do while your animal is still sexually immature. Going any further, such as actual penetration, will really have to wait until your animal starts to become sexually active.
By the time you finished the above trainings however, your animal is probably already around the age of 3, so it’s not that far away anymore. Actually, if you’re in luck your animal is already sexually active. Generally big cats become sexually active between 3 and 4,5 years of age. This is different for every cat species however, so you will have to look that up for yourself.
If you want to realy play save, you can wait with taking the next step until the animal is around 4 years of age. Then you can be pretty sure the animal is ready for sexual intercourse, be it with a human or a fellow cat.
You will have to make the judgement yourself. There isn’t realy a set age, so you can either look at behaviour around other cats (are females in heat? Are male tigers mounting females or humping objects? Ect.). When you think the animal is ready, go for it. But if you have even the slightest doubt, just wait a bit longer. You really don’t want to risk it.
For the sake of this guide, we are going to assume your animal has passed the age of 4. By this time it’s almost certain that the animal is sexually mature and ready for more intercourse, both with you as well as other animals.
For males it is not a problem to see if they are in heat, because males don’t go in heat. When a male is sexually mature, he will mount whenever he gets the chance. Their like a 24/7 walking sex machine just waiting until a female comes along and lets them do their thing.
The problems arise with females, as they only go into heat for small periods of time throughout the year and there is no set time for this to happen like with other mammals. One year it can happen 4 times in all seasons, next year it only happens 3 times in 2 seasons, for example.
To see if a female is in heat, there are a few things you can do. First of all you can check the female’s vagina. When she is in active heat it might appear somewhat swollen and it will stand out more so then usual. But this is never something you should solely base your decision on. Next you should see how she behaves around mature males. When she is in heat, she will squirm on the ground near the male, chuff repeatedly and will lie down on the ground inviting the male to mount her.
When those two things are happening, you have confirmed the female is in heat and ready to go.
A nice note is that females don’t always necessarily have to be in heat to accept sexual approaches from a human partner. It will help a great deal if they are, but when they genuinely enjoy the sexual contact they won’t mind having sex outside their heat.
[Last part of the guide, first post got cut off...]
20. Sexual Intercourse – General
Having intercourse with males and females is very different and one is much more dangerous then the other. Therefore both genders will obviously have their own guides, but there are some things you need to secure before getting down and dirty with either gender. Unlike the training, the actual intercourse is going to be a lot more dangerous and the risks of a fatal accident are a lot higher if you don’t know what you are doing, or don’t do it properly. Keep these things in mind before going any further.
1. You have to be absolutely sure that the animal trusts you with sexual advances. If at any point in the last 4 years you felt that the animal was not comfortable, especially the last year, do not make any attempts to have intercourse and continue with the training until you are absolutely sure the bond is strong enough to proceed.
2. Always make sure the animal trusts you, but never fully trust the animal. With the positions you are going to be in, it would be a foolish thing to take 100% trust in the animal. No matter how good friends you are, big cats are wild animals who still have unpredictable behaviour, no matter how much training they have had. Never assume anything and judge situations at that time instead of looking at previous ones to make a judgement.
3. The animal is always in control. You might be able to have your tiger give you a blowjob on command, and you might be able to have it lay down on its back on command. But when it comes to actual intercourse, you are the one taking commands. Try to force a tiger into sex and you won’t even have time to regret it. It is not your call when to have sex, that’s the animal’s call. And if complete the next training the right way, there is a good chance the animal will ask you for sex on a regular basis. Basically it should not be a matter of ‘I’m going to have sex with that tiger’. It should be: ‘I’m going to see if that tiger is in the mood to have sex with me’.
4. Keep your partner animal out of sight from other animals. When having intercourse with your animal, make sure other animals are not around to watch. Especially in male/female combinations, one could perk the interest of the other and trigger instincts you do not want triggered at that time. Also when taking the animal separate for a session, give it 10 minutes to adjust to the situation. The animal should recognize the difference between normal everyday life and the sex sessions. Both have their own rules and the animal should have picked up on that during the 4 years of training. There is no true way of making sure of this however, so always be on guard for significant behaviour changes.
