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General Homesteading thread

My source is 30 years of animal husbandry, I've owned at least one horse continuously since I was 5 years old.

Then you're roughly 20 years behind me, experience-wise.

Hoofs don't fall off due to poisoning in my experience that's either a symptom of hoof rot or severe infection or truly severe and massive trauma to the hoof.

While I'd generally agree, with a bad enough case of laminitis, which is usually the first and most obvious symptom of juglone exposure, the effect is the same as you trying to wear a too-loose slip-on shoe. If/when enough of the laminae are damaged/destroyed by the inflammation (Laminitis = "inflammation of the laminae", as an experienced horse-person ought to know) the hoof itself is no longer securely connected to the underlying structures. Which is why a laminitic horse MUST be monitored for coffin-bone rotation - Without the laminae attaching the hoof wall to the rest of the foot, the coffin bone tends to drop and rotate, and in a severe enough case, can cause the hoof to detach compeltely and fall off. Exactly as I saw happen - between one step and the next, she "stepped out of" her hoof, leaving it in the print that it had just made in the snad/gravel of the driveway. When she tried to complete the step by putting down the bloody mass that was now the end of her leg, she screamed like she'd been stabbed, and went down. She never stood up again - Gramps went white as a sheet, then ran for the house, cussing a blue streak all the way, and came back with the .30-30 to put her down on the spot minutes later.

Possibly from snake bite but that's an extremely unlikely case.
Even that would be doubtful, I'm thinking - Especially where the event took place. The only snake I can think of that's likely to cause that sort of damage would be the coral snake, and those simply don't exist in Michigan, unless they're in captivity - Winters are too cold for them to survive outside.

The only venomous snake known (I've heard many rumors over the years claiming that you can encounter the occasional cottonmouth if you look hard enough, but never seen any evidence to back those claims) to inhabit the area is what I grew up knowing as the "Michigan rattler", which I later learned is properly termed the Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake. Supposedly, the entire lower Peninsula, and part of the eastern end of the U.P. of Michigan is "home range" for them, but I've only ever seen two of them in-person, and only one of those was "for certain" - That one was on display in a glass case at the Clinch Park Zoo in Traverse City, back in the 80s, and the tag said it had been captured near Cadillac. The other was a sighting that lasted all of about 5 seconds, and at enough distance that the identification is quite suspect. Saw it while I was slogging through the marsh near the south approach to the Sleeping Bear Dunes area - It was moving fast, and visible so briefly that I can't claim to be absolutely certain it wasn't just a young/small rat snake. Either way, it's a "shy" snake, and unlikely to be where the horse was (they prefer swampy areas, by all accounts I've read) and even if one had been around, everything I know about them says that they're more likely to flee than bite, and if they do bite, their venom is said to be comparatively weak.
 
Newer tech? Lithium Iron Phosphate

Pros: can be used to 80% depth of discharge with no affect on life cycle count so you buy a 200AH LiFePO4 you get 160Ah usable, Fast absorption of power from solar panels, Long lived, will not catch fire like other lithium techs.

Cons: Cost, High initial cost (slightly higher than lead acid now days) , more temperature sensitive, must be kept above 5c. Must have a management system (commercially made ones come with it)

Actually, I think lots of models come with the BMS (Battery Management System) integrated, even the cheap Asian ones. Keep in mind that the cheap Asian ones have a tendency to be undocumented - ie. if you manage to wire a medium-sized battery bank without help from the vendor, you get a prize.

Deployment of photovoltaic power production deserves a thread of its own. When people asks me about advice, I always start with the basics:

Basic 1: How much power do you use daily?

This is surprisingly easy to estimate if you are currently connected to the grid. Just pick the power bills of the last two years. Find how many kilowatts.hour/joules/whatever you were billed each month and then divide it by the number of days that month had. That will give you your daily consumption.

Basic 2: How much power can you produce?

This is a bit too complex for the regular Joe to do without some education, but what I do is to pick a regular solar panel from the catalog and find out the average power it may generate per day, on average, for each given month in the location I want to install it (so you get the average power production in January, the average power production in February, and so on).

Many vendors can help you with this and some even have pre-calculated production charts.

Basic 3: How much power do you really need?

