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How to Receive Dogs

caikgoch

Esteemed Citizen of ZV
How to receive Anal Sex from Male Dogs
(All of the parts about dogs apply to vaginal sex also.)


Intro :

Dogs are not like humans. They have their own unique and wonderful system. DO NOT try to judge them by your own standards and feelings.

Male dogs are used to waiting for sex. A Bitch might be ready to breed every 9 months to a year. (don't forget to allow time for raising a litter if you are speaking of a breeding Bitch)

And for exactly that reason they are serious about never missing a chance for sex. Once a male dog realizes that sex is possible, he may become very excited. That excitement may lead to clawing or even biting so consider using a heavy shirt or similar protection at least until you are comfortable with each other. Dew claws can be particularly painful. Socks on the dog can remedy that.

Strongly dominant dogs may also "take charge" quite forcefully. The Bitch has a nerve complex in the back of her neck that will paralyze her when activated. This the same mechanism that you see in puppies when they are carried by the scruff of their neck. So some male dogs will bite that nerve complex to insure her co-operation. He might even approach her submissively and groom her until he can get that bite. And yes, he may use those same tactics on you.

Male dogs are sometimes quite vocal communicating their desires to you. You may hear anything from a low rumble to a full throated bark in your ear. Do not assume he is bluffing. He will not do any damage to his mate that might interfere with her bearing his puppies but he may leave marks that are hard to explain.

Tease, play, and ask. Do not try to force anything. You can always try again, unless you hurt him. If he gets pain out of it, he will not want to try again for a long time. Do not assume that you are what he wants or that the time is exactly right. For example, heavy coated northern breeds tend to lose interest in the hot summer months. Others may have their own reasons.



The Dog :

The ideal dog will have a body about the same size as yours or a little larger. A dog so sized will weigh less than you because he doesn't have so much of his mass invested in two big legs. You will fit together better if you are about the same build (thick vs thin) and he will be able to hold on to you without difficulty.

He will perform a LOT better if he still has his nuts but they are not absolutely required.

The younger you get him and the more time you spend with him, the happier you will be. A dog that is happy, healthy, and confident will make a wonderful lover. Dogs are hardwired to bond with their family, natural or adopted, and they will use their amazing senses to make their family members as happy as they can be.

There are a broad range of temperaments available. If he's too young for a clear understanding, check out his parents. Don't worry about "horny breeds". Once he is understanding that you can give him regular orgasms, you will find that he has more time for sex than you do. Pick a dog that you will be happy with the other 99% of the time.

The sexual experience will be much less painful for both of you if you wait until he is mature. That means a year for smaller dogs up to two years for giant breeds. Humping is a reflex that can be triggered almost from birth but libido and co-ordination won't come until much later.



The Dog's Equipment :

The male dog has a bone in his penis. It attached to erectile tissue at its base and otherwise floats within his penis.

He keeps his penis in a sheath made of common skin on his belly.

When he becomes excited, his erection begins in the tissue connecting this bone to his pelvis causing his penis to lengthen slightly and angle downward / away from his body. This is what is called "showing pink".

He will mount (place his chest over his mate's hips and grasp her with his front legs) and probe with the exposed tip of his penis. Sometime during this process he will begin to ejaculate. Note that this is precum intended to cleanse his urethra and lubricate his target.

When he feels the tip of his penis enter a warm wet hole, he will thrust strongly arching his back and spreading his thighs outward. The act of spreading his thighs pulls the skin on his belly back bringing his sheath with it and exposing the rest of his penis as it slides into his target.

At this point his penis is still very small and slick so it will slide all the way in easily. When he feels a vulva (or other ring of muscle) around the base of his penis, he will thrust strongly and rapidly. The part of his penis commonly called the "knot" will swell quickly just inside that ring of muscle. Unlike humans, he wants his stimulation at the base of his penis. The feel of that ring of muscle is what turns him on.

His knot will swell until it locks in place and cannot be pulled back out the hole. Ideally, it will stretch the tissue around it and further thrusting will simply move the organ containing it.

He may continue short thrusts for a bit or step from side to side but he will soon stop thrusting altogether. At this point the rest of his penis will swell until it is several times its normal size completing the erection process.

His sperm will have flowed for the first time by now. The exact moment varies and can be repeated several times if he is stimulated correctly. The non sperm part of his ejaculation will continue as long as he is erect with a steady pulse . . . pulse . . . pulse rhythm. Sperm flow can be distinguished by faster and harder pulse of several seconds duration.

Almost all of his ejaculate will be a clear to slightly cloudy liquid of watery consistency. His sperm will be white and only slightly thicker.

Average tie time for dogs is 20 to 30 minutes. 15 minutes is a kinda minimum and I have observed 90 minutes. Your actual time will depend on how comfortable he is and how well you stimulate him. Most dogs like an active bitch that seems to enjoy what they are doing.