5. And last but not least, always inform someone about where you are. You don’t necessarily have to tell them exactly what you are going to do, but when something goes wrong you will want people to be able to find you no matter how embarrassing the situation is. Something along the lines of ‘I’m going down to the tiger cages for some training, if I’m not back within an hour come check on me’. This of course works a lot better when you have a second person who helped you with the training in the first place.
Those are the things you need to remember for now and the future. Depending on the situations or things not described here you might need to create additional matters to pay attention to every time.
20.1. Sexual Intercourse – Male Human / Female Cat (Giving)
Let’s start with the most obvious combination.
One of the biggest obstacles to overcome here is to teach the female cat not to react aggressively while having intercourse. During natural mating between two cats it is believed that the aggressive reaction is caused by the barbs on the male’s penis that hurt the female. Even though this is a fair assumption, it is not for certain this is the case. Another theory is simply that the female is in charge of the mating and that the aggression is her way of telling the male to stop it.
Now, a females mating aggression can be anything from simple growling to downright attempts to maul her mate with complete use of claws and teeth. Because you are going to be the one having intercourse with her, you want to be absolutely sure this kind of behaviour does not happen. Even though you can never assume (see rule 2) it won’t, we can at least try to keep it to a minimum. The key to doing this is trust. Just like when giving oral to a male cat, the female needs to know that if she gives the red light, you will stop what you are doing immediately. If she knows this, she is unlikely to resort to violence to get her point across. Getting this right requires a lot of discipline and time from you. Every single time she gives you a red light, you need to be able to walk away immediately, even when you’re two seconds away from an orgasm. It requires huge control over your arousal and this might require some practise. I will share some methods to get good control over your arousal when we get to the point where we need it. But basically the same rules apply as in the early days of training.
Now, let’s get on with the best but hardest training so far.
When your female cat is 4 years old, she is likely to be sexually mature and will experience her first heat soon. When she gets in heat, bring her inside to the area where you always do training. Get naked, grab a chair and sit down. Don’t do anything. Just sit there with her in the same room and let her adjust to the situation for a while.
Because of her heat she is in deep want of sex. And right now she is in the same room where she just had 4 years of sexual training. If you’re lucky, she will add 1 + 1 together and come to the conclusion that she might be able to get what she wants from you. Let her wander around for a while and see if she works it out. If she does, she will soon be squirming on the floor, begging you for attention, maybe even bluntly offering herself to you.
If she doesn’t, however, you could try to see if you can hint her. Try rubbing your hand over her vagina a bit to see how she reacts, then sit back and wait a few minutes again. Repeat this until she gets the point and offers herself.
You can not continue the training unless she offers herself to you, as this is the only natural thing. She instinctively knows she is only going to get sex when she offers herself. No male is going to risk getting bitchslapped in 17 different ways just to get laid.
The time it takes for her to offer herself to you can vary a big deal. It depends on a lot of things; how much training you guys went trough, how good the bond is, how needy she actually is and if she is filling to accept a human partner in the first place. If you’re lucky you hit the jackpot the first heat. If you’re not lucky, it can take you another year of trying before you finally get to a point where she will consider having sex with you.
Note: When you seem to be low on success, and have to wait out various heats, do not let her be in contact with any males. Not even trough the fence as this kind of defeats the purpose of the training. She needs to realize that the only chance of having sex lies with you. It is a bit of a grey area and you as the trainer needs to decide for yourself if you want to ‘trick’ her this way.
When she offers herself to you, try to judge how ‘bad’ her heat is. The more she wants sex, the bigger your chances for success. If you want to try to raise your chances a bit, you could just tease her a bit now, and get on with the actual deed tomorrow. This is likely to make her even hornier, and it shows her that you are interested in her. That in turn might make it faster for her to offer herself the next time. But, it can just as easy work the other way around and makes her loose interest in you. So carefully judge the situation she is in and decide if it would be best to act now or a day later.
When ready to proceed, take a deep breath and make sure you have your arousal under control. Make sure you realize that you are either a few minutes away from having sex with a tigress, or a few minutes away from death or serious injury. Realize the risks attached to this and make sure you are prepared to take them. And if at the last second you decide you don’t want to take the risk; no-one is going to call you a pussy for it. It’s already a very big achievement that you have come this far.