Things get tricky here. What percentage of the year do you want to be covered? 80%? 90%? Solar power is subject to the law of diminishing returns, so don't get greedy if you don't need to. 99% coverage (ie. ~80-90 blackout hours per year) is insanely expensive to achieve.

Getting Ready

Now you pick a number of solar panels you think you can pay as a base for your calculation, and check if an array that size would serve you well.

What you do is to compare the average power consumption you calculated in step one to the power production you calculated in step 2. For each month. An spreadsheet is nearly mandatory. Something like this:

MonthDaily ConsumptionDaily Production per PanelNumber of PanelsDaily ProductionBalance
[...][...][...][...][...][...]
June202612-8
July192.3613.8-5.2
[...][...][...][...][...][...]

The negative numbers in the "balance" row indicate months in which your solar would fall short on average.

You can (crudely) estimate your yearly power consumption by averaging all the values of the Daily Consumption row and multiplying them by 365. You can also (crudely) estimate your yearly deficit by adding all the negative values in the Balance row and multiplying them by 30 and then by the number of months in which Balance turned out negative.

Your coverage (as a percentage) will thus be:

100 * (Yearly Power Consumption - Yearly Deficit) / Yearly Power Consumption

If the coverage you get from the above calculation is smaller than your target, repeat the calculation with a bigger number of solar panels until you achieve your target coverage or you break your budget.

Battery sizing

I consider Lithium PO4FE batteries here since those are the ones I use for big banks.

My official recommendation is to get a battery bank capable of holding 133% of your average daily consumption, but I am also aware most people can't pay that. My rationale is that such a big battery bank will still provide you with a 100% power capacity once 30% of it has disappeared due to battery age (ie after 10 years) and because a slightly oversized battery tends to do better during streaks of cloudy days. It only makes sense to use big battery banks if your solar is actually capable of charging them (ie +85% solar coverage per year), otherwise you are just wasting money in batteries that will never be taken full advantage of.

What do I do when power runs out and my grandma is connected to a life support machine she needs to live?

Buy a fucking diesel powered generator.

There are some cool solar setups that can be configured to trigger the generator automatically if the day is dark and the batteries are running low. You can source some cheap Asian inverters (2k USD) with an integrated port for the generator. These are great because you can also charge the batteries from the generator in order to use the electricity later. A 3KW generator should more than suffice for a common family house in a pitch, but I have seen good deals in the 5-6KW range.

I installed an array that provides 90% of coverage. Now it is summer, batteries are already 100% charged by 11:00 am. The sun is shining but all my productivity is going to waste. You scammed me!

You will have too much electricity in the best months of the year. That is the price of having barely enough the worst months of the year.

Get domestic appliances to make the most of the extra electricity. Well pumps. Air conditioning. A 1KW server rack.

Or just hire a electrician next time instead of believing a random internet weirdo. Just keep in mind that most electricians doing solar will just install a commercial kit on your roof without bothering to ask how much power you do use and without bothering to estimate how much power your solar will produce, therefore leaving you with a generation system of unknown performance. It is not that electricians cannot calculate, it is that oftentimes they don't care.


EDIT:


If you have a standby emergency generator, it is a good idea to check its fuel and oil level every morning. You don't want it to be automatically started if its tank is empty or it has no oil. I also recommend running it half an hour each month just to check it is still in working condition. Nobody wants a generator to sit unused for years only to fail to start the day you really, really need it.
 
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yup for ever watt you reduce in usage you save 5 bucks in generating, so start with becoming efficient in energy usage, this pays right away in savings on the power bill.

This is true, but some consideration I often share is this one:

It is often more economical, energy efficient and eco-friendly to keep using an inefficient machine until it breaks than upgrading an inefficient machine into an efficient one.

I mention this because oftentimes people tells me to upgrade my computers, vehicles, lights etc. because they are old and wasting energy. When I run the numbers I don't find they add up unless we are talking about stuff that see a whole lot of use. ie. an upgraded server rack that runs 24/7 may pay off in 2 or 3 years but an upgraded workstation you use an hour a day will become obsolete before it pays off.
 
If I’m using manure myself it’s usually cow. Seems to have less weed seeds in it unlike horse if it isn’t completely broken down. Also if you do have a good and hot compost pile it’s a good place to stick a jar of garlic to make that expensive black garlic you see on the market. It’s good to have a home remedy book as well. It’s not the Rx but it can at least detract a bit from illness while preventing it from the start.
 