His penis is also mounted on a "hinge". He can (and many dogs seem to prefer to) turn it completely backward.



Before :

First, you should be VERY certain that you are in a secure location with plenty of time. Raw naked outdoor animal sex is as good as it gets but you must be very certain neighbor kids or low flying aircraft are not going to happen upon you while you are tied and defenseless. Nighttime seriously improves your odds as do fences. A locked door is your best option. Having a bathroom behind the locked door with you is ideal. You will get very messy. A towel and fresh clothes is a minimum.

Second, you must be personally ready. Unless you are VERY experienced with anal sex, you should thoroughly empty yourself by means of an enema. DO NOT underestimate the importance of this step! When his knot stretches your rectum, your body will respond with a reflex to void your entire lower intestinal tract. As you gain experience, you will learn to override this reflex much the way the gag reflex must be controlled for oral sex.

Also, unless you are aware of your personal internal dimensions from experience, measure the dog then measure yourself. Remember that he will not get his full length until AFTER he is tied. If required you can increase your personal depth by stretching over time with a long toy. DO NOT just assume a large dog will fit. He may grow to over 14 inches (35 cm) long. If you don't have that much room, he will feel pain and pull until he relieves that pain.

There are two choices possible when dealing with the knot. You can accommodate a lot more internally than can pass through your sphincter. If you can push something half the diameter of his knot in, he can pull it out without doing serious damage (it will hurt though). By not stretching out to his full size you keep it much easier to hold his knot. Or you can stretch yourself until his knot can easily be released whenever you desire. This will require more effort on your part both during the stretching and when you must tighten up to keep him in but you will be able to break tie easily in an emergency.

The choice is your's and in any case not permanent. If you stop stretching, your body will slowly return to its previous shape.

More important than stretching is strength training. Kegel Exercises work wonders. You want a large STRONG muscle, not a thin stretched out muscle. Practice holding things against a pull. At the same time, you can work on controlling the void reflex.

DO NOT over lube. The largest dog that I have met (a St Bernard with a 5 inch, 12 cm, in diameter knot), goes in about an inch, 2.5 cm, across. Because dogs make full penetration while only about 10% erect, lack of depth is the most common impediment. Dogs are interested in slippery friction only during the first minute or two of the act. Mostly they want pressure or squeezing. Lube will make it much harder to hold on to his knot.

If you have no experience at all with dogs, you may want to masturbate him and sample his ejaculate. Taste a small amount of it or apply it to your skin to test for an allergic reaction.



The Act :

When you are in position and prepared to receive a male dog, you are "standing" for him. An experienced stud dog will recognize the stance and attitude and will quickly take advantage of it. A dog with his regular partner can often tie in seconds.

You may also enhance his libido by teasing and playing with him. Some dogs (particularly the "Wolfish" breeds) enjoy a good chase. Many will want to feel like they have "taken" you in a contest.

Overly aggressive behavior on your part can turn some dogs off. After all, he has spent his whole life being told that aggression towards humans or even jumping on them is wrong. Make sure that he understands that it is mock combat or play behavior.

You can also mount and dry hump him. This seriously excites some dogs.

When he comes at you excitedly, crouch and turn your butt to him. If he is inexperienced, you can masturbate him just enough to obtain some precum and rub it where you want him to notice. Having a Bitch in full heat near enough to smell but not in the same room may also help with inexperienced dogs.

When he mounts, it is your job to put yourself in the correct place for him to penetrate. Move your butt as needed to put his target at the spot his penis is probing. If needed, put a hand back there and guide him in.

Do not be surprised if a young, inexperienced dog takes numerous tries to achieve penetration. Sometimes they get so excited that they will fall off or launch themselves completely over your body. Near misses can also be quite painful as all you will feel at this stage is his rather narrow bone.

When he hits his mark, he will put everything in in one fast stroke. You may feel his nuts swing up between your legs. He may also get an inch or 2 of sheath into you. The short hairs will add some interesting stimulation.

Once he gets it in, you may lower your shoulders so that he slides down your back and gravity helps him keep it in. Tighten your muscles around his penis and hold him as hard as you can. If he doesn't feel a tight ring behind his knot, he may loose interest.



During :

Some male dogs will maintain their grip on you for the duration of their orgasm. These dogs may also insist quite forcefully that you do not move.

Others will immediately dismount and turn butt to butt with you. Anything in between or combinations are possible. You have to learn what satisfies your dog for yourself.

You do have an excellent instrument to measure his satisfaction embedded in you. When he is not happy, his knot will shrink leading to an early withdrawal. When he is extra happy, his knot will pulse strongly.

Some dogs seem to enjoy a certain amount of pulling on their penis. If you have sufficient strength to hold him during this pulling, it can be great fun to drag each other about. Otherwise, you should have a pre-arranged "blind alley" to aim him down. This would be something like a narrow space bounded by a room corner and a piece of furniture. Just steer him there if he pulls too much.