When ready, approach her and use your hand to stroke over her vagina. She’ll likely arc her back, lie down or roll around on the floor. When she stays steady and is giving you full access, have some lubricant ready and lube up a few fingers. Rub your fingers together a bit so that the lubricant warms up a bit. This way you won’t startle her to bad. Rub a bit more over her vagina, then when you feel ready and you think she is ready, slowly and carefully try to enter your pinkie. By now you should know that big cats don’t exactly honour their name when it comes to their equipment. Therefore the female’s vagina will be quite tight.
When the tip of your finger is inside, carefully slide it in deeper and keep monitoring her reactions at all time. As much as you would like to watch at what you are doing, you need to constantly keep her reactions under observation by looking at her head, ears, whiskers and tail. When you see any form of resistance, even when you’re not sure, stop what you are doing and make sure.
Try to insert the entire length of your finger, but don’t force anything. I can not give you any guarantees as to how much a female can take in terms of depth/length. It differs from animal to animal and I simply don’t know for sure how the female’s vagina is put together, so the more reason to proceed with caution. When you hit resistance inside, it doesn’t automatically mean that’s all she can take. Try to see if you can very gently stretch her out bit by bit. But take your time, take hours for all I care, but be very careful not to hurt her. You should be able to insert your entire pinkie sooner or later without hurting her. When you do, slide it in and out a couple of times. Make good use of lubricant and continue to monitor her reactions.
When you can smoothly slide your pinkie in and out without resistance, lube up your index finger and go in again. Same story, slowly, gently and stop as soon as you doubt. Repeat the procedure with your index finger, ring finger and middle finger.
There might be a point where you run into resistance and you will not be able to stretch it up anymore. Then that point is as deep as you can go. Remember that point, as you will need it for the actual deed. If you don’t run into a point where you can’t stretch, you’re in luck. But like I said, I can not give you any guarantee as to how deep on average you can go, because I simply don’t know.
When you reach the point where you can insert your middle finger completely (or as far as you can go) and slide it in and out without problems, you can go up a step. Retract your finger and review her reaction.
Mating usually doesn’t take any longer then a few seconds. Getting to the point where you can have intercourse with her will take at least half an hour. But all we can do is hope she will stay in the mood for as long as we need her to be. But when there comes a point she isn’t in the mood anymore and is letting you know it, you need to stop right away. Then you can just wait a while. A female's heat is a very strong instinct. A female generally offers herself to a male every 10 to 15 minutes for 3 to 5 days. So you won’t have to wait that long when she gets out of the mood. Just make sure you grant her every wish. Because getting this right is vital. Better be too careful and get it right then be too greedy and have your head bitten off.
What we are doing now is figuring out how far we can go, and if she will be able to take the size of your own penis. While men usually proud themselves for having big equipment, it’s actually the men with small equipment that are best suited for intercourse with a big cat. In fact, if you have big equipment there is a fair chance you are not able to have intercourse because of your size.
The finger routine doesn’t have to be done every time, but it is good for stretching her out a bit. Going right in will just hurt her and put you in unnecessary danger.
Now that we know how deep you can go without hurting her, we need to stretch her out a bit in width. Since a male cat’s penis is usually no thicker then your pinkie, your partner will shred you to pieces if you just attempt to insert that human penis into that tight space. So, lube up your index and middle finger and repeat the routine we did earlier. Do not go to fast, make good use of lube, and take pauses each time you go deeper. The deeper you go, the more her vagina will be stretched out because of the base of your fingers. Proceed with jumps of about a centimetre, and then take a 30 second pause after each jump. This will give the vaginal walls the chance to adjust to your fingers. There is going to be a point somewhere where you can stretch no more. Be very careful with finding this point because when you go past it you can seriously hurt your partner, with all consequences along with it.
You will only need to stretch her far enough so she can accommodate the width of your penis. Generally the index and middle finger next to each other are about the width of the average penis. Don’t go further then you need to, that way you avoid taking unnecessary risks.
Note: Those familiar with anal intercourse with human partners are bound to know a thing or two about stretching the anus. Since the human anus and the big cat’s vagina are similar in tightness, a few similar techniques can be used.
When you can smoothly insert your both those fingers inside without hurting her, the hardest part is over. Take a good note of the depth and width to which you can stretch, write it down if needed, so you won’t forget for future use.
What we did now was a one time thing only. Of course feel free to masturbate her this way as much as you want, but for intercourse it’s no longer required to stretch her on a finger by finger basis. Because you now know her measurements you can (in the future) enter one finger, wiggle around to stretch her a bit, and then add a second finger as soon as her width allows that.
