My project wearable horsecock

furt0p

furt0p

Lurker
Hi, recently I did several experiments to create a wearable dildo in the shape of a horse cock, is the second usable attempt.
Unfortunately the inner hole is too small to be worn by me (it does not fit everything even when it is soft), the hole made to insert the balls is too small and does not widen sufficiently, moreover it has several problems on the surface (bubbles inside the silicone).
Before making the third attempt I thought I'd ask for advice here in order to improve the result.
what do you think?
20211116_210159 copia.jpg20211116_210303.jpg
 
Love the length! I have a Pegasus from FetishZone which has been a decent sleeve-wearable, and have been kinda on the fence about other toy makers and their wearable horsecocks, in fear their material is too thick for (the wearer) to feel any sensation if using while penetrating. However, none of them are as long as this. Is it open on the opposite end through the urethrea, or is it sealed off?
 
furt0p said:
what do you think?
Click to expand...
Good start.
To remove bubbles either use specific debubbling tools for epoxy 2k mixing as example or just use a gas torch with which you quickly heat the surface from around 8-10 cm distance which brings the air bubbles to tear through rapid expansion which the material can't follow.

This quick heating is not enough for the material to take damage at all. You can prevent most bubbles by a specific way of stirring (and specific stirring tools which don't tend to mix air under it, the reason for bubbles). Mixing slowly like you would with a dough also helps.

Regarding the hole: Take a "human dildo" the size of your dick and balls minus around 10 to 15 percents (erected), as this is the comfortable amount of size difference which also adds a nice grip in it. Then coat it three times thinly with a form anti-stick coating, exists as wax base or chemical base. Then just implement that dildo including balls in the form, probably "on top" so the silicone doesn't run all over it. Place it on correct position and you should fit just nicely after the around 1-1,5% shrinking of the model through hardening and the gripping size difference.
 
furt0p said:
Hi, recently I did several experiments to create a wearable dildo in the shape of a horse cock, is the second usable attempt.
Unfortunately the inner hole is too small to be worn by me (it does not fit everything even when it is soft), the hole made to insert the balls is too small and does not widen sufficiently, moreover it has several problems on the surface (bubbles inside the silicone).
Before making the third attempt I thought I'd ask for advice here in order to improve the result.
what do you think?
View attachment 211067View attachment 211068
Click to expand...
omg wow
 
lutra_zeta said:
Love the length! I have a Pegasus from FetishZone which has been a decent sleeve-wearable, and have been kinda on the fence about other toy makers and their wearable horsecocks, in fear their material is too thick for (the wearer) to feel any sensation if using while penetrating. However, none of them are as long as this. Is it open on the opposite end through the urethrea, or is it sealed off?
Click to expand...
I also bought the pegasus a few years ago, but it was too soft and even then I felt tight, but compared to my model the walls are thinner and more regular. This model is closed while the previous model had the space open up to the tip with a small hole for the seed.
 
YanchaOkami said:
To remove bubbles either use specific debubbling tools for epoxy 2k mixing as example or just use a gas torch with which you quickly heat the surface from around 8-10 cm distance which brings the air bubbles to tear through rapid expansion which the material can't follow.

This quick heating is not enough for the material to take damage at all. You can prevent most bubbles by a specific way of stirring (and specific stirring tools which don't tend to mix air under it, the reason for bubbles). Mixing slowly like you would with a dough also helps.
Click to expand...
I can't say I've poured my own silicone before, but watching others do it, I've seen folks use a vacuum chamber shortly after pouring which will draw all of the bubbles out. You could maybe rig something to make an equivalent that does this?
 
lutra_zeta said:
.. I've seen folks use a vacuum chamber shortly after pouring which will draw all of the bubbles out. You could maybe rig something to make an equivalent that does this?
Click to expand...
That's the other established way, can get expensive, as just high quality vacuum pumps which can be left running for days without overheating or failure are expensive (they are not only used for debubbling of the epoxy / silicone / resin).

They get used as well in the infusing / pressurizing aspect unto the molds by help of a sealing plane layer as example with epoxy and carbon fiber weaving / glass fiber / aramid / dyneema / basalt / whatever.

This results in the highest amount of fiber compared to epoxy ratio in the final product and as such the best properties (the matrix doesn't withstand much compared to the fibers) as the epoxy which is too much gets soaked out into draining throw-away collectors. Used in all bigger vacuum infusion mold forming of parts.