You may also squeeze his knot and hump against him to satisfy this need. As you become more experienced and comfortable, you may also want to try laying him down.

To lay him down you let him dismount then stop when he is at a right angle to your body. Grasp one hind leg in each hand with one over and one under your body. Pull him against you so he can't pull out then rotate backwards until you are in a sitting position with him on his back under you. Take care not to put a lot of weight on him.

Most dogs will "lock up" by 10 minutes into the tie. If you are doing it right, they are lost in such orgasmic bliss that they are barely aware of anything. This condition can last until one of you falls out from exhaustion.

Experiment. You can sense his satisfaction through his knot and the length of time he stays tied. He can sense your excitement and satisfaction even better. Do the things that make each other happy.


Afterward :

Retain all of his essence that you can. Aside from the emotional kick of having his living tissue in you, the testosterone is pretty nice too.

Clean up all external skin. He may help you or vice versa. Canine ejaculate is mildly astringent. Left on sensitive skin, it will cause a mild burn or rash. Overexposure (like pulling a pack) can leave you swollen and sensitive internally but only a true (and super rare) allergic reaction is any danger.

Clean the area thoroughly (unless you are outdoors). The smell will be strong if you don't.

Other male dogs will smell the sex on you for up to a couple of days. Some of them will demand their turn. This is extra helpful if you have an inexperienced dog and any access to an experienced dog.


The emotional life of male dogs :

After you have done it a few times with a given dog you will probably notice a change in him. It is normal for dogs to protect their mate and that may even include from other males. Most dogs will socialize with their mate and prefer to remain with them as much as possible. He will be confused if you don't let him sleep with you.

A Bitch in heat anywhere upwind may give his libido an extra boost. About 4 hours is the minimum recovery time for dog. Even without any external stimulation, he will start soliciting you by the second day. You will need to have a clear policy on this and a clear set of signals.

I have personally had dogs that went from obedience champs to clothes ripping sex maniacs at the dropping of a simple signal. They really like sex and a partner that never goes out of heat is a dog's idea of heaven. You just need to make it clear and obvious when sex is wanted and when it isn't. Then NEVER EVER break your own rules.

It is OK for him to ask politely. But if you let him take sex without a clear negotiation and consent from you, he will soon own you. And remember that he sees nothing at all wrong with getting some in the front yard in clear view of all the neighbors.

If you do it right there will be a clear passing of control to him that only happens at a time and place of your choosing. You may or may not be able to take control back before he knots in you but once his knot has formed, his reflexes are in control of both of you for the duration.

In their wholly natural state, IE Wolves, male canines join a pack or form one. After a time with that pack from months to years they may get the chance to breed. This means that a male dog gets to know his mate before sex is even possible. Matings are long term (usually for life) and monogamous.

This works well for dogs in human society also. They join a mixed dog / human pack and wait patiently for their chance to breed. A properly imprinted / socialized dog can be an ideal loving faithful mate. The more you use this instinctual pattern, the happier you will be.

On the other hand, humans have altered this pattern somewhat. Wolves will only breed in the early winter. This makes sense for them because it allows the young pups to leave the den just as spring dawns and have a whole summer to grow and prepare for next winter.

Domestic dogs have had much of this instinct bred out of them to increase the profits of breeders. Most domestic males will seize any breeding opportunity at any time. They will return to their chosen mate but will not ignore any available female.

This is why you can see packs of male dogs following a single in heat female and breeding her in turn. The upside is that if you are really promiscuous, you can be screwed by as many dogs as you can find.

The downside is that it creates something not seen in nature, the professional stud dog. This dog is the breeders ideal. He will try to breed every female that he sees whether she is willing or not. He will sometimes injure his target but as long as the injuries are not severe enough to interfere with her duties as a brood bitch, they are acceptable.

The opposite of an ideal mate is a pro stud that hasn't been socialized. Keep in mind that this describes many strays. They just work for themselves, not a human master. These dogs are most common among the strong willed or "dominant" breeds.

Remember that what you are doing is giving your body to a powerful carnivore to use as he pleases. When you have a 150 lb Rottweiler on your back with his jaws against your neck, all of the choices are his. He is going to leave there satisfied. Count on it. You may leave there impressed with his tender use of raw power or you may leave bloody and bruised. Either way, the choice is his, not yours.

So I strongly suggest that you know and understand any dog that you are considering for a sexual partner. Because you lack the dog system of scent, you will have to have enough communication to tell him that you are sexually available.

With practice, you will be able to say this to any dog in a few minutes. What you must be aware of is that if you say this to a pro stud dog without a proper mental map of humans and human limitations, he will treat you as a canine bitch. That means getting his sperm in you is the only consideration and he will not stop trying until he is successful or one of you is incapacitated.