If everything went well, your female partner is still enjoying your company and your actions. As long as she is enjoying herself it’s all fine. Just make sure you keep it that way.
Alright now, we are getting ever closer to the real deal, just a tad longer. After you have stretched her to an acceptable level, sit back and let her recover from any exhausting feelings you gave her. If she is not exhausted, then she will immediately beg for more, but take the time anyway to recover a bit yourself and to prepare yourself for what is yet to come. Take a small 5 minute break, and then get back to work.
When your girl offers herself to you again, take her offer and approach her. She will lay down on the ground, tail erect, offering her stretched opening to you. Stroke her flanks as you sit on your knees behind her, then slide a finger up and down her vagina once more.
Before we go on, I advice you to use a condom. Not only will a condom minimize the chance for any kind of infection, it will also prevent the placement of ‘evidence’. Should you have sex with your tigress, and suddenly she does get an infection for whatever reason, and the vet examines her and finds human semen, you have a lot of explaining to do. For that reason, use a condom. It’s little trouble.
When ready, lube up your penis and her vagina. Then, while closely monitoring her, push the head of your penis into her. This is the tensest moment of all. This is where you will find out if all those years of hard work are going to pay off, and if you are going to repeat this experience.
Very VERY slowly penetrate her. Go in an inch, and then pull back. Go in two inches, and then pull back. Repeat this until you reach the point you marked earlier. If you didn’t mark a point, carefully explore how deep you can go. But if you don’t want to take any risks, go in until about half of your penis is inside.
Each time you go in, monitor how she reacts and act according to it. If you’re not sure, pull back and stand back. If your doubts turned out to be wrong she will simply offer her self again in a while and you can pick up where you left off. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
When you reach the desired depth, hold still a moment. Keep your penis inside her and let her vagina get adjusted to your penis size. About 15 to 30 seconds should do.
Always be on guard for the red light, especially when you are keeping still. Since in nature this is usually the point where the male is ejaculating and the female is known to chase him off directly after that. This should occur about 10 seconds into holding still. But, it could very well not happen at all. Just be on guard for it.
After the 15 to 30 seconds pause, carefully start to thrust into her. But don’t go wild. Be very aware of every movement you make. You can not close your eyes and throw your head back when having sex with a tigress. You have to constantly pay attention to a dozen of things. It’s like driving a car, there’s never a point where you can just sit back and relax because there are always stuff to look out for.
From here, feel free to go on long enough to orgasm. But like I said earlier, you need to be able to stop in a split second, even if you feel your orgasm building up you need to be able to pull back immediately without hesitation. Thinking ‘she wants to stop but I only need two more seconds’ is going to get you killed. If not now it will be later. Stop is stop. Not stop 20 seconds later.
If you don’t get a red light, continue until you orgasm (if you want) and then pull back. Sit back, recover from what you just did, give her a big reward and let the realisation sink in that you just f***** a tigress and survived. Congratulations on your first time!
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Especially when a female approaches you for sex outside of her heat, her mood can suddenly change in the middle of it. Always be careful, over and over again.
20.2. Sexual Intercourse – Male Cat / Female or Male Human (Receiving)
Letting a male cat have sex with you is a lot easier to generally accomplish then having sex with a female cat. After all a male cat will never pass a chance to get laid. However, sex with male cats is also twice as dangerous. Because you are going to have to be mounted, you will either be on your knees or on your back. Both are positions where you have little chance of escape if things go bad. Another thing that makes matters complicated is the fact that males are usually very aggressive when mating and have a habit of biting their lover’s neck. While this is not a problem with members of their own species, if he bites your neck you’re dead, period.
Teaching a male cat not to bite down requires extreme amounts of training and it takes a lot of risks. And even then it is not sure if it can be done in the first place. It’s one of those instincts that don’t go out so easy. But let’s give it a try anyway.
Warning: The following training method required a lot of improvisation. I have no idea if this is even remotely going to work but it is the best I could come up with next to just getting on your knees and hoping he leaves your neck alone. Use this method at your own risk!
