K
Knight’n Game
Guest
Anyone know how to make some animal toys from stuff I can find around the house? I’ve tried the balloon thing. (Basically inflate a balloon inside you) It felt good.
K
Knight’n Game
Guest
Thank you!
Also, if you've got a bit of time and money to invest, working with silicone really isn't that hard. You'll need a few things like a vacuum chamber (~$150), some platinum cure silicone (always use platinum cure for sex toys, this type does not off-gas over time) resin that usually comes in 2 parts and of a durometer (a measure of hard or softness or rubbers, silicone, and polyurethanes) you'd like, a mold (clay, 3d printing, something...), and mold release spray.
It takes a bit of practice to find a method that works for you. When I gave it a shot I 3D printed a shape, used the "paint on" method to create a reverse mold, waited for that to cure, then applied mold release to the reverse mold and poured my final product silicone resin into that. There are a lot of ways you could go about it, so you just have to experiment to find a method that works for you.
It takes a bit of practice to find a method that works for you. When I gave it a shot I 3D printed a shape, used the "paint on" method to create a reverse mold, waited for that to cure, then applied mold release to the reverse mold and poured my final product silicone resin into that. There are a lot of ways you could go about it, so you just have to experiment to find a method that works for you.
spikedragon
Tourist
Do you know some shops for the silicone? Europe preferably?
K
Knight’n Game
Guest
I h
i have a 3D printer pen. Would that work?
I don't know of any suppliers in Europe, but I believe I purchased most of my silicone resin based materials from a place called Brick In The Yard Mold Supply. I'm sure you can find European companies that supply the same products. If I remember correctly (this was awhile ago) I used mostly stuff called Platsil. It comes in many varieties based on the durometer you desire. After 3D printing a shape I'd basically use disposable brushes to paint on a layer of "Platsil Gel 10" (10 is the durometer number) for the first coat. This was liquid enough to paint on and sink into any cracks or crevasse without bubbles. After that I would paint on another layer or two of a higher durometer silicone, this would give the reverse mold more structural integrity. Once this was cured and removed from the original 3d printed shape you'd have a reverse mold that'd be ready to pour the actual toy with. I used silicone-silicone molds (silicone for both the reverse and actual toy) so you'll need a silicone release spray. Silicone basically doesn't stick to anything but itself so a release is 100% required, or you'll just end up with a huge chunk of it. It took a few tries to find one that worked but I settled on a product called "Mann Release Technologies - Ease Release 200"
No, in fact I would say most 3D printers are not up to the task. You'll end up with layer lines that will ruin you're final product. I would sand down my 3d printed shapes to make them smoother and then cover them with something called "ZAP Z-Poxy" which just created a smooth surface to work with. Note though that this will result with reduced definition of any small features of the shape you've printed. If you have access to a SLA 3d printer VS. an FDM printer, that'd be the way to go. You can get SLA printers rather cheap now adays, but the resins and other consumables are still fairly expensive, and the build area of consumer models tends to be too small for sex toys. There are commercial rapid prototypting services out there that you can send a 3D model to and they'll print it up on a commercial SLA printer for fairly cheap.
If anyone is interested in giving this a try, I highly recommend watching tutorials about working with molds and silicone on youtube. Its the kind of thing I guarantee you won't get right the first couple of times you do it, but isn't hard once you get the nack of it.
Chaosechse
Tourist
I am currently experimenting with my 3D printer and have made some molds. And I will build it soon in bigger.
Chaosechse
Tourist
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
So Tiny & cute, like sex toys for Vermin,
Chaosechse
Tourist
Do not worry, I'm about to make bigger ones.
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
Oh Hey Hi.. yeah I am a 3D printer Builder/designer (as a hobby).
Nice To sorta meet'cha.
I sorta jumped on the 3D printing bandwagon just over a decade ago. building printers from wood & other native materials.
I mostly deal with FDM types.
Attachments
Wrongkindoflove
Tourist
DarkWolfNL
Tourist
i would do the same as @Bigpaws_Bear if i was able to buy a 3d priter as i want one really bad.