Some tips :

NEVER, EVER pull on his tail. If you have to hold on, grab a leg.

Start small and work up. A 50 lb dog is sexually equivalent to a 200 lb human.

DO NOT handle a dog's bare penis. It is so sensitive that the fingerprint ridges on your hands are abrasive to him.

Be careful not to "help" him too much or he will expect you to do all the work from now on.

Long coated dogs will last longer and be more active in cold weather (natural or artificial).

Remember that you dish in where bitches bulge out. Stay a little lower or to one side of him while tied so you don't trap and squeeze his nuts between you when he is turned.

Security is important to dogs too. Do not be surprised if he doesn't immediately want to perform in a strange place, with strange people, or with other dogs around.

Pet him and praise him during and after the act. Dogs have an ego too.

Use any lube that suits you when stretching. J-Lube is my favorite. Use only water based lubes without additives or spit when he is involved.

DO NOT get excited if he pulls his knot out and you feel wind blowing inside your ass. While it is possible to tear something, this only happens if you manage to do something spectacularly stupid and difficult. A little judgment and preplanning will go a long way. Even if you make a mistake, you will stretch a LOT before you tear. And it may take some time for the stretched muscles to return to normal,but you will return to normal. Stories of dribbling shit for the rest of your life are just that, stories.


Some myths :

He will NOT jam his fully erect and knotted penis into you. First, he won't get fully erect unless he gets stimulation to the base of his penis. Second, the head and shaft of his penis will be large and flexible making entry nearly impossible.

He will have no interest at all in human style blow jobs. Dogs like pressure, not friction. If you have removable teeth and a tracheotomy, you could let him face fuck you. Any less preparation could be harmful to at least one of you. After he has finished humping you can suck on him but it must be done with extreme care.

He will not come back over and over. After 30 minutes of sustained orgasm, he WILL need a nap. About four hours seem to be the standard minimum.




I have studied the dog in theory and in the flesh for the last 40 plus years. I have tested many ideas and theories by living with dogs both as a dog (within human abilities) and as a human. After standing as bitch for several life mates, a few packs, and some pro studs, I can say with certainty that long term mating is as good as it gets and casual sex among canines is rough and sometimes less than satisfying for the bitch.

This guide is copyright and may be reproduced only in its entirety including attributions.

Caikgoch
 

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Is there a breed you recommend for starters? Say a Labrador or Golden retriever?
Step 1. Make a list of dogs with a body about the same size as yours. If heights and widths match, getting together will be much easier. They'll weigh less than you because they don't tie half of their body mass up in 2 huge legs.

Step 2. From this list, select breeds that match your lifestyle and living situation. Don't take a Malamute to the desert or a Greyhound to Alaska.

Step 3. Go to dog shows and/or breeders and ask questions. Look at examples of the breed you selected to confirm your choice.

Step 4. Go shopping. Get all the things that your new dog will need to be comfortable except for food. Food needs to be fresh.

Step 5. Look everywhere for your dog. You can buy a puppy from a breeder but you will have puppy problems to deal with. You can leave a card with vets and funeral homes to find an adult (survivor dog).

TL;DR, It's more important to have a dog that is happy than to have a specific breed or color.
 
Hi, I have an American pitbull who's been neutered. I've been patient with him before and even waved my rear around letting him sniff it and lick it out but he never tries to hump it. However, when he's around my female puppy he tries to hump her all the time because he can smell her hormones. Is there a way I can get him interested in me? Before he was neutered I'd always give him blowjobs and he loved it, and was, like you said, more ready for sex than I was.
 
Hi, I have an American pitbull who's been neutered. I've been patient with him before and even waved my rear around letting him sniff it and lick it out but he never tries to hump it. However, when he's around my female puppy he tries to hump her all the time because he can smell her hormones. Is there a way I can get him interested in me? Before he was neutered I'd always give him blowjobs and he loved it, and was, like you said, more ready for sex than I was.
The strongest stimulus for dogs is scent. You can link your scent to sex for him but the time to do that was before he was neutered. Now, all you can do is repeat until he gets the idea or makes it clear that he's given up.
 
So 2 questions then. First off, great danes are the dog breed that most matches my personality and interests. I'm a lazy person who loves large dogs and is obsessed with cuddles. Wich is well a great dane really. Yes I know at least 2 good walks a day! No problem I walk like 10 miles everyday anyways and that's just at work. However I'm 135lbs and I'm 6'1 am I 2 small for a dane? Last thing I want is to cause one injury!

Also how does one teach them when you are in the mood? This isnt exactly something covered in obedience school and the very last thing I want is my best friend to be over and suddenly get tacked by a 200lb dog trying to take my pants off. To be properly educated in this aspect is far to vital to ignore. If anyone has knowledge please share with me:)
 
How to receive Anal Sex from Male Dogs
(All of the parts about dogs apply to vaginal sex also.)