It is believed males bite down the neck of their partner to keep them still for as long as possible. The longer the female stays in place, the more time the male has to ejaculate thus the higher the chance of the female getting pregnant. Since we are more then willing to stay in place, we are going to try and use that to our advantage. We are going to apply the ‘trust technique’ again, with the idea that if the male knows we are going to stay in place no matter what, he won’t bite down. It’s a long shot, but let’s try it anyway.
When the male is sexually mature, take him into the training area you have been using for the past 4 years. Just like with the female, the male should be able to make the link between this room and sexual stimulation. Though unlike the female, it’s not required for him to make the link in order to have sex with him. If he does make the link though, he might already get excited when you get naked. Big cats are not stupid and they will more then likely remember you giving them some oral pleasure a year or so ago. Or just yesterday, depending on how much you like doing it. If you already have been sexually active with your male cat in terms of giving him oral, then hopefully he will already have a good deal of trust in you, which will make this part of the training a lot easier.
Now, when you are naked, spread a blanket out somewhere and lie down on your back. Put your arms next to your body and just lie there doing nothing.
When your animal comes around, curious to why you are lying there so stupid, stay still. Soon, his interest might be perked further and he might start sniffing around your body, despite the fact that your scent is one of the most known one’s in his system. Don’t be scared when he sniffs your genitals, it’s part of the process and isn’t a direct danger of any sort unless his behaviour tells you it is.
While he is sniffing around reach out to him and pet him a bit to comfort him.
When your feline is comfortable he might decide to lie down next to you. Or, if he’s feeling particularly lucky and confident, might even make an attempt to mount you. This is the eventual idea. While you are lying on the ground on your back, we need to get him to try and mount you. Should he not get the hint by himself at first, try stimulating him a bit by rubbing over his penis a bit, maybe give him a blowjob if you think that will get him excited enough to attempt a mount. When you got him excited enough to mount you, make sure you are down on your back like I described earlier. Make sure your legs are closed.
He is now likely to stand over you and crouch down. Since this is the first time mounting a human, he might be totally off on direction. Chances are that he’ll be rubbing his penis over your legs or stomach instead of your crotch. But that is not a problem for now. He will soon start to thrust away in the general area of where he ended up, looking for something to penetrate. But since you have your legs closed, the closest he will come to penetrating anything is your belly button.
The point of all this is not to actually let him succeed in his mounting, but to show him that you are going to stay where you are.
After a while he will give up, and back off. If you are halfway unlucky he might lie down right on top of you, in which case you should just stay where you are unless his weight is preventing you to breathe. If you don’t have any serious problems with him using you as a bed however, don’t push him off and just enjoy having a big cat right on top of you. But eventually, one of you will get bored. If it’s him, he’ll stand up and wander away. If it’s you who is getting bored, try to make clear to him that he needs to move. Be careful in the way you do this however and do not panic when he doesn’t want to move at first. He’s in the perfect position to bite your head off right now and he doesn’t even have to get up to do it. Take your time, he’ll move eventually and he won’t get angry at you if you don’t give him reason to. So don’t go poke him around in his side hoping it will encourage him to move or gently kick him in the stomach. He will so seriously not appreciate that.
Now, assuming everything went okay and no blood was spilled, end the session and repeat what we just did the next day.
When you repeated this routine once or twice more in the following days, you are up to make an important judgement. One which I can impossibly make from here (should you be in serious doubt and want a detailed answer, feel free to drop a mail in my mailbox asking for advise). You need to judge whether or not you think you are both ready to proceed to the real thing.
If your cat has attempted to mount you in the past couple of days without any sign of aggression at all, I’d say you have a fairly good chance that he realizes he should be careful with you.
If you did catch him being a little bit aggressive before, during or after mounting, you might want to spend a few more days doing the ‘pre-humps’ and see if he stays aggressive. And if he does, there’s not much you can do about it. Sometimes that’s just something you can’t get out, that’s the instinct making this all so troublesome.
From here you will have to make the judgement to whether you want to take the risk or not. The behaviour does not automatically mean he will bite down when he actually penetrates. But needless to say there’s a bigger chance.
There’s not much more you can do from here then to just go for it and hope for the best. I wish there was more security I could offer here. But unfortunately I can’t. This is simply one of the biggest risks in this guide, and it is up to you as a trainer if you want to take it. Again, if you decide at the last minute you don’t want to take the risk, no-one will call you a coward for it. You already came a very long way.