For "just" air bubble removal even a cheap solution should be sufficient, but has to reach a noticeable pressure reduction, "sucking on the tanks valve" won't succeed. But at least it's just silicone without any fibers to get drown well in it.

With big surface parts it's easier to just heat the (big) surface 0,2 seconds with a gas torch, for models it's probably easier to put them in the vacuum chamber.
 
Thermoplastics are another field. Even as nowadays there are ways to combine thermoplastics with fibers to a compound which is basically shapeable in limited dimensions through heating over around 180 - 230°C. 🤷‍♂️

It also needs almost no time to "harden" aka cure, which is a plus for industrial production. No insolvable remaining like on epoxy, no clogging feeders (just cool them to clean it as it will right fall off any smooth surface then).

One of the reasons PA-GF40 is used widely in car plastics (40% glass fiber in the resulting polyamide matrix), but it only uses small fiber strands / pieces, not thoroughly linear following ones in load stress directions, which would improve the max load / stress ratings by a lot, from experience 300-400%, if lined for expanding load stresses and not compressing ones.
Dirty enough? :husky_wink:
 
YanchaOkami said:
Good start.
To remove bubbles either use specific debubbling tools for epoxy 2k mixing as example or just use a gas torch with which you quickly heat the surface from around 8-10 cm distance which brings the air bubbles to tear through rapid expansion which the material can't follow.

This quick heating is not enough for the material to take damage at all. You can prevent most bubbles by a specific way of stirring (and specific stirring tools which don't tend to mix air under it, the reason for bubbles). Mixing slowly like you would with a dough also helps.

Regarding the hole: Take a "human dildo" the size of your dick and balls minus around 10 to 15 percents (erected), as this is the comfortable amount of size difference which also adds a nice grip in it. Then coat it three times thinly with a form anti-stick coating, exists as wax base or chemical base. Then just implement that dildo including balls in the form, probably "on top" so the silicone doesn't run all over it. Place it on correct position and you should fit just nicely after the around 1-1,5% shrinking of the model through hardening and the gripping size difference.
Click to expand...
for heating I don't think it's possible, because I use a silicone mold, also to make the dildo I use a food-grade silicone that has a very short workability time (about 10 minutes) I have not yet found a valid transparent or white silicone with longer workability times and with the right hardness.
for the new project I had thought the same thing, to make a dildo (in wax) made to measure for my dick and put it inside the mold, but I have to make a new mold to contain the balls too.
 
lutra_zeta said:
I can't say I've poured my own silicone before, but watching others do it, I've seen folks use a vacuum chamber shortly after pouring which will draw all of the bubbles out. You could maybe rig something to make an equivalent that does this?
Click to expand...
I thought I'd try vacuum packing, but I use a silicone with short workability times I wouldn't be able to make it in time, I should find a new silicone.
 
YanchaOkami said:
That's the other established way, can get expensive, as just high quality vacuum pumps which can be left running for days without overheating or failure are expensive (they are not only used for debubbling of the epoxy / silicone / resin).

They get used as well in the infusing / pressurizing aspect unto the molds by help of a sealing plane layer as example with epoxy and carbon fiber weaving / glass fiber / aramid / dyneema / basalt / whatever.

This results in the highest amount of fiber compared to epoxy ratio in the final product and as such the best properties (the matrix doesn't withstand much compared to the fibers) as the epoxy which is too much gets soaked out into draining throw-away collectors. Used in all bigger vacuum infusion mold forming of parts.

For "just" air bubble removal even a cheap solution should be sufficient, but has to reach a noticeable pressure reduction, "sucking on the tanks valve" won't succeed. But at least it's just silicone without any fibers to get drown well in it.

With big surface parts it's easier to just heat the (big) surface 0,2 seconds with a gas torch, for models it's probably easier to put them in the vacuum chamber.
Click to expand...
I thought I'd try the homemade vacuum, since for me it's a hobby and I want to spend the right amount. But I should first find good silicones with longer processing times
 
furt0p said:
I thought I'd try the homemade vacuum, since for me it's a hobby and I want to spend the right amount. But I should first find good silicones with longer processing times
Click to expand...
Yep, 10 minutes processing time is too short for individual production. With tempered molds and injection via multiple valves over pressure like in industry it is well possible, but for "hand work" it's too short. One small fault, a minute too long mixed and you'll have a curing silicone which was only correctable for a few seconds after putting it in the mold.