Intro :

Dogs are not like humans. They have their own unique and wonderful system. DO NOT try to judge them by your own standards and feelings.

Male dogs are used to waiting for sex. A Bitch might be ready to breed every 9 months to a year. (don't forget to allow time for raising a litter if you are speaking of a breeding Bitch)

And for exactly that reason they are serious about never missing a chance for sex. Once a male dog realizes that sex is possible, he may become very excited. That excitement may lead to clawing or even biting so consider using a heavy shirt or similar protection at least until you are comfortable with each other. Dew claws can be particularly painful. Socks on the dog can remedy that.

Strongly dominant dogs may also "take charge" quite forcefully. The Bitch has a nerve complex in the back of her neck that will paralyze her when activated. This the same mechanism that you see in puppies when they are carried by the scruff of their neck. So some male dogs will bite that nerve complex to insure her co-operation. He might even approach her submissively and groom her until he can get that bite. And yes, he may use those same tactics on you.

Male dogs are sometimes quite vocal communicating their desires to you. You may hear anything from a low rumble to a full throated bark in your ear. Do not assume he is bluffing. He will not do any damage to his mate that might interfere with her bearing his puppies but he may leave marks that are hard to explain.

Tease, play, and ask. Do not try to force anything. You can always try again, unless you hurt him. If he gets pain out of it, he will not want to try again for a long time. Do not assume that you are what he wants or that the time is exactly right. For example, heavy coated northern breeds tend to lose interest in the hot summer months. Others may have their own reasons.



The Dog :

The ideal dog will have a body about the same size as yours or a little larger. A dog so sized will weigh less than you because he doesn't have so much of his mass invested in two big legs. You will fit together better if you are about the same build (thick vs thin) and he will be able to hold on to you without difficulty.

He will perform a LOT better if he still has his nuts but they are not absolutely required.

The younger you get him and the more time you spend with him, the happier you will be. A dog that is happy, healthy, and confident will make a wonderful lover. Dogs are hardwired to bond with their family, natural or adopted, and they will use their amazing senses to make their family members as happy as they can be.

There are a broad range of temperaments available. If he's too young for a clear understanding, check out his parents. Don't worry about "horny breeds". Once he is understanding that you can give him regular orgasms, you will find that he has more time for sex than you do. Pick a dog that you will be happy with the other 99% of the time.

The sexual experience will be much less painful for both of you if you wait until he is mature. That means a year for smaller dogs up to two years for giant breeds. Humping is a reflex that can be triggered almost from birth but libido and co-ordination won't come until much later.



The Dog's Equipment :

The male dog has a bone in his penis. It attached to erectile tissue at its base and otherwise floats within his penis.

He keeps his penis in a sheath made of common skin on his belly.

When he becomes excited, his erection begins in the tissue connecting this bone to his pelvis causing his penis to lengthen slightly and angle downward / away from his body. This is what is called "showing pink".

He will mount (place his chest over his mate's hips and grasp her with his front legs) and probe with the exposed tip of his penis. Sometime during this process he will begin to ejaculate. Note that this is precum intended to cleanse his urethra and lubricate his target.

When he feels the tip of his penis enter a warm wet hole, he will thrust strongly arching his back and spreading his thighs outward. The act of spreading his thighs pulls the skin on his belly back bringing his sheath with it and exposing the rest of his penis as it slides into his target.

At this point his penis is still very small and slick so it will slide all the way in easily. When he feels a vulva (or other ring of muscle) around the base of his penis, he will thrust strongly and rapidly. The part of his penis commonly called the "knot" will swell quickly just inside that ring of muscle. Unlike humans, he wants his stimulation at the base of his penis. The feel of that ring of muscle is what turns him on.

His knot will swell until it locks in place and cannot be pulled back out the hole. Ideally, it will stretch the tissue around it and further thrusting will simply move the organ containing it.

He may continue short thrusts for a bit or step from side to side but he will soon stop thrusting altogether. At this point the rest of his penis will swell until it is several times its normal size completing the erection process.

His sperm will have flowed for the first time by now. The exact moment varies and can be repeated several times if he is stimulated correctly. The non sperm part of his ejaculation will continue as long as he is erect with a steady pulse . . . pulse . . . pulse rhythm. Sperm flow can be distinguished by faster and harder pulse of several seconds duration.

Almost all of his ejaculate will be a clear to slightly cloudy liquid of watery consistency. His sperm will be white and only slightly thicker.

Average tie time for dogs is 20 to 30 minutes. 15 minutes is a kinda minimum and I have observed 90 minutes. Your actual time will depend on how comfortable he is and how well you stimulate him. Most dogs like an active bitch that seems to enjoy what they are doing.

His penis is also mounted on a "hinge". He can (and many dogs seem to prefer to) turn it completely backward.