When you are sure the chances of him biting down are to a minimum, we can proceed. Do what we did before to get ready for him to mount you. Bring him into the training room, get naked, spread a blanket and lie down on your back, legs closed. When needed, stimulate your cat a bit by rubbing his penis or giving him some oral pleasure. Lie back down when your cat is getting excited enough to mount you.
Now, spread your legs when he wants to mount, so that your legs are around his body. Soon he should start to thrust at you a bit and it is up to you to help him find his target. The best way to give him as much access as possible is to pull your legs back as far as possible so that your rear end is up to about the same height as a female’s vaginal opening. Use your arms to hold your legs back and wait for him to take a good position.
Note: This part of the guide is written for both human genders. While females should have no problem guiding the cat to the vagina, males might have to do a little bit of stretching before having the cat take you anal. Not because of the size of the cat’s equipment, but because stretching a bit will make penetration a bit easier for the cat. Also, both genders will benefit from applying lube to the area that is going to be penetrated.
The cat should find its target a lot faster with your rear end in the air like this. However, pay close attention when you are a female ‘candidate’, because in your case the cat will have the option to penetrate either the vagina or the anus. Apply any corrections to your body position if he is going for the wrong target, and then let him do the rest.
Eventually the cat will find its target. When he does, the tip of his penis will rub over it before he lines up and penetrates. Even though the average feline penis is quite small, don’t expect a careful penetration. As soon as a tiger finds a hole to f***, he jams it in there and it won’t come out until he wants it to. Especially with anal penetration that could be a bit painful when it happens in the wrong way at the wrong time. So relax your muscles, take a breath and prepare for the penetration.
When the male cat has penetrated you, enjoy the feeling of him inside you for a moment.
Note: As your will no doubt have figured out by now, a cat’s penis has barbs on it. These barbs are there to stimulate the female into ovulating and are guessed to be quite painful for the female. It is unknown if this has to do with the sensitivity of the female’s vaginal walls, or if the barbs are actually that sharp. In any case, the barbs on the cat’s penis can either be a great feeling or a bit painful. You won’t have to worry about internal injuries however; it’s not razorblades we are talking about here.
As soon as he is inside you, you will have to pay close attention to his behaviour. Depending on the size of the animal, you are likely to have your face across from his chest. Have a look up at his head and see if he is even remotely bothered by the fact that he can’t reach your neck. If everything went okay with all the other parts of the training, he should be quite okay with it as long as he has something to f***. If you are not really sure however, be ready to relocate your arms over your throat. You knew there would be a risk when you started this, but if something does happen it would be better if he shred up your arms instead of your throat. Generally you should relocate your arms when his chin is above your forehead as this still gives you a bit of a time window.
Cats usually ejaculate a few seconds after penetration and dismount another few seconds after that. Mating usually doesn’t take longer then 20 seconds with another cat. With a human partner however, it might be a lot longer since he doesn’t have to worry about a claw in his face if he stays in to long. In any case, enjoy it for as long as it lasts, and pay close attention to when he withdraws. Obviously watch his behaviour, but also keep your own body under control. The barbs might twitch your body a bit, in turn spooking the male for whatever reason.
When he has withdrawn, he is likely to simply wander away without giving any major problems and lie down somewhere, maybe cleaning his genitals. This gives you a moment to just lay there and enjoy the aftermath. The size was probably not so intense, but having a massive animal such as a tiger fucking you silly is bound to be enough to make you at least pant.
If this all went without a problem, then you can now pride yourself on just having been f***** by a tiger a survived. Congratulations on your first time!
If you enjoyed it so much that you want to go again right after it, feel free to seduce the male again after 10 minutes or so. He is likely to be more then willing to go again. Repeat the experience as much as you like for now, but never lose your guard!
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Males can be more aggressive at times. Always be careful, over and over again.
20.3. Sexual Intercourse – Male Human / Male or Female Cat (Giving)
Last but not least, giving anal intercourse to a big cat. Out of all the intercourse guides, this part is probably the most challenging to accomplish. Therefore please understand right now that the odds of this working are quite small and that the cat always has the final say in if it wants to receive anal intercourse.
For the sake of the guide, I will be referring to the feline partner as a him. But almost the exact same logic goes for female cats as well, should you want to try it with a female.