If I’m using manure myself it’s usually cow. Seems to have less weed seeds in it unlike horse if it isn’t completely broken down. Also if you do have a good and hot compost pile it’s a good place to stick a jar of garlic to make that expensive black garlic you see on the market. It’s good to have a home remedy book as well. It’s not the Rx but it can at least detract a bit from illness while preventing it from the start.
i just downloaded an herbalist guide --- and as i type this, wow Sarah that will not be worth shit with no power.
I get small scoops of chicken poo to put in bottom of my house plants. by time roots get that deep it has broken down.
 
you cannot use the manure in your gardening if you do that. Black walnut is horrible for plants and can cause major damage for years.
Yep. Last time I looked in on the state of the research, the conclusion had been drawn that Juglone is a Black Walnut tree's version of "Agent Orange" - Keeps competing plants from growing (kills some before they even break out of the seed husk) near enough to the tree to suck up nutrients it wants. Basically, the ground anywhere within the "drip-line" of a black walnut is going to be nearly barren, other than a few particularly hardy weeds (Burdock being one of the main ones) and some grasses, and unless the top 10 inches or so of soil is removed and replaced with something else, will stay that way for years even after the tree has been removed. They've got nice wood for various projects, but overall, they're downright evil trees.
 
Yep. Last time I looked in on the state of the research, the conclusion had been drawn that Juglone is a Black Walnut tree's version of "Agent Orange" - Keeps competing plants from growing (kills some before they even break out of the seed husk) near enough to the tree to suck up nutrients it wants. Basically, the ground anywhere within the "drip-line" of a black walnut is going to be nearly barren, other than a few particularly hardy weeds (Burdock being one of the main ones) and some grasses, and unless the top 10 inches or so of soil is removed and replaced with something else, will stay that way for years even after the tree has been removed. They've got nice wood for various projects, but overall, they're downright evil trees.
I know. My land is full of them. Been a pain in the ass since I got here
 
Yep. Last time I looked in on the state of the research, the conclusion had been drawn that Juglone is a Black Walnut tree's version of "Agent Orange" - Keeps competing plants from growing (kills some before they even break out of the seed husk) near enough to the tree to suck up nutrients it wants. Basically, the ground anywhere within the "drip-line" of a black walnut is going to be nearly barren, other than a few particularly hardy weeds (Burdock being one of the main ones) and some grasses, and unless the top 10 inches or so of soil is removed and replaced with something else, will stay that way for years even after the tree has been removed. They've got nice wood for various projects, but overall, they're downright evil trees.
hmmmmm you just sparked an interesting idea.

I wonder if you could soak black walnut leaves / husks etc and use it as an organic version of roundup?
 
I know. My land is full of them. Been a pain in the ass since I got here
Talk to your local ag-extension type folks - They can put you on to people who will come in and take 'em out for you, and pay you for the privilege - I've heard of 30 footers going for upwards of $20K each as veneer logs. Bonus: if you find a "stupid" one: They'll pay to drop the tree and haul it off, leaving the stump behind, then you can call one that has a clue and get paid again for letting them come in and dig up the stump and taproots - which make perfectly fine veneer that'll bring a ridiculous sum of cash.
 
hmmmmm you just sparked an interesting idea.

I wonder if you could soak black walnut leaves / husks etc and use it as an organic version of roundup?
One piece I read on 'em years ago had that idea, but it got dropped when they realized how wide-spectrum it is, and how long it stays active after application. From the reading I did, they came to the conclusion that it's great for clearing ground that you never want anything (other than weeds) to grow on again, but for any other purpose, it'd be less headache to just plow rock-salt into the ground.

On the other hand, black walnut hulls DO make reasonably decent fabric dye - depending on how "strong" the "tea" is made, you can get anything from yellow to deep green, and a nice, rich brown.
 