Before :

First, you should be VERY certain that you are in a secure location with plenty of time. Raw naked outdoor animal sex is as good as it gets but you must be very certain neighbor kids or low flying aircraft are not going to happen upon you while you are tied and defenseless. Nighttime seriously improves your odds as do fences. A locked door is your best option. Having a bathroom behind the locked door with you is ideal. You will get very messy. A towel and fresh clothes is a minimum.

Second, you must be personally ready. Unless you are VERY experienced with anal sex, you should thoroughly empty yourself by means of an enema. DO NOT underestimate the importance of this step! When his knot stretches your rectum, your body will respond with a reflex to void your entire lower intestinal tract. As you gain experience, you will learn to override this reflex much the way the gag reflex must be controlled for oral sex.

Also, unless you are aware of your personal internal dimensions from experience, measure the dog then measure yourself. Remember that he will not get his full length until AFTER he is tied. If required you can increase your personal depth by stretching over time with a long toy. DO NOT just assume a large dog will fit. He may grow to over 14 inches (35 cm) long. If you don't have that much room, he will feel pain and pull until he relieves that pain.

There are two choices possible when dealing with the knot. You can accommodate a lot more internally than can pass through your sphincter. If you can push something half the diameter of his knot in, he can pull it out without doing serious damage (it will hurt though). By not stretching out to his full size you keep it much easier to hold his knot. Or you can stretch yourself until his knot can easily be released whenever you desire. This will require more effort on your part both during the stretching and when you must tighten up to keep him in but you will be able to break tie easily in an emergency.

The choice is your's and in any case not permanent. If you stop stretching, your body will slowly return to its previous shape.

More important than stretching is strength training. Kegel Exercises work wonders. You want a large STRONG muscle, not a thin stretched out muscle. Practice holding things against a pull. At the same time, you can work on controlling the void reflex.

DO NOT over lube. The largest dog that I have met (a St Bernard with a 5 inch, 12 cm, in diameter knot), goes in about an inch, 2.5 cm, across. Because dogs make full penetration while only about 10% erect, lack of depth is the most common impediment. Dogs are interested in slippery friction only during the first minute or two of the act. Mostly they want pressure or squeezing. Lube will make it much harder to hold on to his knot.

If you have no experience at all with dogs, you may want to masturbate him and sample his ejaculate. Taste a small amount of it or apply it to your skin to test for an allergic reaction.



The Act :

When you are in position and prepared to receive a male dog, you are "standing" for him. An experienced stud dog will recognize the stance and attitude and will quickly take advantage of it. A dog with his regular partner can often tie in seconds.

You may also enhance his libido by teasing and playing with him. Some dogs (particularly the "Wolfish" breeds) enjoy a good chase. Many will want to feel like they have "taken" you in a contest.

Overly aggressive behavior on your part can turn some dogs off. After all, he has spent his whole life being told that aggression towards humans or even jumping on them is wrong. Make sure that he understands that it is mock combat or play behavior.

You can also mount and dry hump him. This seriously excites some dogs.

When he comes at you excitedly, crouch and turn your butt to him. If he is inexperienced, you can masturbate him just enough to obtain some precum and rub it where you want him to notice. Having a Bitch in full heat near enough to smell but not in the same room may also help with inexperienced dogs.

When he mounts, it is your job to put yourself in the correct place for him to penetrate. Move your butt as needed to put his target at the spot his penis is probing. If needed, put a hand back there and guide him in.

Do not be surprised if a young, inexperienced dog takes numerous tries to achieve penetration. Sometimes they get so excited that they will fall off or launch themselves completely over your body. Near misses can also be quite painful as all you will feel at this stage is his rather narrow bone.

When he hits his mark, he will put everything in in one fast stroke. You may feel his nuts swing up between your legs. He may also get an inch or 2 of sheath into you. The short hairs will add some interesting stimulation.

Once he gets it in, you may lower your shoulders so that he slides down your back and gravity helps him keep it in. Tighten your muscles around his penis and hold him as hard as you can. If he doesn't feel a tight ring behind his knot, he may loose interest.



During :

Some male dogs will maintain their grip on you for the duration of their orgasm. These dogs may also insist quite forcefully that you do not move.

Others will immediately dismount and turn butt to butt with you. Anything in between or combinations are possible. You have to learn what satisfies your dog for yourself.

You do have an excellent instrument to measure his satisfaction embedded in you. When he is not happy, his knot will shrink leading to an early withdrawal. When he is extra happy, his knot will pulse strongly.

Some dogs seem to enjoy a certain amount of pulling on their penis. If you have sufficient strength to hold him during this pulling, it can be great fun to drag each other about. Otherwise, you should have a pre-arranged "blind alley" to aim him down. This would be something like a narrow space bounded by a room corner and a piece of furniture. Just steer him there if he pulls too much.

You may also squeeze his knot and hump against him to satisfy this need. As you become more experienced and comfortable, you may also want to try laying him down.