Before we start I want to make clear that anal intercourse is obviously not a natural way of mating for a feline. Attempts to approach the anus of a cat with the intent to insert something can trigger quite a sudden and aggressive response, even when done in small steps. A big cat will have to like anal stimulation from the start, otherwise it will have to be taught to like it and in my books that crosses the line of abuse. With that bit of moral out of the way, let us begin.
Bring the animal into the training area and get naked. Give him some time to get comfortable and link the area with sexual stimulation like before. This guide will work better when in the middle of doing sexual stuff, as the animal might then associate it with sexual stimulation and is in turn more likely to accept it then when you would go right for it. So, instead of going right for the anus, we are going to do a little bit of foreplay. Make sure you have plenty of time for this one session, as you will need it.
Start the foreplay any way you like. Play around with him a bit, masturbate him, give some oral, stroke him here and there and every once in a while make a stroke near and over his anus.
Note: If you already get the red light right now for doing that, then you can stop reading this part of the guide right now and just carry on with regular intercourse instead. Your cat is obviously not interested in anal stimulation if it already gets angry for rubbing.
Do whatever you want to make him cum, including having him mount you if you so desire. In case of females, you could continue until you cum yourself or just spend a nice amount of time masturbating her.
After you made the male cum once or spend a good 15 minutes pleasuring the female, wait until the animal is back up and ready to go again. With both genders it should take about 10 to 15 minutes before they are ready for another round.
Now that he’s getting into the pleasure, start round two. Stroke, masturbate, lick, do whatever you want but don’t let him mount you again. Instead, keep doing the foreplay and occasionally keep rubbing over his anus. If he doesn’t object to this touching, he probably doesn’t mind it. After you have been doing that for a while, lube up your fingers a bit and warm it up a bit so you don’t startle him. For hygienic purposes I personally recommend also wearing a latex glove as it also makes the lubricant more effective. Keep masturbating him, but as you are doing so rub your lubed up finger over his anus and keep rubbing it. The idea is to have him link the pleasant feeling of masturbation with the touch of the anus; in turn he should link it to sexual pleasure. So keep masturbating him unless you are told to do otherwise.
If he still doesn’t object to anything, try to see what happens when you put pressure on the anus. Don’t insert a finger just yet, but gently push on the opening a bit and carefully monitor his response. Should he draw away from you, follow him and try once more. If then still he doesn’t want to, then consider it a red light and end the training. Should he react with aggression however, then end the training immediately.
If everything remains to go well and the animals shows no sign of objection, keep putting pressure on the anus a little longer while still masturbating him. After having done this for another five minutes, you can see if you are allowed to insert the tip of your finger. Add some extra lube and carefully push it inside. This could make him go crazy, so be on your highest guard when doing this. If it doesn’t, however, it becomes saver and saver to say that you are in luck and he actually likes anal stimulation.
Proceed to slide the tip of your finger, no more then a nail’s length, in and out of his anus for about five minutes. Should no problems arise, increase the length and slide half your index finger inside and keep it there for about half a minute. Remember, if at any time you get the red light, stop what you’re doing.
After the 30 seconds, pull it back out and gently proceed to finger him for another five minutes, while still masturbating him. Try to see if you can go deeper each time you go in, but do it in very little steps!
When the five minutes are over, remember how deep you managed to go with him and remember that point. If you were in luck, you managed to insert your entire finger. This is possible in theory but the animal might not like it that deep, so we’ll go with the depth you marked earlier. Write it down somewhere, and then go back to your animal and lube up a second finger to stretch him out a bit. While the feline anus is generally less tight then the feline vagina, it can still do with some stretching. If you have any ‘stretch’ toys, feel free to give them a try. Carefully insert your two fingers or the toy, use plenty of lube and slowly slide your fingers deeper inside. When you feel resistance, stop right there and keep your fingers where they are for about 30 seconds. This should give the anal muscle some time to adjust to the width of your fingers.
Carefully go deeper, take your time, until you reach the depth point we marked. Should you still haven’t received a red light, it’s save to say you have one of the few felines that likes anal stimulation! Lucky you!
Now, have a check to see if your feline is still in the mood for more. After all this it wouldn’t be surprising if he was getting a bit bored or lost interest. If this is the case, leave him be for now. Instead, proceed with the next bit the next day after you have done the required stretching. Obviously it doesn’t have to be as lengthy as we just did, but do make sure you take your time in stretching him properly or you might hurt him.