@Wrongkindoflove that looks awesome i should really buy a 2 hole horse fleshlight
now to the question: we have inside a group im in one that clay sculpt a horse dick or horse or really waky ones out of clay, makes a mold and then makes them out the right materials.
@Wrongkindoflove that looks awesome i should really buy a 2 hole horse fleshlight
now to the question: we have inside a group im in one that clay sculpt a horse dick or horse or really waky ones out of clay, makes a mold and then makes them out the right materials.
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
Your Lucky, buying a 3D Printer is WAY cheaper now than when I began. these days you can get into a full size (200mmx200mmx180-200mm) for under $200. when we had to really SEARCH/SOURCE parts in the beginning, that Dollar amount was closer to $500. for a homebuilt machine.
Now China is cranking them out like everything else they mass manufacture. So the price point is as low as I have ever seen it now.
<- smirks, instead of casting a mold, 3D scan it, create a file for it. that way it could be printed direct, without the casting process.
they have a rubber type filament called "NinjaFlex" I have not yet tried it to see how stiff or flexible it would be.
DarkWolfNL
Tourist
really they have that filament? damn i love the future
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
Amazin', ain't it?
tastyknot
Tourist
I really love this so much.
What are you using tpe filament I have a printer right now pretty big plate but need to upgrade to an enclosed environment if I'm going to print tpe
Chaosechse
Tourist
I use PLA and i have the Anycubic Predator. It can print 0.05mm layer height.
And now I have finished the first form for a fleshlight.
Attachments
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
So far I have not seen anything that could FDM print anything like platinum grade silicone. I suspect because it's a semisolid, and would require a different method of feeding the raw materials. Also with Silicone, heating would not really be necessary from the hot-end of the tool, but rather a heated / ventilated environment (enclosure). that's not to say it's not possible, but a different extruder type would surely need to be used.
I see you make your casting mold out of pla and then you fill it in with your Silicone got you I thought you were printing the toys on your build plate
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
One could still use the anchient "lost wax" method that has been used for molds for centuries! First you mold, carve your desired toy in candle wax with all desired details. Make a leak resistant box at least an inch larger than the toy in all directions. Suspend toy in the box and fill with plaster of Paris. Once that has cured remove your mold from the box. Gently heat the mold just warm enough to melt the wax (save it to use again later. Once the was is "lost" carefully cut your mold in half. Once your mold is cut use finishing tools to clean any rough surfaces and reassemble held lightly together with tape, rubber bands etc and fill with your silicone mixture (you can coat the inside of the mold with breaker solution). Once youe silicone has pre cured remove your mold and allow the toy to fully cure. For penetratable toys you will also need a plaster "dick" to mold the interior passage.
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
Not to be pedantic, but that's just making a plaster mold using a wax model.
"Lost wax" casting is also known as investment casting, and is typically used for metals. A wax model is either hand-carved from jeweler's carving wax or (for repeated mass production) cast in a metal (usually machined aluminum) die. Wax figures then have one or more rods attached to them to form what will be the sprues (holes for the cast metal to enter through.) These are then attached to a central rod to form a "tree" that will cast all of these parts at once. The tree then gets dipped in a ceramic slurry, first with a fine one for precise detail definition, and then with layers of coarser material just to bulk up the thickness and give it strength. The slurry-covered form is then fired, which hardens the ceramic and burns out the wax (hence "lost wax") and creates the hollow mold. After casting is done, the outer ceramic shell of the mold is then broken off, leaving only the metal, and the individual pieces are cut free from the tree for final finishing, while the tree itself is recycled for future use. So actual lost wax casting doesn't create a permanent mold, though you could use a plaster mold for duplicating the wax forms used in the investment casting. But if you're not trying to make a metal dildo, it's not an applicable method.
Bigpaws_Bear
Esteemed Citizen of ZV
You should give PETG a try when your building structural components, its on of my favorite materials.