To lay him down you let him dismount then stop when he is at a right angle to your body. Grasp one hind leg in each hand with one over and one under your body. Pull him against you so he can't pull out then rotate backwards until you are in a sitting position with him on his back under you. Take care not to put a lot of weight on him.

Most dogs will "lock up" by 10 minutes into the tie. If you are doing it right, they are lost in such orgasmic bliss that they are barely aware of anything. This condition can last until one of you falls out from exhaustion.

Experiment. You can sense his satisfaction through his knot and the length of time he stays tied. He can sense your excitement and satisfaction even better. Do the things that make each other happy.


Afterward :

Retain all of his essence that you can. Aside from the emotional kick of having his living tissue in you, the testosterone is pretty nice too.

Clean up all external skin. He may help you or vice versa. Canine ejaculate is mildly astringent. Left on sensitive skin, it will cause a mild burn or rash. Overexposure (like pulling a pack) can leave you swollen and sensitive internally but only a true (and super rare) allergic reaction is any danger.

Clean the area thoroughly (unless you are outdoors). The smell will be strong if you don't.

Other male dogs will smell the sex on you for up to a couple of days. Some of them will demand their turn. This is extra helpful if you have an inexperienced dog and any access to an experienced dog.


The emotional life of male dogs :

After you have done it a few times with a given dog you will probably notice a change in him. It is normal for dogs to protect their mate and that may even include from other males. Most dogs will socialize with their mate and prefer to remain with them as much as possible. He will be confused if you don't let him sleep with you.

A Bitch in heat anywhere upwind may give his libido an extra boost. About 4 hours is the minimum recovery time for dog. Even without any external stimulation, he will start soliciting you by the second day. You will need to have a clear policy on this and a clear set of signals.

I have personally had dogs that went from obedience champs to clothes ripping sex maniacs at the dropping of a simple signal. They really like sex and a partner that never goes out of heat is a dog's idea of heaven. You just need to make it clear and obvious when sex is wanted and when it isn't. Then NEVER EVER break your own rules.

It is OK for him to ask politely. But if you let him take sex without a clear negotiation and consent from you, he will soon own you. And remember that he sees nothing at all wrong with getting some in the front yard in clear view of all the neighbors.

If you do it right there will be a clear passing of control to him that only happens at a time and place of your choosing. You may or may not be able to take control back before he knots in you but once his knot has formed, his reflexes are in control of both of you for the duration.

In their wholly natural state, IE Wolves, male canines join a pack or form one. After a time with that pack from months to years they may get the chance to breed. This means that a male dog gets to know his mate before sex is even possible. Matings are long term (usually for life) and monogamous.

This works well for dogs in human society also. They join a mixed dog / human pack and wait patiently for their chance to breed. A properly imprinted / socialized dog can be an ideal loving faithful mate. The more you use this instinctual pattern, the happier you will be.

On the other hand, humans have altered this pattern somewhat. Wolves will only breed in the early winter. This makes sense for them because it allows the young pups to leave the den just as spring dawns and have a whole summer to grow and prepare for next winter.

Domestic dogs have had much of this instinct bred out of them to increase the profits of breeders. Most domestic males will seize any breeding opportunity at any time. They will return to their chosen mate but will not ignore any available female.

This is why you can see packs of male dogs following a single in heat female and breeding her in turn. The upside is that if you are really promiscuous, you can be screwed by as many dogs as you can find.

The downside is that it creates something not seen in nature, the professional stud dog. This dog is the breeders ideal. He will try to breed every female that he sees whether she is willing or not. He will sometimes injure his target but as long as the injuries are not severe enough to interfere with her duties as a brood bitch, they are acceptable.

The opposite of an ideal mate is a pro stud that hasn't been socialized. Keep in mind that this describes many strays. They just work for themselves, not a human master. These dogs are most common among the strong willed or "dominant" breeds.

Remember that what you are doing is giving your body to a powerful carnivore to use as he pleases. When you have a 150 lb Rottweiler on your back with his jaws against your neck, all of the choices are his. He is going to leave there satisfied. Count on it. You may leave there impressed with his tender use of raw power or you may leave bloody and bruised. Either way, the choice is his, not yours.

So I strongly suggest that you know and understand any dog that you are considering for a sexual partner. Because you lack the dog system of scent, you will have to have enough communication to tell him that you are sexually available.

With practice, you will be able to say this to any dog in a few minutes. What you must be aware of is that if you say this to a pro stud dog without a proper mental map of humans and human limitations, he will treat you as a canine bitch. That means getting his sperm in you is the only consideration and he will not stop trying until he is successful or one of you is incapacitated.



Some tips :

NEVER, EVER pull on his tail. If you have to hold on, grab a leg.

Start small and work up. A 50 lb dog is sexually equivalent to a 200 lb human.