Hmm, we have several black walnut trees on my dad's farm but it's just farmland and woods. I had no idea how evil they were. I've heard that bush honeysuckle uses chemical warfare too to kill out competing plants and we have a lot of that crap too. :(
 
Hmm, we have several black walnut trees on my dad's farm but it's just farmland and woods. I had no idea how evil they were. I've heard that bush honeysuckle uses chemical warfare too to kill out competing plants and we have a lot of that crap too. :(
There are several (known... who can say how many others that haven't been noticed so far) plants that do the chemical warfare thing. Some target other plants, other target the critters that might eat them. (I'm looking at you and your urushiol, poison ivy/poison oak/poison sumac, and to a lesser degree, cashew trees - Betcha didn't know that eating raw cashews will wreck your whole world, didja? Every cashew you've ever eaten has been cooked (usually roasted, sometimes boiled then roasted) to remove/destroy the urushiol)
 
One piece I read on 'em years ago had that idea, but it got dropped when they realized how wide-spectrum it is, and how long it stays active after application. From the reading I did, they came to the conclusion that it's great for clearing ground that you never want anything (other than weeds) to grow on again, but for any other purpose, it'd be less headache to just plow rock-salt into the ground.

On the other hand, black walnut hulls DO make reasonably decent fabric dye - depending on how "strong" the "tea" is made, you can get anything from yellow to deep green, and a nice, rich brown.
So they could go along the fence line for long term weed killing maybe?
 
Let's not forget rag weed, wild hogs tear up my bottom ground every year digging for wild onions and that crap goes crazy in freshly disturbed ground. It's a twofer, rough ground is hell on my hay equipment and even the goats turn their noses at hay with too much of that crap.
 
Why can't miss piggy come to me, I want to blow her mind and make bacon! I got some lovely steel jacketed soft points.
I popped two one morning on my daily stroll with a pistol. I regularly kill 2-4 at a time with my AR, I've even shot them at night with a thermal scoped AR 10

I trap them, I let multiple guys hunt them with dogs, makes essentially no impact on the population, they just breed to fast and none of the neighbors do anything to control the population other than occasionally killing one for meat.

Gets to a point where there isn't room in the freezers. I sell the ones I trap to a high fenced canned "hunting ranch"
 
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Why save your own seeds or buy them from a local grower?
Bayer aka "Monsanto" owns over 50% of the worlds seed supply.
Chema-China is newer to the scene but the fastest growing
Gotta use heritage strains and make your own hybrids. Corporate giants, and countries just do it faster. All the best tasting hybrids I've had have been developed by the average farmer.

A little activism goes a long way at a farmers market too.

Monsanto and China will intentionally "accidentally" cross pollinate to ruin a whole crop season for a mom and pop set up and just wait outside their land with lawyers and scientists. Be careful if you're even adjacent to corporate or Chinese owned land.
 
Gotta use heritage strains and make your own hybrids. Corporate giants, and countries just do it faster. All the best tasting hybrids I've had have been developed by the average farmer.

A little activism goes a long way at a farmers market too.

Monsanto and China will intentionally "accidentally" cross pollinate to ruin a whole crop season for a mom and pop set up and just wait outside their land with lawyers and scientists. Be careful if you're even adjacent to corporate or Chinese owned land.
Given how much airable land is now owned by corps and China most of us who live in farm country probably have them in bee range.

It's utter bullshit anyway, if my bull gets out and breeds the neighbors cows it's my problem, courts treating engineered pollen different is idiotic.
 
Given how much airable land is now owned by corps and China most of us who live in farm country probably have them in bee range.

It's utter bullshit anyway, if my bull gets out and breeds the neighbors cows it's my problem, courts treating engineered pollen different is idiotic.
And right there is the problem...

Pollination is kinda one of them "acts of God" sorta things when it happens outside in nature, and the fact that the courts don't see it that way should speak volumes to who their real masters are.
 
And right there is the problem...

Pollination is kinda one of them "acts of God" sorta things when it happens outside in nature, and the fact that the courts don't see it that way should speak volumes to who their real masters are.
If they want to claim ownership of the seed because it has their genetics we should be able to counter sue for them damaging our crops.
 
Ideas to grow coffee in North American climate? or other citrus fruits?
It's actually pretty easy just get as controlled an environment as possible specific to the species you're trying to grow. Most likely going to have to build a structure to insulate but a pvc plastic sheet structure can go a long way(about 3-5 years). Citrus like a slightly higher ph. I'm not versed in coffee plants tho.
 
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