One bigger air bubble which takes 2-3 minutes with still fluid silicone to remove will then ruin the whole model as the marks of removal are already hardening / curing and not self leveling and smoothing anymore.

Regarding high quality silicone, take a look onto platinum silicone types from: https://www.smooth-on.com/category/platinum-silicone/

There are quite a few which are safely usable for contact with mucous membrane and are well cleanable. Not cheap, but if you put something in a body, I wouldn't really care about a few $ saved if it means potential harm or quick aging of the product (as such no long durability).

The processing time of (other) silicone can often get influenced by additives, maybe there are such for the smooth-on silicone types as well.
 
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YanchaOkami said:
Sì, il tempo di elaborazione di 10 minuti è troppo breve per la produzione individuale. Con stampi temperati e iniezione tramite più valvole di sovrapressione come nell'industria è possibile, ma per il "lavoro manuale" è troppo breve. Un piccolo difetto, un minuto di troppo mescolato e avrai un silicone indurente che è stato corretto solo per pochi secondi dopo averlo messo nello stampo.

Una bolla d'aria più grande che richiede 2-3 minuti con silicone ancora fluido per essere rimossa rovinerà l'intero modello poiché i segni di rimozione si stanno già indurendo/indurendo e non si autolivellano più e non si levigano più.

Per quanto riguarda il silicone di alta qualità, dai un'occhiata ai tipi di silicone al platino da: https://www.smooth-on.com/category/platinum-silicone/

Ce ne sono alcuni che possono essere tranquillamente utilizzati per il contatto con le mucose e sono ben pulibili. Non è economico, ma se metti qualcosa in un corpo, non mi interesserebbe davvero di qualche dollaro risparmiato se significa potenziale danno o invecchiamento rapido del prodotto (in quanto tale non ha una lunga durata).

Il tempo di lavorazione di (altro) silicone può spesso essere influenzato dagli additivi, forse ce ne sono anche per i tipi di silicone liscio.
Click to expand...
ohh thanks I just have to figure out if I can find these products here too, I usually always use silicon with platinum catalyst which are safer
 
Wow that looks really good, I would have said you just bought that from somewhere :ROFLMAO:

For the bubbles in the silicone, I've used vacuum food storage boxes and they work pretty good and don't cost all that much. I put the mixed silicone in one, pump all the air out as much as I can then leave it for a few minutes until all the bubbles have stopped rising to the surface. Then carefully pour the silicone into the mold being careful not to trap any air. So far I haven't had one bubble in the finished item.
iu
 
Labraguy5 said:
Wow that looks really good, I would have said you just bought that from somewhere :ROFLMAO:

For the bubbles in the silicone, I've used vacuum food storage boxes and they work pretty good and don't cost all that much. I put the mixed silicone in one, pump all the air out as much as I can then leave it for a few minutes until all the bubbles have stopped rising to the surface. Then carefully pour the silicone into the mold being careful not to trap any air. So far I haven't had one bubble in the finished item.
iu
Click to expand...
This really helps a lot more than you would think!
I am a hobbyist myself and do some mold making - never thought about this! Genius ^^
 
furt0p said:
Hi, recently I did several experiments to create a wearable dildo in the shape of a horse cock, is the second usable attempt.
Unfortunately the inner hole is too small to be worn by me (it does not fit everything even when it is soft), the hole made to insert the balls is too small and does not widen sufficiently, moreover it has several problems on the surface (bubbles inside the silicone).
Before making the third attempt I thought I'd ask for advice here in order to improve the result.
what do you think?
View attachment 211067View attachment 211068
Click to expand...
Such a hot and awesome project. Love silicone but it’s so finicky.
 
furt0p said:
Hi, recently I did several experiments to create a wearable dildo in the shape of a horse cock, is the second usable attempt.
Unfortunately the inner hole is too small to be worn by me (it does not fit everything even when it is soft), the hole made to insert the balls is too small and does not widen sufficiently, moreover it has several problems on the surface (bubbles inside the silicone).
Before making the third attempt I thought I'd ask for advice here in order to improve the result.
what do you think?
View attachment 211067View attachment 211068
Click to expand...
This is so hot!!
 
Damn someone know if we can buy something like this ? My mare will enjoy that thing
 
That little strap for the balls is working its hardest for you!! looks awesome though! Must've been quite the project to make it
 
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