DO NOT handle a dog's bare penis. It is so sensitive that the fingerprint ridges on your hands are abrasive to him.

Be careful not to "help" him too much or he will expect you to do all the work from now on.

Long coated dogs will last longer and be more active in cold weather (natural or artificial).

Remember that you dish in where bitches bulge out. Stay a little lower or to one side of him while tied so you don't trap and squeeze his nuts between you when he is turned.

Security is important to dogs too. Do not be surprised if he doesn't immediately want to perform in a strange place, with strange people, or with other dogs around.

Pet him and praise him during and after the act. Dogs have an ego too.

Use any lube that suits you when stretching. J-Lube is my favorite. Use only water based lubes without additives or spit when he is involved.

DO NOT get excited if he pulls his knot out and you feel wind blowing inside your ass. While it is possible to tear something, this only happens if you manage to do something spectacularly stupid and difficult. A little judgment and preplanning will go a long way. Even if you make a mistake, you will stretch a LOT before you tear. And it may take some time for the stretched muscles to return to normal,but you will return to normal. Stories of dribbling shit for the rest of your life are just that, stories.


Some myths :

He will NOT jam his fully erect and knotted penis into you. First, he won't get fully erect unless he gets stimulation to the base of his penis. Second, the head and shaft of his penis will be large and flexible making entry nearly impossible.

He will have no interest at all in human style blow jobs. Dogs like pressure, not friction. If you have removable teeth and a tracheotomy, you could let him face fuck you. Any less preparation could be harmful to at least one of you. After he has finished humping you can suck on him but it must be done with extreme care.

He will not come back over and over. After 30 minutes of sustained orgasm, he WILL need a nap. About four hours seem to be the standard minimum.




I have studied the dog in theory and in the flesh for the last 40 plus years. I have tested many ideas and theories by living with dogs both as a dog (within human abilities) and as a human. After standing as bitch for several life mates, a few packs, and some pro studs, I can say with certainty that long term mating is as good as it gets and casual sex among canines is rough and sometimes less than satisfying for the bitch.

This guide is copyright and may be reproduced only in its entirety including attributions.

Caikgoch


Very informative hope any admin moderator
Can use this at the top of the forum
 
So 2 questions then. First off, great danes are the dog breed that most matches my personality and interests. I'm a lazy person who loves large dogs and is obsessed with cuddles. Wich is well a great dane really. Yes I know at least 2 good walks a day! No problem I walk like 10 miles everyday anyways and that's just at work. However I'm 135lbs and I'm 6'1 am I 2 small for a dane? Last thing I want is to cause one injury!

Also how does one teach them when you are in the mood? This isnt exactly something covered in obedience school and the very last thing I want is my best friend to be over and suddenly get tacked by a 200lb dog trying to take my pants off. To be properly educated in this aspect is far to vital to ignore. If anyone has knowledge please share with me:)
You've never explicitly stated but I think you are interested in vaginal. Length wise, it's borderline however, you can stretch to improve your chances. Anyone can do anal but that will require even more preparatory stretching. It might be better to start with an extra small Dane or smaller breed.

All you need for safety is good communication. Sex only in a specific private room when specific clothing (or lack thereof) is worn. Just *NEVER* let him take sex against your will.
 
So much good information! Thanks! It will help for my first time I’m sure :)
“he will treat you as a canine bitch. That means getting his sperm in you is the only consideration”
and this statement is pretty hot! but I guess after having their way, that is what I should expect :)
 
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So much good information! Thanks! It will help for my first time I’m sure :)
“he will treat you as a canine bitch. That means getting his sperm in you is the only consideration”
and this statement is pretty hot! but I guess after having their way, that is what I should expect :)
Ikr! I cant deny I was rather happy to read the part were he might bite your neck, oh my I hope that happens -proceeds to fan myself, is it a little warm in here?-
 
I do hope i don’t get bit...but imagining my dog seeing me as his bitch...kinda hot :)
Haha I understand ya, fortunately those that know me they'd just assume I got drunk at a bar and a weirdo brought me home with him. So no awkward conversations!

Oh super hot! Especiwlly if you have him trained on liks the whole signaled things so you arnt mercy to his whims.
 
Near misses can also be quite painful as all you will feel at this stage is his rather narrow bone.

I can relate to this bit! I've not gone any further due to two "near misses" being intensely painful... doubled up on the ground and very much turned off. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? My male GSD is very, very enthusiastic once he realises the opportunity, thrusting strongly while searching. It's made me gun shy.
 
I can relate to this bit! I've not gone any further due to two "near misses" being intensely painful... doubled up on the ground and very much turned off. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? My male GSD is very, very enthusiastic once he realises the opportunity, thrusting strongly while searching. It's made me gun shy.
He will get better as he gains experience. It hurts him too.

You can give him a hand job to take some of the edge off him or you can use a hand to guide him in. . . or both.
 
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