When your feline is ready for more, it’s time for the real deal. Rid yourself of the glove you were wearing, quickly wash your hands if you can and then return to your feline lover. With him now being stretched to an acceptable width, he should be able to cope with the size of your penis. And if he didn’t mind the fingers in his rear, he should have little problems with having your penis in there instead.
When you are ready, take position behind him and be sure to wear a condom to avoid infections. If he enjoyed the anal stimulation, he might arc his back or even raise his tail by himself and encourage you to give more. But even if this doesn’t happen, it doesn’t mean he isn’t okay with it. So, lift the tail out the way and curl it so that the tip comes near to his spine, as this gives better access to the anus. Hold it in place with one hand and masturbate him with the other. Now, when ready you can lube up your penis and his anus and prepare for the penetration. Rub your penis’ tip over his entrance and if no objections arise, carefully push your tip inside. Remember to always keep a close eye on his behaviour as it can always just change in a second. Just like with your fingers, carefully and slowly go deeper, using the step by step method. Don’t go past the point you marked earlier, since we do not know how he will react to this. Carefully start to thrust, but keep masturbating him while you are doing so.
Feel free to keep going until you orgasm, but be careful not to get carried away and make to hard thrusts. You are already very lucky if your cat is letting you do this, don’t test your luck.
When you are done, gently pull back and step back so both of you can clean up. Don’t forget to give your cat a reward. As for training him, if he genuinely liked it then he might ask you for more at a later time. But a good way to let him know you would like to take him anal is to simply rub over his anus like we did at the start. Now that he knows what the idea is, his behaviour should easily tell you if you have a red or green light. If he raises his tail, he’s obviously interested. If he turns away, there’s a big chance he’s not. Anal intercourse with a big cat is quite a special matter and should be carefully considered each and every time.
Note: Just because it went alright this time does not mean it will go the exact same way the next time. Never assume anything because it went okay the last time. Males can be more aggressive at times. Always be careful, over and over again.
21. After word
By the time you finish all the above training, your animal should already be well underway to it’s 5th birthday, if not already it’s 6th. In the past years you have build up such a relation with your cats that they allow you to have sex with them. This is a very special thing and don’t be afraid to be proud of it. Outsiders might find the idea disgusting but we all know better. And besides, disgusting or not, being able to train a tiger to give you a blowjob is a pretty big achievement if you ask me.
Anyway, having a big cat to play around with is the dream of many zoos’ out there. But with lack thereof, many will settle for pictures. If you one day choose to be a nice guy/girl and provide the community with some very unique pictures of your adventures with your cat, keep a few things in mind.
1. First and most obvious, make sure you can not be recognized on the picture. Use Photoshop to blur your face if you need to. This is very important because if you don’t, you will have animal rights and the police on your doorstep within days.
2. Mind the background. Remember that there are more people working at your facility then just you (usually). If someone happens to identify the room the pictures were taken in, you’ll be in trouble. To avoid that, put up a sheet or a green screen in the background so that the room you are in isn’t visible.
3. Also mind stuff like tattoos on your body. No two tattoos are the same and they are a dead giveaway. Wear something like a patch over them while taking the pictures, or blur them out in Photoshop later. This also goes when you have certain details of the animal on the picture. While to the untrained eye all tigers look alike, there are people who can identify the animal in question. If possible, keep the animal’s face out of the picture and focus on the interesting parts instead.
4. Last but not least, when posting the pictures be very careful about your identity. Don’t post under your usual name and if possible don’t post them from your own computer. Because if someone tracks your IP, that’s a dead giveaway. Your best bet is to send the pictures to someone else, a friend in another country all together who can in turn post them using a computer in a library or an internet café. This way the trail will go in the entire opposite direction.
The above obviously also goes for video recordings. The community will be very thankful for contributions you make, but don’t let your well doing compromise you and your lover.
If at anytime during your training you have any questions about something in this guide, feel free to drop a mail at [EMAIL REMOVED - USE THE PM SYSTEM]. I will try to help you out the best I can. Also please use this address to keep me up to date on your progress, as I will be very interested to see how it goes.
For now, have a lot of fun with your feline partner and thank you for your interest in this guide!
TheTiger
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Zoo Sexuals Ethics & Morality
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